Suggestions for 2014 Track Pack Mustang and Track Days

[texaswrx]

This will be the first year of doing a few schools / track days in this Mustang. All of my experience prior was in two Subaru's (2002 WRX,2008 STi). I am fortunate to be in Texas with MSR Houston 25 minutes away, and several others within a reasonable distance.


My first questions are the basic ones-
Did you change out brake fluid? (have used ATE blue/gold,Amsoil for prior track days)
Pads? Suggestions for Brembo pads?

Thanks for your time and responses. I am really looking forward to getting back out there in 2014.

John
Gratuitous picture time- New

Old, Harris Hills, San Marcos,Tx. Yes, I hit a smurf at some point.

 

[ac427cobra]

The Ford brake fluid is actually pretty good. Just make sure it's fresh. Front brake cooling ducts would be a pretty good idea with any Mustang on track. Make sure you have a good intake on the front of the fascia that scoops ample amounts of air for the ducts. Throw a few extra #'s of air in your tires. You'll be good to go.

You car is fine just like it is with the above attention. Get some good instruction and seat time and go from there.

Good luck.

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[texaswrx]

The Ford brake fluid is actually pretty good. Just make sure it's fresh. Front brake cooling ducts would be a pretty good idea with any Mustang on track. Make sure you have a good intake on the front of the fascia that scoops ample amounts of air for the ducts. Throw a few extra #'s of air in your tires. You'll be good to go.

You car is fine just like it is with the above attention. Get some good instruction and seat time and go from there.

Good luck.

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

Thanks. Vorshlag offers a nice backing plate ready for ducts. I need to see how people are running them on 13/14's (and get under the car and take a look.

 

[darreng505]

Change to DOT4 brake fluid. It's worth the swap. Motul 600 RBF or equivalent.
The boiling point of the stock fluid is too low, so if you upgrade the pads, the fluid becomes the weak link.
It's best to upgrade pads and fluid (so their temp ratings are close) or not at all. Doing one and not the other can sometimes have less effect.

A good street/track pad would be Hawk HP+ but if you are in advanced track group it will be too weak and you should try Hawk HP Blue. If you're looking to set PB lap records then just go to the race pad DTC60. Doesn't get much better from there.

Next mod suggestion would be tires...then springs...then swaybars...Good luck!

 

[modernbeat]

Thanks. Vorshlag offers a nice backing plate ready for ducts. I need to see how people are running them on 13/14's (and get under the car and take a look.

We also make a front duct bracket that goes behind the honeycomb fascia. You have to open up seven of the honeycomb holes on each side.

Here is the prototype.

You have to use a dremel to open up the seven spots with the yellow dots.

They are very difficult to see even if you are looking for them.

And I'm no fan of pads that have a lot of filler material, like Hawk and EBC. They cost too much and have too short a lifespan. The Carbotech pads are a good middle step between cost and life and the PFC and higher end pads cost more, but also last a longer time.

 

[texaswrx]

We also make a front duct bracket that goes behind the honeycomb fascia. You have to open up seven of the honeycomb holes on each side.

Here is the prototype.

You have to use a dremel to open up the seven spots with the yellow dots.

They are very difficult to see even if you are looking for them.

And I'm no fan of pads that have a lot of filler material, like Hawk and EBC. They cost too much and have too short a lifespan. The Carbotech pads are a good middle step between cost and life and the PFC and higher end pads cost more, but also last a longer time.

Thanks. Being in Houston, I have wanted to head up to Dallas and get a few items from you folks. The suspension set up you offer for entry level (Bilstein) is one that would fit my budget and not get me exiled by the wife.

 

[wheelhopper]

Those brake duct inlets are awesome. I may have to get some and mod for my Fiesta ST.

OP, sounds like you already have a fair amount of track time. So you already know in general what to expect.

I have instructed in many new Mustangs and even those that had a simple brake upgrade, nothing else, did well. I would go with a fresh bleed of the calipers before the event. The stock fluid will probably work fine. I use Wilwood fluid and while the boiling point may not be as high as other fluid, I bleed out the caliper before each event to keep moisture out of the system. I think that would work just fine with the stock fluid. I would recommend brake ducts and HP+ pads will probably work fine. If they don't just go to the DTC 60's.

 

[jg61354]

I have a 2014 my first track day I boiled the fluid, changed to the Motul 600. After my third event I changed to the dtc60's - very noticable difference. I'm now running Hankook Rs3's. Like my sig says 2400 miles 1900 on tracks - more fun than should be allowed.

 

[darreng505]

I have a 2014 my first track day I boiled the fluid, changed to the Motul 600. After my third event I changed to the dtc60's - very noticable difference. I'm now running Hankook Rs3's. Like my sig says 2400 miles 1900 on tracks - more fun than should be allowed.

^^^ This.

 

[dmichaels]

Great looking car first off!

I would highly recommend brake cooling ducts, pads, and fluid if the track is a quick one. I got significant brake fade with Pagid RST-2's up front and Motul RBF600 fluid (without cooling ducts) on my first time out with this car. It was at Watkins Glen which is a fast track with a couple heavy braking zones, but its a heavy car that carries a lot of speed...

I pieced together my brake cooling kit and it has worked very well!

Brake Cooling DIY

Otherwise, the track pack has been fantastic. I logged coolant temps (in July) and they were consistent over 30 minute sessions (103C max). No engine codes, no real shifting issues for me, although 5-4 shift can be a bit finicky. Stock tires stick pretty well, and I recommend the "sport mode" for traction control setting, especially if you're used to AWD. I came from a B5 S4 and I was very used to just nailing the gas out of any corner and hooking up. Little different with the Mustang, but it's better balanced and much more rewarding to drive quickly.

When will you get the car out?

 

[wheelhopper]

I have a 2014 my first track day I boiled the fluid, changed to the Motul 600. After my third event I changed to the dtc60's - very noticable difference. I'm now running Hankook Rs3's. Like my sig says 2400 miles 1900 on tracks - more fun than should be allowed.

The key phrase in this statement is "my first track day". That could be why your fluid boiled. It is not unusual for track newbs to ride the brake pedal, brake light, brake early and overheat the fluid. Better fluid is never a bad idea, but I still think if you use the brakes correctly the fresh stock fluid will work fine in an HPDE event.

On another note I just remembered that the Coyote motor in the GT's has an oil overheating issue. I would recommend at a minimum to run an extra half quart of oil. Ideally an oil cooler would be good. I know a fellow instructor who blew his motor last Fall due to oil issues.

 

[ac427cobra]

The key phrase in this statement is "my first track day". That could be why your fluid boiled. It is not unusual for track newbs to ride the brake pedal, brake light, brake early and overheat the fluid. Better fluid is never a bad idea, but I still think if you use the brakes correctly the fresh stock fluid will work fine in an HPDE event.

On another note I just remembered that the Coyote motor in the GT's has an oil overheating issue. I would recommend at a minimum to run an extra half quart of oil. Ideally an oil cooler would be good. I know a fellow instructor who blew his motor last Fall due to oil issues.

The brake pedal is a security blanket for noobs. :read::idea:

Get off the brake pedal and learn to gain confidence in your car and driving ability.

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[jg61354]

Agreed - my 1st track day no clue and right on the money about riding the brakes on turn in -as you appropriately stated ( security blanket) After 8 events getting better but a long way to go.

 

[TXPD]

ive been racing on the ATE for a while with excellent results.

 

[texaswrx]

The key phrase in this statement is "my first track day". That could be why your fluid boiled. It is not unusual for track newbs to ride the brake pedal, brake light, brake early and overheat the fluid. Better fluid is never a bad idea, but I still think if you use the brakes correctly the fresh stock fluid will work fine in an HPDE event.

On another note I just remembered that the Coyote motor in the GT's has an oil overheating issue. I would recommend at a minimum to run an extra half quart of oil. Ideally an oil cooler would be good. I know a fellow instructor who blew his motor last Fall due to oil issues.

While something aftermarket is usually better, this is the track pack car with Boss radiator and oil cooler, as well as Torsen real differential.

Thanks for all the responses. Just back from vacation. Looking to get out in February at this time.

op:epper: