Suspension mods

[OH3GT]

Hey members. Need some help, on suspension budget and list for the new year and wondering if I need all or any of these products on the list. I am on the fence on the cc plates. I have read MM (track) and J&M has better adjustable and design...

which cc plates produce less noise!?

what can I cut out and which cc plates to go with!!?

thanks in advance. Got my cart loaded up and ready to edit.


Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates OR J&M CC Caster Camber Plates

Maximum Motorsports Rear Lower Control Arms

Steeda Aluminum Rear Upper Control Arms

Steeda Bumpsteer Kit

Steeda x-2 ball joint

 

[OH3GT]

As far as steering alignment is concerned. Could be better. They subframe connectors helped a ton but need to know if I need any further mods to correct it even more

 

[OH3GT]

So no response

Just views!??

 

[98SaleenSnake]

I would go with mm cc

 

[leony]

the bumpsteer kit is not really that necessary but if you doing it all you might as well juss put the extra money and get it right and do the alignment just once. MM camber plates I heard is better but both get the job done

 

[leony]

if you getting new springs, do it now so its all in one shot

 

[Fox-4]

I have MM CC plates. No noise from them in the four years I've owned the car.


Sent from my '79 Fairmont coupe

 

[1hot281]

Hey members. Need some help, on suspension budget and list for the new year and wondering if I need all or any of these products on the list. I am on the fence on the cc plates. I have read MM (track) and J&M has better adjustable and design...

which cc plates produce less noise!?

what can I cut out and which cc plates to go with!!?

thanks in advance. Got my cart loaded up and ready to edit.


Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates OR J&M CC Caster Camber Plates

Maximum Motorsports Rear Lower Control Arms

Steeda Aluminum Rear Upper Control Arms

Steeda Bumpsteer Kit

Steeda x-2 ball joint

I'd leave out the rear upper control arms and just go panhard bar. Also, the balljoints could be skipped, and do tubular front control arms and front coilover conversion eventually instead.

You could also maybe add solid steering rack bushings, and a solid steering shaft.

 

[OH3GT]

Thanks guys. My mods are

Eibach springs
Tokico shocks n struts

I wish I could have done all at once...

 

[Sr71frk]

You could always buy the parts lil by lil like I am then just do one tear down. It may be easier on me waiting for parts since I'm stationed in Japan.

 

[leony]

I'd leave out the rear upper control arms and just go panhard bar. Also, the balljoints could be skipped, and do tubular front control arms and front coilover conversion eventually instead.

You could also maybe add solid steering rack bushings, and a solid steering shaft.

thats what im eventually going to do as well, I didnt suggest that cuz its more of preference, I bought the steeda ball joints and I have them sitting on my closet for this reason.. Ima go with mm tubular arms, maybe a k-member swap and a coil over kit

I would work on the front suspension then move to rear

 

[spike_africa]

My personal opionion is that all boxed non adjustable lowers are the same. Get the cheapest ones you can find. I have inexpensive Lakewood lowers and they have held up for years. I was hesitent to get the MM caster camber plates because of the high cost. They are worth it, as they are quiet just like they should be.

 

[OH3GT]

My personal opionion is that all boxed non adjustable lowers are the same. Get the cheapest ones you can find. I have inexpensive Lakewood lowers and they have held up for years. I was hesitent to get the MM caster camber plates because of the high cost. They are worth it, as they are quiet just like they should be.

Thanks thanks

now for sway bar... should I go for the Eibach package front/rear? Or just get sr or steeda front? My front bushing is worn

 

[OH3GT]

J&M or Lakewood rear upper control arms.. both seemsafe. J&M have lifetime warranty on bushings...

 

[blacksheep-1]

IMO use the Steeda 2x ball joints to fix the roll center on the front of the car and you can leave the camber/caster plates alone.
Oh yeah and a bump steer kit
also don't mess wit the upper control arms on the triangulated 4 link, and don't bother with a panhard bar, unless you really like suspension bind and snap oversteer,then do both

 

[OH3GT]

IMO use the Steeda 2x ball joints to fix the roll center on the front of the car and you can leave the camber/caster plates alone.
Oh yeah and a bump steer kit
also don't mess wit the upper control arms on the triangulated 4 link, and don't bother with a panhard bar, unless you really like suspension bind and snap oversteer,then do both

LOTS of different opinions... :shrug:

looks like upper control arms are not needed and lower control arms are..

I just want to build the suspension of the car to handle the upcoming power build I am planning.

right now cart is
eibach anti roll sway bar kit

I will get the other items at a later time when I do the power build stage.

 

[OH3GT]

Anybody know someone I could PM to get a coupon code for American Muscle shop!? jw

 

[blacksheep-1]

LOTS of different opinions...

looks like upper control arms are not needed and lower control arms are..

I just want to build the suspension of the car to handle the upcoming power build I am planning.

right now cart is
eibach anti roll sway bar kit

I will get the other items at a later time when I do the power build stage.

Well, I have had to run cars using "stock style" suspensions so I have a fair amount of knowledge of them, They are poorly designed (but cheap to manufacture). The first thing everybody does is lower their cars, that great. they look much better but, in the front, the roll center of the vehicle is now about 2 inches lower than the pavement. To fix this, to get the car to handle AT LEAST as good as it did from the factory is to fix the roll center. The way to do this is to replace the front ball joints with the extended ones and of course the bump steer kit that goes with it. This will allow the front alignment to be achieved WITHOUT cc plates. However if you want to add more caster or camber then by all means add the plates, the upper bearing is a good move anyways. As far as the rear suspension goes unless you are willing to rip the whole thing out, go with an IRS, a truck (torque) arm or something else there is precious little you can do and allow the suspension to work. The big issues is that the upper arms are constantly pulling against each other, adding a panhard bar just adds another competing arc. I used to find the "egg" shaped upper bushings and soak them in mineral spirits to degrade them even more. You would HAVE to do this if you use a panhard bar on the stock suspension.
Replacing the lower arms is a much better option and it will force the upper, rubber bushing arms into compliance. (in other words FORCE the suspension to work). Stick with working with the rear sway bars and leave the rest of it alone.