Suspension??

funky10

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I have an 07 GT500 Vert and i want to make it hook. I realize that it might cause excess body flex but i have been beaten out of the hole by an 06 Vette vert that is owned by a buddy of mine. I have been looking at J&M or BMR upper & Lower UCA's and relocation brackets for the lowers. I would like to hear some opinions on what people got and bang for buck what is the best. Thank you in advance.




Scott.
 

funky10

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Which Steeda parts do you have, adjustable 3rd link with bracket? none adjustable? Tubular LCA's or billet one's? Adjustable pan hard bar? Just some questions. They seem more expensive but if they work i will look into it more. Thankyou for the reply.
 

ON D BIT

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i personally like the griggs torque arm bar design. however md03svt has done less and is hitting 1.4x 60 times with his stock blower!

Great air great traction = Great Times

Napierville dragway montreal canada oct 19th 2008

1.442 / 6.681 / 103.730 / 10.473 / 131.853 temp 46.4 57%H 30.49BP side/head wind 2.4mph 11.18am

1.457 / 6.702 / 104.183 / 10.498 / 131.200 temp 48.2 46%H 30.44BP
side/headwind 4.2mph 1.32pm

Mods 07 GT500 coupe race weight 3918lbs 8175 miles CFUXSEHGK
Stock clutch/transmission
Stock un-ported blower/TB
2.6 upper
08 GT500 stock lower
JLT CF intake
AR longtubes w/catted X-Pipe and MBRP axelback
Eibach lowering springs
Aluminum driveshaft w/loop
BMR U/L control arms & mount
4.10 gears w/detroit truetrac
Holeshot drag wheels 15x10 rear & 15x4 fronts
Hoosier 27x4.5x15 fronts & 28x10.5x15 rears
6pt NHRA legal roll-bar
Tuned by Jon Lund
40/60 mix of 94 octane pump gas and C16 race fuel
ted1047oct2008.jpg
 

TexasShelby

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I have an early 07 vert as well. I went with BMR LCAs, Panhard Bar and Steeda springs and have 285/30/20 Nitto INVOs on the rear and it's still not enough with my JLT Stage 1.

I would venture to say, somewhere around a 305 might start giving me the traction I need. But I'm not set up to drag race

I just saw pictures the other day of the relo brackets being bent and torn to pieces, shoving the rear tire all the way forward to hit the front of the rear wheel well. The same as the HD UCA bracket, it stayed in tact and pulled out that piece of the car. So I'm mixed about the relo stuff. And also, do you have the door ding above your right tire on your body?
 

funky10

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I think 305's are the way to go also. My car is totally stock, just trying to make it stick better out of the hole. I read all about the relocation brackets that were bent. It was probably because they were not welded. I do not have the door ding above the right rear tire. I wish someone out there would make a set of sub frame connectors for a convertable already!!!
 

skyhighsd

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Best bang for your buck IMO would be the J&M. I have there adj. UCA and there LCA's zero wheel hop and have had zero issues and I am over 700 rwhp. Cant beat there price from what I remember when I was looking. But I have a small mix between them and BMR on my car either brand and you will not be sorry.
 

rdsnk46

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With 305's gears will be needed due to tire height if you run 20in. wheels! I have box lowers w/relo brkt, upper kit, panhard bar and brace! I have eibach sport line springs which are not the best for drag racing but I like the look.
 

funky10

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With 305's gears will be needed due to tire height if you run 20in. wheels! I have box lowers w/relo brkt, upper kit, panhard bar and brace! I have eibach sport line springs which are not the best for drag racing but I like the look.



I will be putting in a set of 3.73's eventually. I think i have bad enough wheel spin with the stock gears, i dont plan on rims yet. I need to make some more coin!!! LOL!! What kind of lowers do you have? and yes eibach springs do look sweet!!


Thank's guys for your reply, any help in my decision is greatly appreciated.


Scott.
 

funky10

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what is the reference to the door ding?


I think what Tex is getting at is alot of vert's that do get some power to the ground, twist and the weak point is in the back. I have heard of some people getting a ding or small crease on the back right quarter panel, could be the left but it would make sence that it would be on the right due to the engine wanting to turn the car over that way. That is why i hope the genius fabricators out there would build a set of sub frame connectors for a vert. I guess the problem with building sub frame connectors is with the x-brace in the trunk area or something like that. I dont know alot about it just what i read and that was awhile ago.
 
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Stripe Delete

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Spend a little more on billet lowers because you can see them. I would recomend Tokico D-specs for adjustiblity, or just buy the FRPP suspension kit if you can afford it.
Buy drag radials, and yes weld in you relocation brackets.:bored:


I got the flex dent on the pass side at about 16K in my coupe with sub frame connectors. I dont know that you can avoid them.:cuss:
 

me32

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does anyone have a pic of that dent, and what causes it. there has to be a way to prevent it.
 

rdsnk46

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prob slicks....it takes some torque to to that

+1 but these cars have been out since 2005 and I still never heard of anyone doing this. Also the S-197 platform was the first mustang ever designed to be a convertible from origin, unlike previous yrs. where the just braced a prior model.....
 

funky10

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On vert's there was some talk of the style bar being one of the causes but i never really did find out. These engines put out major and there has to be some way to prevent that from happening. I wish they would have used two UCA's to distribute the axel wrap evenly. I am guessing when i think that might be part of the problem.
 
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