Sustained high rpms in a stock motor?

9746Cobra

spinnin4Vs
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In two weeks me and at least two other cobra's will be doing a drivers ed class at Daytona, on the 24 hr rolex course. We can go as fast as we want.

With my 4.10 gears, 5th gear and 6000rpm brings me to about 140 mph. At that point I'll put it in 6th (I'd be at about 4700 rpm then) and avoid any boost.
I have a stock pulley, stock tune, and no cats.

Can the 03 Cobra motor handle cruising at 4700rpm in 6th with no boost?

I plan to run 7qts of what I usually run, motorcraft 5w-30 full synthetic.
 

BlackStripes

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Can the 03 Cobra motor handle cruising at 4700rpm in 6th with no boost?

I honestly doubt you can be cruising @ 140+mph with no boost. I'd assume that driving 3600lbs brick at those speeds needs more than whatever the 4.6 4V N/A puts down.

Said that, man, just do it, i've seen WAY too many stock-ish cobras running at WOT at 140+mph, and usually the only things that produces is a stupid grin on faces... for your posts seems like you are very nervous about tracking your cobra, which is understandable. Let me tell you something, the first time you hit those straights at WOT, you will forget about all your concerns :rolling:... if after your first experience with this car you are still concern, buy a Fox Body.
 

TroyV

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If you are going to be on street rubber, and stock PBR brakes, you will not be hitting 140+ very often if at all, as it will start to take longer and longer to slow that car down as the pads see the real heat. Inspect your brakes closely between sessions. It will not be long before you burn the dust boots to ash.

Start slowly and follow your instructor's direction. The car is easily up to the task, just keep an eye on the gages, and pay attention to the state of your tires and brakes.
 

9746Cobra

spinnin4Vs
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Thanks,

This will be my fourth OT. I've cruised at 130mph in 6th, no boost, but you might be right about 140mph.

I'll have to stay in 5th on the banks, I hear they bog the motor.

I am on stock PBR's, and after this event I'll have to do pads and rotors. I might do the Brembo R's if I could find a deal on them.

9746C
 

99COBRA2881

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I had to go back and read to make sure youre running a full 7 qts, Id be more worried about emptying the sump than anything. Stock pans and high banks dont mix.
 

MachME

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why not jsut change the pads over for the track and put the stock ones back on for street driving
 

9746Cobra

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I thought about that too. Having street rotors and pads and OT rotors and pads.

I should get the cooling hoses too.

9746C
 

Jimmysidecarr

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I thought about that too. Having street rotors and pads and OT rotors and pads.

I should get the cooling hoses too.

9746C


Yes and yes...

and yes...

It will make this hobby
1. more fun
2. more affordable
3. more safe
4. more sustainable

If you are planning on doing a lot of high banks or just a lot of High G corners... a Canton road race pan and tray would be a very good idea.

or an Accusump... or if you have the money ...both.

It won't make you faster but it may save your motor.
 

truebluecobra

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Now for the real question,if the concern is pumping all of the oil up top,what good does the oil pan do ?? Not being a smart a$$ but the canton pan says 7qts and that is maybe a half qt more than stock ?? So it doesn't seem like the volume is being increased, I understand the baffeling and windage tray but if you don't have any oil you don't need baffles ???? I am going to research the Accu-sump and that may be the direction I go....

Any suggested sites for that ??
 

Jimmysidecarr

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Now for the real question,if the concern is pumping all of the oil up top,what good does the oil pan do ?? Not being a smart a$$ but the canton pan says 7qts and that is maybe a half qt more than stock ?? So it doesn't seem like the volume is being increased, I understand the baffeling and windage tray but if you don't have any oil you don't need baffles ???? I am going to research the Accu-sump and that may be the direction I go....

Any suggested sites for that ??

That is a legitimate question...

The volumn actually is increased... if you run only 7 quarts in this pan it may not even touch the stock stick.

The road race pan w/ tray(gaskets and tray lower the pan down a bit also) takes about 8 1/2 quarts to get the oil back to the full marks I marked on my stick.

Due to the trap door baffling... even if lots of oil is pumped up into the heads... the pickup is better able to pick up the oil that is still down stairs.

This mod is important on sticky tire cars, fast driver cars, or any cars that are going to see HIGH Gs for what ever reason... the stock pan isn't the greatest IMHO.




...:beer:
 
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truebluecobra

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Thanks for the input, I really wanted the pan but not unless it increased volume !! Although a little research on the Accusump was interesting and not really any more expensive than the pan..................
 

sleepless

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It isn't the sustained high RPMs that you need to worry about at Daytona, it is the sustained high g's you can achieve.

You need to know how long you will be at the sustained G's for either the pan or the accusump to do you any good. In both cases you're just buying a bit of time if the oil is getting stuck in the heads.

The pan and accusump are only good for short duration high lateral g's.

So, you need to know how long you'll be at those g's that starve the engine, then how much time each extra quart will give you. The accusump's come in different sizes so you need to see if there is one big enough for the oil flow rate into the heads.

You also need to know at what lateral g's the oil starts to pool in the heads.
 
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9746Cobra

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It isn't the sustained high RPMs that you need to worry about at Daytona, it is the sustained high g's you can achieve.

You need to know how long you will be at the sustained G's for either the pan or the accusump to do you any good. In both cases you're just buying a bit of time if the oil is getting stuck in the heads.

The pan and accusump are only good for short duration high lateral g's.

So, you need to know how long you'll be at those g's that starve the engine, then how much time each extra quart will give you. The accusump's come in different sizes so you need to see if there is one big enough for the oil flow rate into the heads.

You also need to know at what lateral g's the oil starts to pool in the heads.


I have no idea. Being on street tires probobly less than .9 g's.

9746C
 

truebluecobra

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It isn't the sustained high RPMs that you need to worry about at Daytona, it is the sustained high g's you can achieve.

You need to know how long you will be at the sustained G's for either the pan or the accusump to do you any good. In both cases you're just buying a bit of time if the oil is getting stuck in the heads.

The pan and accusump are only good for short duration high lateral g's.

So, you need to know how long you'll be at those g's that starve the engine, then how much time each extra quart will give you. The accusump's come in different sizes so you need to see if there is one big enough for the oil flow rate into the heads.

You also need to know at what lateral g's the oil starts to pool in the heads.


Yes this could get very technical.........So here are just a few of the things an old uneducated country boy could think of.............

I have up-graded a few of these motors ( heads,cams and oilpans ) The size of the oil returns in the heads look plenty large enough compared to pushrod Ford motors - back in the good old days we restricted the heck out of oil flow to the heads since we turned them 7800 rpm and the could empty an oilpan pretty qiuckly and the oil return was unable to keep up, even then we still used a 10qt oilpan !!!!!.With the overhead cams oil restriction could be a bad thing since the cams ride in the aluminum heads with no bearings !!

Now about the G-forces on high speed banking,driving counter-clockwise should move the oil to the RH cylinder head correct ?? The big question is how many G's or/and how much banking would it take to become an issue ??

So there are several options to the Accusump oil input to the engine, there is an unused 1/4"npt ( which is smaller than the recomend 1/2 or 3/8 ) plug right next to the oil pressure sending unit on the oil filter adapter - this is probably best since it will feed oil to the entire engine, or there is an oil feed plug on the front and rear of each cylinder head ( was thinking of the LH cylinder head if the oiling at the valvetrain is the issue )

If I went with the accusump I would use 2qt min and 3qt if it could be mounted in the engine compartment, anyway I digress.............:sleeping:

I am searching for the oil flow path in the engine now !!!!!!:bash:
 

gcassidy

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Most guys around here with blowers are running oil separators, and catching a lot of oil.
I have one on mine, but it doesn't seem to make as much difference on a N/A motor.
 

ShelbyGuy

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I'd run 9 quarts for an event at Daytona, but that is only because someone who races there suggested as much...I'd run more than 7 quarts in a 32v mod motor for a track event anyway. But that's me. I'm conservative like that. Having held both in my hands, the 32v heads will hold more than twice the volume of oil as a winzer moder head.

Having walked the track once, that banking is pretty steep.

dsc_119.jpg



I ran at Michigan Speedway once, and the banking was fun. You'll get a ton of speed on it so bring brake pads with you. The higher up on the banking you are allowed to run, the faster you can go...
 
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9746Cobra

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I wouldn't want to run more than 7qts in the Cobra.

Too much oil leads to foaming and the pump only pumps liquids. :nono:

I used to oil change every 3000mi, but now I do every 4,000. I'll have about 2500mi on the 7 qts of motorcraft 5w-30 full synth thats in it now when I get there. (Always motorcraft filters of course)

I'm confident it will be fine.

9746C
 

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