Sustained high rpms in a stock motor?
- Thread starter 9746Cobra
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O.K. here is the best I could come up with on short notice...............
Installed a hobbs 30lb pressure switch at the same location on the factory oil cooler as the oil pressure sender. It appears to work really well since it will flicker when I take off from a dead stop if I let the clutch out to slow bogging the motor down. Also installed a mechanical water temp gauge in the block between cylinders 7 and 8, there is a factory 3/8 pipe plug in the block so worked pretty well also. I have the SCT racer pac so will monitor IAT2's along with voltage and we shall see what happens.................
Installed a hobbs 30lb pressure switch at the same location on the factory oil cooler as the oil pressure sender. It appears to work really well since it will flicker when I take off from a dead stop if I let the clutch out to slow bogging the motor down. Also installed a mechanical water temp gauge in the block between cylinders 7 and 8, there is a factory 3/8 pipe plug in the block so worked pretty well also. I have the SCT racer pac so will monitor IAT2's along with voltage and we shall see what happens.................
OK this might be a bit long but here are a couple of my observations from running Daytona................
Oil pressure light never even flickerd.Had the oil dipstick to the very top of the full mark.Now I only ran 145 mph ( 5K rpm in 5th gear ) in the banking and stayed in the "middle" groove most of the time.
I still have not had my car go into the "limp" mode but think I may have come
close on one session, after 5 laps of pushing the car as hard as I had all day I felt some extra heat coming from under the dash area and quickly looked at my mechanical temp guage and it was at 230.I promtly backed her down a little and ran an easy lap and the temp came back down to the normal 210-215 range so I eased her back up to fairly hard laps again and the temps stayed normal.It seem like the over-heating issue came with the prolonged high speed bankimg runs - if I ran at 130 ish in the banking the temps were fine.
It was my first time on the high banks and I was suprised at how rough the track was, there were 3 very distinct grooves and you sure didn't want to get in between....now I am talking about a stock suspension 03 Cobra.I did borrow a friends trunk with an Cobra R wing on it and in hind sight that may have cuased extra down force that cuased the extra bouncing or roughness.
Just my .02 but it was a blast and will do it again if the chance arises:rockon:
Oil pressure light never even flickerd.Had the oil dipstick to the very top of the full mark.Now I only ran 145 mph ( 5K rpm in 5th gear ) in the banking and stayed in the "middle" groove most of the time.
I still have not had my car go into the "limp" mode but think I may have come
close on one session, after 5 laps of pushing the car as hard as I had all day I felt some extra heat coming from under the dash area and quickly looked at my mechanical temp guage and it was at 230.I promtly backed her down a little and ran an easy lap and the temp came back down to the normal 210-215 range so I eased her back up to fairly hard laps again and the temps stayed normal.It seem like the over-heating issue came with the prolonged high speed bankimg runs - if I ran at 130 ish in the banking the temps were fine.
It was my first time on the high banks and I was suprised at how rough the track was, there were 3 very distinct grooves and you sure didn't want to get in between....now I am talking about a stock suspension 03 Cobra.I did borrow a friends trunk with an Cobra R wing on it and in hind sight that may have cuased extra down force that cuased the extra bouncing or roughness.
Just my .02 but it was a blast and will do it again if the chance arises:rockon:
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Here you go.
http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5894701
For some reason I cant post pictures, I'm guessing it because I'm new around here.
Thats the exact same Accusump I have. I assume you needed additional hoses (length) in order to mount it in the trunk and reach the engine compartment?
Noting to do with when you got suckered into hanging out with us bums. LOL
Just post the raw address with
Looks nice. :thumbsup:
Great post op. I was interested in Daytona as well but after reading this I am just not ready. One of the more informative post I have read
Thanks to all
Thanks to all
Back from Daytona!
Great fun of course!
Early on I'd criuse on oval in 5th between 5000-5300rpm. Later I'd go into 6th and I could criuse at about 130mph with no boost. Spent most time on the oval between 125-135mph. Sure was bumpy!
I always run 7qts of motorcraft 5w-30. The car never ran hot or felt sluggish.
9746C
Great fun of course!
Early on I'd criuse on oval in 5th between 5000-5300rpm. Later I'd go into 6th and I could criuse at about 130mph with no boost. Spent most time on the oval between 125-135mph. Sure was bumpy!
I always run 7qts of motorcraft 5w-30. The car never ran hot or felt sluggish.
9746C
Yeah, we had to make the lines as we went.
Noting to do with when you got suckered into hanging out with us bums. LOL
Just post the raw address withon each end.
Looks nice. :thumbsup:
Cool, thanks.
If you get a chance by all means do it !!!! There is no reason not too !!! The only time I ran warm was driving the car VERY hard for 5-6 laps!! The track was easy on tires and brakes compared to others I have run the biggest difference is how long you could hold the throttle wide open if you really wanted to. At Sebring I run 145 all day long on the back stretch and don't even think about it but the banking just changes things a little - the suspension just seems to be much more important in the banking.But you only run as fast as you feel comfortable and at 135 I was very comfortable all day:rockon:
Remember that the '96 (and maybe '97) Cobras have those mis-marked dipsticks... Combined with the banking/forces pushing the oil to the right side of the pan for extended periods, I might suggest running extra oil (not sure how much though... 9 qts seems like a lot)
Compare the '97 dipstick with the '03. It would be very interesting to compare differences in overall length and where the full marks are. You'll have to state which color O-ring the '97 stick has too, since they kept changing the color when they messed around with the dipstick markings.
Meanwhile, I wouldn't be too worried about the sustained high RPM - Ford has a regular test where they run engines at high load/high RPM for hours and hours on end - that was the durability test that made them revise the crank snout for the 5.4 in the Ford GT. If the Cobra engine passed that test, it'll do just fine for 20 minutes at a time at some kind of track event. Just make sure you're running the right weight oil. The '97 was spec'd for 5W-30, and the '03 was spec'd for 5W-20. A TSB revised the oil recommendation for delers to 5W-20 for the pre-2000 4.6L designs, but you might be better off with the 5W-30 in the protection department.
SoCal94
Compare the '97 dipstick with the '03. It would be very interesting to compare differences in overall length and where the full marks are. You'll have to state which color O-ring the '97 stick has too, since they kept changing the color when they messed around with the dipstick markings.
Meanwhile, I wouldn't be too worried about the sustained high RPM - Ford has a regular test where they run engines at high load/high RPM for hours and hours on end - that was the durability test that made them revise the crank snout for the 5.4 in the Ford GT. If the Cobra engine passed that test, it'll do just fine for 20 minutes at a time at some kind of track event. Just make sure you're running the right weight oil. The '97 was spec'd for 5W-30, and the '03 was spec'd for 5W-20. A TSB revised the oil recommendation for delers to 5W-20 for the pre-2000 4.6L designs, but you might be better off with the 5W-30 in the protection department.
SoCal94
I am using the 5w30 Motorcraft semi-synthetic since I change the oil so often anyway!!
The swap to 5w20 was done for emissions reasons.
Emissions yes, but the switch to 5W-20 oil was mainly to maximize fuel economy.
I run motorcraft full synthetic 5W-30 and change it every 4000 miles. Motorcraft 75-140 full synth. in the rear, Mercon V synthetic blend in the trans, Ford "heavy duty" brake fluid,
still have original power steering fluid and coolant.
9746C
still have original power steering fluid and coolant.
9746C
Exactly what i do. I change my oil every time before an event. I go around 7-8 times to the track, and i drive around 6-7K miles a year.... yup, i change my oil every 900 miles :lol1:
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