T45 clutch

[WutApex]

Time for a new clutch for a mildly modded, mostly street-driven Cobra. Car does see some road course work (200 tread wear), occasional hole shots, and very infrequent trips to the dragstrip on street tires (no drag radials).

Should be a straightforward (single disc) clutch replacement unless I find out the trans needs addressed (in that case, this thread will evolve into built T45 parts vs TkX/T56 swaps)

Couple questions:

1. Is it worth upgrading to a 26-spline input shaft?
-- If so, is it an easy swap out w/o having to get into the trans internals?

2. Looking for a clutch that's not too soft, but nothing that'll be too stiff/chatter during daily driving.
-- Waffling on the McLeod Street Pro vs Super Steet Pro...recommendations? I definitely don't want to over-clutch the car
-- Any other clutches that fit the bill better than a McLeod?

3. Is there any benefit going with a 11" vs 10.5"?...increased clamping power vs increased rotational mass

4. Any other parts needed while I'm there?
-- Clutch
-- Flywheel - likely billet or chromoly
-- T/O bearing - Timkin, Valeo, or Ford Perf
-- Pilot bearing - Timkin, Valeo, or Ford Perf
-- Clutch fork - McLeod or Ford Perf
-- Trans mount - Stifflers, Energy Susp, or Prothane
-- Pivot stud - should I get an adjustable one?
-- Flywheel bolt kit - Ford Perf or ARP
-- Clutch cable kit w/firewall adj - waiting on MM to re-stock

 

[I_like_turtlez]

In for answers

Do they even make clutch forks, bearings etc etc for the T-45 anymore

 

[01yellercobra]

I'm pretty sure all if the 96-04 clutch forks are the same. Ford Performance is usually just rebadged and up priced standard Motorcraft parts. Saying that I'd either go Motorcraft or Timken for bearings.

ARP all way.

It doesn't sound like you need a 26 spline with your driving style. No need for an adjustable pivot ball since you're sticking with a single disc. I would get a new one anyway.

Energy Suspension and Prothane are probably the same part with different names on the box. Just remember you don't want a trans mount that's stiffer than the motor mounts.

I have no experience with those clutches so I'll save that for someone else. I would think the 11" would be good as it gives more grip area and more area to spread heat. But I might be wrong about that.

 

[WutApex]

So one thing I noticed is that all the T45 shops that I’m semi-familiar with sell RAM clutches
D&D, ProMotion, Pro-Force (formerly T45 Source), and Hanlon all carry RAM; some exclusively.

Decent clutch?

Not sure it matters, but was eyeing McLeod since I could get clutch, flywheel, fork, etc from a single company (not sure who makes their t/o and pilot bearings). Maybe this is a non sequitur….
Thoughts?

 

[J.Rovirosa]

I went with an 11" RAM Powergrip and FRPP steel flywheel. Have just started breaking it in, but there's no chatter (4.10's help here) and pedal effort is a bit lighter than with the stock parts that came off it. It's difficult to modulate the pedal from a stop, but I'm chalking that up to not being broken-in and has gotten better even in the handful of miles I've driven it.

 

[crazycarlo]

I went with a Spec stage 2+ on my old 98 cobra. It was full face so No puck style. I loved it. I even put a Spec in my 2015 GT.