I noticed a noise today and found the bushings in the crank pulley are shot . Anyone have any ideas on how or what to replace them with ? I remember a thread a while back but cannot locate it .
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Terminator crank pulley bushings
- Thread starter fast ford brian
- Start date
Not sure if this will help any?
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1050479-Stock-Lower-Cage-Rebuild
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1050479-Stock-Lower-Cage-Rebuild
Yes sir it did ! I wanted to make sure it did come apart before I ruined it . And for what its worth sway bar link bushings for a latemodel jeep fit perfect in the opening . Just gotta drill the hole bigger to fit the studs . Took about 2 hours start to finish and only cost $10 !
I don't post often and honestly was freaking out looking for the thread I needed. My apologies .
It's all good, and moved to the correct section. Just send me a message if your not sure where to put it.
Here are a few pics for the other high mileage Terminator owners . With the cage assembly off the car secure it in a vise with two peices of pipe threw the spokes . Turn the hex bolt counter clock wise to disassemble the cage and pulley . I used some leftover JK Jeep sway bar bushings with the holes drilled out to the size off the studs.
Keep us update on how long those hold up.....
on mine I waited to long and wore the post down to just about snapping and tore up pulley..
I had made new post but 1inch round..and used rubber hose...ive been about 2 yrs now and its still tight..
Will do bud . Hopefully a long time . They are poly and the old rubber one's lasted 11 years .
So the point of the rubber is so the lower pulley has a little give? What about the guys that have welded them? Guess it would be smart to install new rubbers then weld them. Obviously not removeable once thats done. What actually holds the rubber in the hole on the pulley? (I'm deployed and mine is at home in a box)
I'm getting ready to go from a Metco lower to the factory caged one since I'm running a big whipple.
I'm getting ready to go from a Metco lower to the factory caged one since I'm running a big whipple.
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The back side of the hole in the pulley is smaller than the front side, and the bushings are supposed to be a press fit inside the pulley.
This happened to me about a month ago. My car started making a chattering noise and it turned out to be the crank pulley bearing was bad. I got the Metco kit to replace it. No more noise.
Ahh ok gotcha. Think my way ahead will be to replace mine with poly and then weld her together.
Weldings not necessary . It comes apart and goes back together just needs some force to crack the threads . It's actually a cool design because it is rebuildable .
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Scratch that , today while driving it hard the tri-bar unscrewed itself from the hub enough to ruin the threads . Definitely weld the hub to the front after you put it back together !!!! Scared the hell outa me lol . No boost , no alternator .
Damn that bites..I had mine apart after and tri bar was just as tight as 1st time..sure those bushings weren't to wide causing tribar not to completely tighten?
I am pretty sure I messed the threads up taking it apart and as tightened as it felt it wasn't . It's all fixed now after some patient welding and some adult beverages . I have another one to do on my buddies car this weekend and will weld the center on BEFORE putting it back on the car lol .
I messed up threads also when using heat to seperate..I spent about an hour with file till it would screw back together by hand...
I wasn't about to even try to make new threads . I just busted out the grinder and made a jig to hold it square and welded it up . If I ever have to replace the bushings again I will just need a 3/4" drill bit to drill off the weld and start over . I'm just glad you went through this and posted about it !
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