The simplest pulley question ever.

GtownMACH

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Ok, so i vowed to stay away from pullies for my car and just put a little money in it and leave it alone.. but as you know, that didnt last. So basically, i just want a blower pulley and a tune. No lower pulley, no alternator pulley changes, no spark plug changes, no MAF changes, no boost-a-pump, nothing! I just want a good 40-50hp gain the easiest way. I was think a 2.8 or 2.93 pulley, and a tune from HPP. Question is, am i going to need a shorter belt? Also, should i get a 4 piece idler set also? Lastly, will the stock heat exchanger still cool enough w/ the blower spinning that much faster? Sorry these are probably dumb questions that have been posted a thousand times before, but i just havent done much research on the pulley subject and i hate doing searches.
 

TaraFirma

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I have pretty much what I think you are looking for. I modded my cobra in Jan of 03 with a simple 2.8 pulley and an off the shelf tune from UPR. along with the CAI and the shoter belt (yes you will need one with a smaller pulley) that came with the pulley, and colder plugs,I have done nothing to the engine.
You wont NEED a 4 piece idler set, but they look cool. The stock heat exchanger will work Just fine.

Hope this helps you out....Ken
 

mysticsvt

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Yeah..you wont need an idler set unless you WANT to destroy a radiator, lower pulley, get stranded on the side of the road or any other number of things that can happen from those crappy stock idlers. Save yourself from my pain and spend the 150 bucks and replace your idlers. Should have been the first thing you did and yes it happens on stock terminators.
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Here is my thoughts on what you DONT want to do. CAI/4lb lower/2.8 upper/catback/midpipe/idlers/tune. Just like you want to mod now..you will want to mod later. How many times do you want to pay for a tune? These are all basic bolt ons staying in the sotck fuel system area.
 

rw95gt

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go with the billetflow 2.93 pulley and idlers(4pcs). also a good tune. you will need a shorter belt. the stock heat exchanger will be ok.
 

GtownMACH

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so w/ a 2.93, would it be safe to say i would gain maybe 4 psi of boost.. maybe netting 40 more hp to the wheels? Also, would i need colder plugs? If so, which ones? Also, which belt is better, GY gatorback or gates? Both have been around forever i know.
 

mysticsvt

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So you want to pay atleast 500 bucks for a tuner/pulley/tune to gain 40 hp?:dw: Let me explain something to you...the 03/04 Cobra is a GOLDMINE and one that you own and your not diggn:nonono: The engine can handle a buttload of boost like over 20. Stock you are 8 and want 4 giving you 12. At the least...you should go 2.8. But like I said before do the 4lb lower and 2.8 upper and thats still the least amount you should do. The lower is where you will see most of your torque. Its just a waste of car and money to put that huge pulley on top and tune for that small amount of almost unoticeable HP gain when you car can do SOOOOOO much more. Hope you realize this before you waste your money. What is your concern when it comes to a 500rwhp car which ours is capable of with just 3/4 grand?-Shane
 

Iron Fist

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Go with a 2.8 upper if you do not want to do a lower combo, may as well get the most bang for your dollar.
 

grimreefer

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Just a 2.81 upper, catted x pipe, catback, and a filter got me up to the numbers in my sig on a hot, humid Florida summer day (I had belt slip so it needed the snub idler). Its keeping me happy for now, but... :smmon:


edit - and some NGK TR6 plugs.
 
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mysticsvt

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Just a 2.81 upper, catted x pipe, catback, and a filter got me up to the numbers in my sig on a hot, humid Florida summer day (I had belt slip so it needed the snub idler). Its keeping me happy for now, but... :smmon:


edit - and some NGK TR6 plugs.

Your avitar is the SHIZZLE:beer:
 

WDW MKR

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So you want to pay atleast 500 bucks for a tuner/pulley/tune to gain 40 hp?:dw: Let me explain something to you...the 03/04 Cobra is a GOLDMINE and one that you own and your not diggn:nonono: The engine can handle a buttload of boost like over 20. Stock you are 8 and want 4 giving you 12. At the least...you should go 2.8. But like I said before do the 4lb lower and 2.8 upper and thats still the least amount you should do. The lower is where you will see most of your torque. Its just a waste of car and money to put that huge pulley on top and tune for that small amount of almost unoticeable HP gain when you car can do SOOOOOO much more. Hope you realize this before you waste your money. What is your concern when it comes to a 500rwhp car which ours is capable of with just 3/4 grand?-Shane

How in the hell is a 440-475rwhp upper-only Terminator running mid/high-11s for $500-1000 considered a waste? Some people don't want to go all out. And it does not take $3-4K to reach 500rwhp.

The combo you are suggesting will need a BAP, idlers, alternator pulley, and HE/icebox at a minimum. He would also want to port the blower running that much rotor speed.

Adding a lower isn't going to magically add a bunch of torque. You'll see some due to reduced belt slip and possibly lower your peak torque RPM due to mechanical advantage (the lower peak RPM may increase peak torque a minor amount). Most people see a huge torque increase with a lower because they're installing it in addition to the upper that is already on the car. It pushes the blower way past its efficiency range, where only torque can go up an appreciable amount.
 
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mysticsvt

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How in the hell is a 440-475rwhp upper-only Terminator running mid/high-11s for $500-1000 considered a waste? Some people don't want to go all out. And it does not take $3-4K to reach 500rwhp.

The combo you are suggesting will need a BAP, idlers, alternator pulley, and HE/icebox at a minimum. He would also want to port the blower running that much rotor speed.

Adding a lower isn't going to magically add a bunch of torque. You'll see some due to reduced belt slip and possibly lower your peak torque RPM due to mechanical advantage (the lower peak RPM may increase peak torque a minor amount). Most people see a huge torque increase with a lower because they're installing it in addition to the upper that is already on the car. It pushes the blower way past its efficiency range, where only torque can go up an appreciable amount.

The waste is pulley/tuner/tune/dyno time for 40hp. That in your book may not be a waste but in my book is. That leads to mod tune mod tune mod tune instead of a few good mods then tune. Understand?:dw:
If YOU think that a 4lb lower and 2.8 upper is over spinning the supercharger fine..wutever. Maybe he should upper now, later port then lower. Atleast the 2.8 upper with stock lower for now.
3-4 grand...maybe I got screwed but I only made 481rwhp/476rwtq with mid pipe, cat back, ported throttle body, elbow, plenum, tuner, tune, dyno time, plugs, 2.8 upper, 4lb lower, idlers, JLT CAI. Now how much you wanna bet thats OVER 4 grand:dw: Wont say who tuned it...sponsor here:rollseyes
 

WDW MKR

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What's with the tone? I understand what you're saying just fine. Do you understand that one does not have to purchase a tuner and tuning services every single time they change something? Do you understand how MAF-operated vehicles work? Do you realize that even if a modification does require a tweak to the tune, most tuners will do that for free once you're purchased tuning services from them?

I know a 2.8/4# combo overspins the Eaton. Will it make it explode? No. Would it be much more efficient if it was ported? Yes.

Souns like you got ripped on your $4K price tag, but perhaps you paid for labor. I would definitely be disappointed with those number if they weren't on a Mustang Dyno.
 

mysticsvt

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If he gets a 2.8(whatever pulley) it will require a tune, if he gets a ported supercharger, throttle body, elbow it will require a tune. If he gets a lower yet another tune. If he gets the tune change for free after the first tune then thats great. But...most tuners dont just give out dyno time cause you bought a tune. The mod bug has already bit him and when he gets this notice in power it will bite harder as we both know. It just makes sense to do a few tune worthy upgrades at once. :shrug:
 

WDW MKR

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All of those mods will not require a retune when done individually. When he steps up to the MAFia/MAFxtender or BA2400/2800 MAF, then they will need to be retuned.
 

mysticsvt

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All of those mods will not require a retune when done individually. When he steps up to the MAFia/MAFxtender or BA2400/2800 MAF, then they will need to be retuned.

So ur telling me if he does anyone of those he WONT need a tune to go with it?
 

WDW MKR

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So ur telling me if he does anyone of those he WONT need a tune to go with it?

No... I'm saying that once a proper tune is done for the MAF he is running, he won't need a major (dyno) retune until he steps up to a MAFia/MAFxtender, larger MAF (i.e. SCT BA MAF or JLT 110mm), or different intake configuration.

Example... one has a custom dyno tune done for a 2.93 pulley. A retune will not be required for the swap to a 2.8 pulley. It wouldn't even be required for the addition of a 2# lower if the MAF wasn't pegged. However, when the owner stepped up to a ported blower or 4# lower that resulted in a pegged MAF, a MAFia/MAFxtender/BA2400 would be needed and the tune would have to be modified.

**NOTE: it is always good to check your A/F after every modification**
 

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