tick tick tick tick... eaton swapped Mach

Monster Mach

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time to go forged internals.. before a rod goes through your block and u need a new block entirely
 

xXAzureMach1Xx

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I have not done a compression check, not sure how to really. what tools do i need? how is it done? The oil guage on the cluster is dead center and hasnt moved anywhere or even when givingit gas. It only drops when the cars off of course. I meant to grab a stehoscope while i was there but it slipped my mind:bash:.

you get a compression tester and it screws into the spark plug and you turn the motor over and it will read on the gauge. just make sure the motor will not start. As for the oil gauge, it really isnt a gauge. it only takes like 3PSI to make the gauge work. the gauge will never really move lol. So if the oil pressure is low you would never know until the pump stops.
 

xXAzureMach1Xx

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what like pistons and rods?

Yep. you can do it kind of cheap to, well for a forged bottom end. If the car is a 5 speed then you have a forged crank stock but if it is a rod knocking then the crank may not be any good. either way get a stock mach 5 speed crank or a 03 04 crank and stock 03 04 cobra rods and a good set of pistons and roll out. if you plan to go over 700hp then i would look into a different block. teksid block or the new 3V block they say are pretty strong.
 

gamatt

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If you drain the oil yourself, you can run a magnet through the oil and see if there are shavings from the bearing(s). From the sound of it, they will be there.
 

buckinwild

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Not really sure, I heard 2 different sounds in vids and some of them I heard nothing at all. I've heard rod knock before it sounded like someone hitting the block with a hammer, kinda like what vid #6 sounded like but then wasn't as noticeable in other vids. Dunno what a bad cam follower would sound like but I had an experience with a loose rocker arm before and it sounded similar to this also. IDK, hope for the best but be ready for the worst as the saying goes.
 

boltonmach1

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How long did you drive it before you got it tuned and after you got it tuned until now?

Pretty much everybody knows these rods can only handle so much abuse with boost. I'm thinking detonation caused it like somebody else said.
 

Wishing4Cobra

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Watched the 2nd or 3rd video and it does sound like a light rod knock. Sucks if its really that though.

Time for built motor and more boost!
 

04Mach1Blurr

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Stock pulley. At 8psi. Had it untuned for 1 week and never got into boost. Maybe 300 max before tuned. Im looking into blocks right now as a possible cheaper outcome. Not sure when I can get an oil change done since I shouldn't drive it. But im most likely going to try and have it towed to a performance shop. Really bummed. Pretty sure its a rod knock as some people have suggested.
 

DarkMach1

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Look at the cup half full, now you get to build your internals and make good power. Hopefully you can reuse the crank, then all you need is new bearings, rods, pintons and studs. Reuse your block, no need to spend $ in a new one.
 

Mach1USMC

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:cuss::cryying::uh oh::cuss::fm:

And suggestions on what to do to fix the entire situation?

How to fix? EASY but not cheap. MMR probably has the best prices but they are in SoCal so shipping will not be cheap. But you can get a built stroker or just a built motor for pretty cheap- less than $2500. If you want to go BIG hit up MPS down in Georgia. You can get an entire Terminator drive train...... I've seen them go for as little as 8500 up to 11000. BUT you get everything: ECU, rear end, exhaust, tranny, clutch, longblock with all accessories, wiring harnesses, fuel system, gauges etc..... I'd say MMR would probably suit your purposes just fine for a "Budget" build- you could probably get what you need for under $2k. (personally I'd spend the extra coin and get a built stroker- it's really not that much more..... then you too can be rollin in a 5.0!!)

GL and keep us posted
 
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Entrenched

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tick tick tick

My turned out to be a supercharger bearing. I pulled the belt off and the noise stopped. Posi ported and rebuilt it and let me know that a coupler (I think) was bad and needed to be replaced.

th_6152010_165217.jpg
 

xXAzureMach1Xx

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How to fix? EASY but not cheap. MMR probably has the best prices but they are in SoCal so shipping will not be cheap. But you can get a built stroker or just a built motor for pretty cheap- less than $2500. If you want to go BIG hit up MPS down in Georgia. You can get an entire Terminator drive train...... I've seen them go for as little as 8500 up to 11000. BUT you get everything: ECU, rear end, exhaust, tranny, clutch, longblock with all accessories, wiring harnesses, fuel system, gauges etc..... I'd say MMR would probably suit your purposes just fine for a "Budget" build- you could probably get what you need for under $2k. (personally I'd spend the extra coin and get a built stroker- it's really not that much more..... then you too can be rollin in a 5.0!!)

GL and keep us posted

F MMR. A few guys around me have order motors from them and it take MONTHS to get. One guy got there MMR 900 i think and got the ARP main bolts with it and they didnt even put the bolts in, they shipped them in the box with the motor. WTF. just been things like that, that i have heard.
 

Mach1USMC

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F MMR. A few guys around me have order motors from them and it take MONTHS to get. One guy got there MMR 900 i think and got the ARP main bolts with it and they didnt even put the bolts in, they shipped them in the box with the motor. WTF. just been things like that, that i have heard.

I hadn't heard that- good info. Thanks.

OP there are other places to get motors as well. CHP comes to mind. I haven't looked recently. You may also find some good deals in the market section on this board.
 
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04Mach1Blurr

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Hey guys, sorry been running around with school, the Marine OSO, and getting quotes from shops and engine shopping. Ive been talking to Wild Bill over in AZ. Trying to figure out what went wrong first of all. We've been doing some research and it may be in the tune my tuner wrote. So were back checking.

Also looking at an aluminator, mmr 5.0 stroker, 03 cobra engine stock, and a forged packged deal for my block.

Pretty damn sure its the rod knock in 7 or 8. So while its apart i might as well just forge it so it doesnt happen again. And am looking to do a little upgrading power wise with a pulley and new heat exchager and ect.


Pretty sure ive narrowed it down to 2 or 3 shops. Big Daddy Performance, excessive, and JDM Engineering.

Im still trying to work it on a budget bet get a good setup and upgrade a bit to finish the move to the next level so to speak. Any suggestions
 

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