http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/open-track-racing-203/760083-what-hood.html
Here you go. The best pics are about 1/4 of the way down.
Here you go. The best pics are about 1/4 of the way down.
Tiger racing hoods.
- Thread starter racebronco2
- Start date
S197 always gets the love FIRST. But still good news. :burnout:
I assume you will be first in line. :burnout:
I'll be pretty close behind him, but not too close :lol1:
If we were on track you would be ahead!!:rockon::beer:
I have not been on track since before the new liver, I am really looking forward to rectifying that situation.
Is it May yet? :shrug:
I said back in August that Id post pics of my hinged DIY lift off hood.
Background.
I bought the hood 4-5 years ago with the intentions to run it as a pin on hood. The wind blew it over once last year and I decided lift off hoods suck. The hood is an 03/04 cervinis lift off hood, its made to fit the 99-01 front bumpers. It weighs about 22 lbs compared to the 40+lbs that the Cervinis '00R hood weighs. -20 lbs on the nose, up high is a pretty good minus.
How I did it.
I tried calling a popular composite supply house to get some low density foam but never got anywhere with expaining to the guy on the phone that I didnt need structural foam but I simply needed a foam that would act as a mold for the carbon fiber and fiberglass to lay over top off. He never got it.
So in frustration I bought a can of yellow expando foam house insulation. I sat the hood upside down on a table and put two large globs of foam about where the hinges should be on either side of the hood. I gently shook and tapped on the hood to help the foam settle and remove air pockets. This worked suprisingly well.
I borrowed my wife's hair dryer and put some heat to the foam to help the center of the foam cure. I also heated the underside of the hood to get as much heat through the foam as I could.
After two days I set about cutting the foam down to shape by hand. A fine toothed 6" sawzall blade worked great to saw through the foam. It cut about like the consistency of a loaf of bread. Pretty soon I had two identical long pyramid like foam shapes on the hood. I sawed the tops off to get them down to the height of the stock hoods finished underside.
I cleaned up the foam and laid the first layer of resin soaked fiberglass over the foam. I let it cure overnight then laid up another layer of f/g 45° off the grain of the first layer. Again I waited over night to let this cure then laid up a layer of carbon fiber. After the first layer of carbon fiber cured over night (Starting to see a pattern here?) I used a two part epoxy to glue the hood bolts into place.
Positioning of the hood bolts took an idiotic amount of measurement, remeasurement, reposition, measure again, move alittle more, measure again compare to the other side, remeasure, adjust, screw up, reposition and on and on. It took a long while to get the bolts exactly where I wanted them. It paid off though because as I sat the hood onto the car all four bolts slipped right down into the 1/4" holes in the stock hood hinges!! Being particular and having great attention to detail is usually more of a pain in the ass than a benefit, this time it paid off.
I let the bolts cure overnight then laid the final layer of c/f over the top of the bolts. I didnt vaccuum bag because I didnt have the equipment or the luxury of waiting on the brown truck to bring it to me. I did lay the hood out in the Kansas August sun to cure. I measured temps on the hood above 180°.
I did have to shim the hood with two 3/8" rubber bushings on each side to get the sides of the hood level with the fenders. This actually worked well due to the bushings having some damping effect to them with the vibration that the hood sees when the car is on track at race speed.
The results are below. Enjoy!! :beer:
Background.
I bought the hood 4-5 years ago with the intentions to run it as a pin on hood. The wind blew it over once last year and I decided lift off hoods suck. The hood is an 03/04 cervinis lift off hood, its made to fit the 99-01 front bumpers. It weighs about 22 lbs compared to the 40+lbs that the Cervinis '00R hood weighs. -20 lbs on the nose, up high is a pretty good minus.
How I did it.
I tried calling a popular composite supply house to get some low density foam but never got anywhere with expaining to the guy on the phone that I didnt need structural foam but I simply needed a foam that would act as a mold for the carbon fiber and fiberglass to lay over top off. He never got it.
So in frustration I bought a can of yellow expando foam house insulation. I sat the hood upside down on a table and put two large globs of foam about where the hinges should be on either side of the hood. I gently shook and tapped on the hood to help the foam settle and remove air pockets. This worked suprisingly well.
I borrowed my wife's hair dryer and put some heat to the foam to help the center of the foam cure. I also heated the underside of the hood to get as much heat through the foam as I could.
After two days I set about cutting the foam down to shape by hand. A fine toothed 6" sawzall blade worked great to saw through the foam. It cut about like the consistency of a loaf of bread. Pretty soon I had two identical long pyramid like foam shapes on the hood. I sawed the tops off to get them down to the height of the stock hoods finished underside.
I cleaned up the foam and laid the first layer of resin soaked fiberglass over the foam. I let it cure overnight then laid up another layer of f/g 45° off the grain of the first layer. Again I waited over night to let this cure then laid up a layer of carbon fiber. After the first layer of carbon fiber cured over night (Starting to see a pattern here?) I used a two part epoxy to glue the hood bolts into place.
Positioning of the hood bolts took an idiotic amount of measurement, remeasurement, reposition, measure again, move alittle more, measure again compare to the other side, remeasure, adjust, screw up, reposition and on and on. It took a long while to get the bolts exactly where I wanted them. It paid off though because as I sat the hood onto the car all four bolts slipped right down into the 1/4" holes in the stock hood hinges!! Being particular and having great attention to detail is usually more of a pain in the ass than a benefit, this time it paid off.
I let the bolts cure overnight then laid the final layer of c/f over the top of the bolts. I didnt vaccuum bag because I didnt have the equipment or the luxury of waiting on the brown truck to bring it to me. I did lay the hood out in the Kansas August sun to cure. I measured temps on the hood above 180°.
I did have to shim the hood with two 3/8" rubber bushings on each side to get the sides of the hood level with the fenders. This actually worked well due to the bushings having some damping effect to them with the vibration that the hood sees when the car is on track at race speed.
The results are below. Enjoy!! :beer:
Sorry, Double post.
Last edited:
$2k for the G Stream Wing. $750 for the Tiger hood. Figure $500 minimum for a proper splitter. i am going to be saving all year for that. then theres the shipping.
What hood latches are you using Anthony? BTW, thanks on the spacer rec'd it quickly and it's a perfect match for the first one. Rocking 1" now 
They're Aerocatch hood latches.
The install for them was also very time consuming. Lots of time measuring and laying out the included templates. I used two small hole saws to cut the ends where the latches sat and then used a dremel to remove the material in between. Even the pins for the Aerocatchs were a chore to get installed just right. I drilled a 1" hole underneath the rad support to allow access to install the nuts on the pins.
Latched
Released but will still hold the hood down
Open, hood will raise
Crazy angle on the hood pins
I had to bend the radiator support underneath the pins to allow them to sit at an angle.
The install for them was also very time consuming. Lots of time measuring and laying out the included templates. I used two small hole saws to cut the ends where the latches sat and then used a dremel to remove the material in between. Even the pins for the Aerocatchs were a chore to get installed just right. I drilled a 1" hole underneath the rad support to allow access to install the nuts on the pins.
Latched
Released but will still hold the hood down
Open, hood will raise
Crazy angle on the hood pins
I had to bend the radiator support underneath the pins to allow them to sit at an angle.
here's another "is it May yet" :shrug:
I can't wait for this hood to finally become availableepper:
I can't wait for this hood to finally become available
epper:
I'm hoping to get my Tiger Racing hood this week!!!!!
Finally bought my CF hood yesterday and delivered it to the paint shop. Quality piecce and best of all it is functional. Weighs about 15lbs. It's supposed to be done next week. I have been dreaming about this mod for 2 years. Can't wait.....
how much?
Why did you paint it? You car is a dark color already, most people wouldn't noticed anyways. Unless you wanted the stealth look. Post up some pictures when you get it back from the paint shop.
Nice to know Im 90% of the way there with my modded fiberglass lift off hood. I thought I might have been leaving 10+ lbs on the table or the hood if you will. ;-)
Thanks for posting the weight. :beer:
The hood comes in non cosmetic carbon so it is primered grey. It needs to be painted. Pics soon....
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