IS THERE ANY WORD ON A REAL FIX FOR THE TOB ISSUE. I AM WORKING WITH MY MECHANIC AT THE DEALERSHIP TO FIND OUT THE ROOT OF THE PROBLEM. ONLY WANT TO DO THIS ONCE.
:burn:
:burn:
TOB SCREAMING
- Thread starter forane2001
- Start date
They just replaced my friends transmission for his TOB squeal.
picture of silver coupe in ads
ALL THAT SMOKE IN THE AD PHOTO OF THE NEW 2003 COBRA WHEN IT WAS INTRODUCED WAS REALLY COMING FROM THE TOB, CLUTCH , TRANNY, HALFSHAFTS, AND THE TICKING HEAD---NOT THE TIRES. JUST KIDDING. I LOVE MY COBRA AND CAN PUT UP WITH A FEW HEAD ACHES FOR THE PERFORMANCE OF THE CAR. JUST HAD A FUNNY THOUGHT.
ALL THAT SMOKE IN THE AD PHOTO OF THE NEW 2003 COBRA WHEN IT WAS INTRODUCED WAS REALLY COMING FROM THE TOB, CLUTCH , TRANNY, HALFSHAFTS, AND THE TICKING HEAD---NOT THE TIRES. JUST KIDDING. I LOVE MY COBRA AND CAN PUT UP WITH A FEW HEAD ACHES FOR THE PERFORMANCE OF THE CAR. JUST HAD A FUNNY THOUGHT.SVTADVISOR POSTED A THREAD THAT HAD THE LATEST FORD FIX. HE LISTED THE PART NUMBER THEY WERE USING. nOT TOO SURE OF OTHER DETAILS.
(SORRY FOR CAPS, DIDN'T WANNA RETYPE IT ALL)
(SORRY FOR CAPS, DIDN'T WANNA RETYPE IT ALL)
chirping noise
I have 8k miles and am getting a squealing, chirping noise, not real loud. When I push the clutch pedal in the noise goes away. Just wondering if there is a more serious problem than just the TOB, like something not lined up correctly that would put an incorrect load on the TOB. Anyhow taking it to the dealer. Anyone hear anything else on the correct fix.
I have 8k miles and am getting a squealing, chirping noise, not real loud. When I push the clutch pedal in the noise goes away. Just wondering if there is a more serious problem than just the TOB, like something not lined up correctly that would put an incorrect load on the TOB. Anyhow taking it to the dealer. Anyone hear anything else on the correct fix.
probably just a bad tob....it's a $14 part if i'm not mistaken.
My dealer would not fix it b/c it was inconsistent. They could not reproduce it so no fix for it. Two things I learned thus far related to this.
1. I noticed, like you, it goes away with some light pressure on the clutch pedal. I also noticed it would go away with a slight lift of the pedal. I then did the precedure in the owners manual for adjusting the clutch pedal. Basically with the car off and in first gear pull the clutch pedal up until you feel it pop/notch. then press the pedal in and let it up pretty quick. This seemed to stop my squel for a couple of weeks. I have done it a few times already.
2. I heard from a tech who worked on a cobra that he simply sprayed a "little" high temp lube onto the TOB area. He said that stoppped the squel for 1 month and running. I have not tried this one myself though.
Good luck. I am hoping worst comes to worse it will squel it's way to 100,000+ miles!
1. I noticed, like you, it goes away with some light pressure on the clutch pedal. I also noticed it would go away with a slight lift of the pedal. I then did the precedure in the owners manual for adjusting the clutch pedal. Basically with the car off and in first gear pull the clutch pedal up until you feel it pop/notch. then press the pedal in and let it up pretty quick. This seemed to stop my squel for a couple of weeks. I have done it a few times already.
2. I heard from a tech who worked on a cobra that he simply sprayed a "little" high temp lube onto the TOB area. He said that stoppped the squel for 1 month and running. I have not tried this one myself though.
Good luck. I am hoping worst comes to worse it will squel it's way to 100,000+ miles!
I talked to a guy who had the same problem and found a dealer that did replace the TOB. Guess his was consistant. Unfortunately his replacement is starting to make noise again, but is intermittent. Could probably live with the noise but just worried something will fail or this will cause tranmission failure after the car is off warranty.
Im going to bring in my car for the 6th TOB replacement. I had 2 go and on the 3rd they replaced the whole Tranny. Since then this is the 2nd time with the new tranny. Ive got a feeling I will have another T-56 put in. POS TOB!!!!!Im going to ush for the new tranny so I can put in the KB when I get it back. Ive had a KB w/17lb ,55lbs Inj., and HPH oil spray kit on my bedroom floor in boxes for over a month and a half.Glad I waited cause I dont want any warranty problems. Not Like I have before but just dont want to risk it. LOL Black03
6th TOB? How many miles are on your car? You might want to bring it to another dealer. Sounds like they are f'n up the install because 6 TOBs is retarded.
My 02 GT with the tremec 3650 as well as many other GTs have the random squealing/chirping TOB problem. I like many others simply took the cover off the clutch cable entrance to the tranny and lubed the bearing with white lithium grease. The car went for close to 30,000 miles after that without a squeak. I traded it for my cobra then, so don't know how it is doing now.
-Jason
-Jason
I actually think the TOB noise is a result of poor clutch linkage design, and not the TOB itself. Yes, the TOB is failing, but not because they are bad, but because the linkage causes the TOB to be in constant contact with the pressure plate fingers causing undue wear on the TOB. They are designed for intermittent duty, not constant use.
Maybe Ford will figure this out too. Replacing a $1000 transmission because a $10 TOB goes bad is nuts. They need to get rid of the self adjusting clutch system and revert to one that can be set properly. How many times do they have to do this before the light bulb goes on?
I would imagine that the majority of failures are on cars with the stock clutch linkage or in a very few, rare cases, ones with aftermarket quadrants that have not been adjusted or maintained correctly.
Because of the design, many owners are unaware of the maintenance requirements until it is too late (bearing squeal begins).
Just my 2 cents.
I'm not one for polls, but maybe we could determine if there is, in fact, a correlation between the TOB failure and stock clutch linkage? Or lack of failures after aftermarket linage installed?
Anyone want to set one up?
Dana
Maybe Ford will figure this out too. Replacing a $1000 transmission because a $10 TOB goes bad is nuts. They need to get rid of the self adjusting clutch system and revert to one that can be set properly. How many times do they have to do this before the light bulb goes on?
I would imagine that the majority of failures are on cars with the stock clutch linkage or in a very few, rare cases, ones with aftermarket quadrants that have not been adjusted or maintained correctly.
Because of the design, many owners are unaware of the maintenance requirements until it is too late (bearing squeal begins).
Just my 2 cents.
I'm not one for polls, but maybe we could determine if there is, in fact, a correlation between the TOB failure and stock clutch linkage? Or lack of failures after aftermarket linage installed?
Anyone want to set one up?
Dana
Tob
Very well put DANA,When i changed my tob and clutch to spec 2,my nose cone ,covering the input shaft was also broken.I had to replace.Nose cone and the dealer doesn't carry parts for t56,had to get it from transimisson shop.
Very well put DANA,When i changed my tob and clutch to spec 2,my nose cone ,covering the input shaft was also broken.I had to replace.Nose cone and the dealer doesn't carry parts for t56,had to get it from transimisson shop.
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I am waiting on mods as well, need the warranty. May ask the dealer to install a spec 3 when they do the TOB, and then go with the aftermarket quadrant adjuster if will not void the warranty. I do have the stock linkage so perhaps this is the root cause of the problem.
TOB
Yeah, I had the new TOB part number put in. It was my 3rd replacement. It lasted about 1100 miles before starting to chirp again. In 5K miles, I went through 4 TOBs. I gave up on the whole thing.
Yeah, I had the new TOB part number put in. It was my 3rd replacement. It lasted about 1100 miles before starting to chirp again. In 5K miles, I went through 4 TOBs. I gave up on the whole thing.
What it boils down to is that the TOB should be just off of the fingers on the pressure plate, as little as 1/16 inch is sufficient. Just so it isn't touching. Slightly more is preferable. This will prevent the TOB from being in constant motion.
This can be determined by inspecting the TOB through the opening under the cover over the clutch cable on the flywheel housing. That is the only 100 % sure method of knowing if it is touching or not. After it is set initially, there will be a certain amount of free play at the top of the pedal travel, where the pedal has absolutely no resistance. If this free play is maintained, the corresponding clearance should also exist at the clutch.
What makes this some what more difficult is that this system uses a cable to operate the clutch. The cable makes it difficult to judge the amount of travel that the release fork actually moves. Additionally, to compound the problem, there is no built-in mechanism to move the TOB away from the pressure plate as there would be with a linkage type clutch. The cable pulls only, it does not push.
What is needed is a return spring on the release fork to insure that the fork/TOB does not contact the pressure plate, in addition to the one at the pedal.
There are additional issues here that I discovered after dropping my trans and clutch. There is grease build-up behind the TOB on the front bearing retainer that can inhibit the complete release of the TOB in some cases. This, combined with the lack of a spring on the fork, can also cause the TOB to be in constant motion because it can't move away sufficiently.
All in all, a very poor design. One that requires constant monitoring to prevent TOB failure.
The fact that Ford chose to use an overly complicated mechanism that is supposed to be able to compensate for the clutch wear did nothing to help. Many owners are not aware of the procedure, that may or may not work, until after it is too late, if they ever learn of it.
The aftermarket quadrant goes a long way towards solving the problem, but is not a cure all. It still needs monitoring and adjusting regularly.
Dana
This can be determined by inspecting the TOB through the opening under the cover over the clutch cable on the flywheel housing. That is the only 100 % sure method of knowing if it is touching or not. After it is set initially, there will be a certain amount of free play at the top of the pedal travel, where the pedal has absolutely no resistance. If this free play is maintained, the corresponding clearance should also exist at the clutch.
What makes this some what more difficult is that this system uses a cable to operate the clutch. The cable makes it difficult to judge the amount of travel that the release fork actually moves. Additionally, to compound the problem, there is no built-in mechanism to move the TOB away from the pressure plate as there would be with a linkage type clutch. The cable pulls only, it does not push.
What is needed is a return spring on the release fork to insure that the fork/TOB does not contact the pressure plate, in addition to the one at the pedal.
There are additional issues here that I discovered after dropping my trans and clutch. There is grease build-up behind the TOB on the front bearing retainer that can inhibit the complete release of the TOB in some cases. This, combined with the lack of a spring on the fork, can also cause the TOB to be in constant motion because it can't move away sufficiently.
All in all, a very poor design. One that requires constant monitoring to prevent TOB failure.
The fact that Ford chose to use an overly complicated mechanism that is supposed to be able to compensate for the clutch wear did nothing to help. Many owners are not aware of the procedure, that may or may not work, until after it is too late, if they ever learn of it.
The aftermarket quadrant goes a long way towards solving the problem, but is not a cure all. It still needs monitoring and adjusting regularly.
Dana
its weird, my TOB stopped squeeling completely many thousand miles ago. not sure why though...
It would squeel all the time when I first got the car till they replaced the transmission because it wore through the sleeve.
then thousands of miles after that it began to do it again for a long time.
Now I havn't heard a single whine or squeel from it. Can't figure out if thats a good thing or a bad thing... sounds like a good thing though.
Only difference is that I've maybe it's has something to do with me pulling up on the clutch peddle more often to readjust it. but I can't see how that would make a difference. weird
:beer:
It would squeel all the time when I first got the car till they replaced the transmission because it wore through the sleeve.
then thousands of miles after that it began to do it again for a long time.
Now I havn't heard a single whine or squeel from it. Can't figure out if thats a good thing or a bad thing... sounds like a good thing though.
Only difference is that I've maybe it's has something to do with me pulling up on the clutch peddle more often to readjust it. but I can't see how that would make a difference. weird
:beer:
Mine Too. Now the dealer wont do anything for me on the 4th one. They are 'waiting on a TSB from Ford'. So my tranny stays squealing... Hopefully it will have to get towed to Ford again....
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