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VMP Stage 1 - install questions

Discussion in 'Power-Adders' started by cheeser, May 24, 2019.

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  1. cheeser

    cheeser Member Established Member

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    I'm getting ready to install my VMP Stage 1 kit and oil pump gears next weekend. The install instructions seem pretty clear...already printed out.

    As I wait for my final parts, I had a few initial questions:

    1) I bought a timing cover that has already been modified. I want to install the new crank seal, but manual doesn't illustrate the orientation of the seal to press it in from front. Is it fairly obvious?

    2) Bought a new oil pump and gears to swap ahead of time. I couldn't find torque values for the screws on the back side of cover when I button it back up,

    3) How much antifreeze for radiator and intercooler? I was planning to replace the fluid anyways.

    4) I purchased the NGK IX (6510s) plugs. Spark plug gap...instructions say .028 to .035 is acceptable, while I have seen other at .032? Should I use .032?

    I don't know if there are any other gotchas I should watch for. I have seen the various tips for removing the oil pump tube bolts and reinstalling.
     
  2. Stangra

    Stangra Member Established Member

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    It can only go one way, just duplicate the old timing cover

    The T30 torx screws? 89 lb/in. Star pattern sequence

    I used the VMP Tripple Pass H/E & Mishimoto Performance Aluminum Radiator. Needed 5 gal. of coolant/water mixed for eng & intercooler

    My tuner recommended .028

    My install was a Roush Phase 1, but almost identical to the VMP. Good luck with your install, you're gonna LOVE it!!!
    Feel free to PM me if ya need any help.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2019
  3. Stangra

    Stangra Member Established Member

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    To anyone out there considering buying one of these, something to think about:
    If you are removing your timing cover to replace gears and wanna replace it too, once it's off you'll see how much easier and cleaner it would be to do the mod on the bench compared with working under the hood. The vast majority of the work is in removing and installing the cover (your original or a pre-modified one). The extra hour of effort is definitely worth doing yourself, and if you're worried about appearance, the reworked areas can't even be seen once the pulleys and brackets are installed.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2019
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  4. Riptide

    Riptide Well-Known Member Established Member

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    What's that? Mess you say?

    Didn't do oil pump or anything else on mine just installed it.
    IMG_6728.JPG IMG_6729.JPG
     
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  5. TVSed GT

    TVSed GT Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Triple check timing. After that check one more time.
    Ask me why I am so adamant...
     
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  6. Stangra

    Stangra Member Established Member

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    Even with it right.... an anxious moment turnin that key for the first time!
     
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  7. cheeser

    cheeser Member Established Member

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    My main reason for buying a new cover that had already been modified was to reduce the overall time of the install...I was going to replace the oil pump gears anyways. It may not be much in time, but want to make this as easy and quick as possible.

    I believe my only other concern was in in soldering that one wire. Doesn’t look hard (was electronics tech in Air Force), but one of those details to be careful doing.

    Will reach out if I have any concerns. Plan on pulling it in the garage next Saturday for some initial things (front up in air on race ramps, remove coolant, etc.), and then diving in on Sunday.

    Keeping my fingers crossed that all goes smooth, and that initial tune works well.

    I’m entered in the big Mustang show in Steamboat Springs over Fathers Day thus my desire to get this done.
     
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  8. cheeser

    cheeser Member Established Member

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    Agreed...that was my primary concern in whether I did the oil pump gears as well...those damn chains. I take mine to the local road course once/yr for fun and thought I better add this to the upgrade.
     
  9. TVSed GT

    TVSed GT Well-Known Member Established Member

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    That’s why you turn over by hand at least 6 revolutions to be sure you don’t have contact. Once you hit the key it’s all over but the crying
     
  10. Stangra

    Stangra Member Established Member

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    Very true, I worried about being off enough to clear but still off, woulda been an irritating mistake
     
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  11. TVSed GT

    TVSed GT Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Nah that’s easy. YouTube soldering to be sure you truly know the correct method, thought I did but not so much.
    Depinning requires a bit of patience and care. Really follow instructions, use common sense and you’ll be just fine. Pm me and I can give you my cell if you run into issues, but doubt you will.
     
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  12. TVSed GT

    TVSed GT Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Use your cell phone to take straight on pics to ensure links line up with marks. Really tough to see properly especially if you’re doing on jack stands like us poor folks haha
     
  13. TVSed GT

    TVSed GT Well-Known Member Established Member

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    I did this. Was off by exactly 1 chain link on drivers side. Mad doesn’t describe how I felt once my car threw that code, I followed everything to the t but only took one off center picture and looked like it was lined up on that chain. Don’t be like me!
     
  14. Stangra

    Stangra Member Established Member

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    No wonder! ...isn't it "T"?;)
     
  15. TVSed GT

    TVSed GT Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Haha devils in the details
     
  16. Stangra

    Stangra Member Established Member

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    Thinking back now, I remember how frustratingly time consuming it was figuring out how to disconnect the plethora of various different electrical connectors encountered throughout this project. None work exactly the same, a few are downright maddening. Do Ford Engineers get an award for the plug-o-the-month or something?? And they always seem to be just out of clear view or just beyond easy reach too, one of those simple things where there's a lot of time to be saved on your second time doing it!
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2019
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  17. cheeser

    cheeser Member Established Member

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    On page 21, step 9, it says to “Connect the small black 3/16” vacuum line boost bypass hose from the elbow of the blower to the top port of the supercharger bypass actuator. You will need to thread the 1/8” NPT x 90* barb fitting into the threaded hole on the back of the blower with a small amount of sealant.”

    The picture doesn’t show this elbow...just a straight port from supercharger. Do I install this elbow on the back of the blower, and then connect the short vacuum line to this brass elbow to top port of bypass actuator?
     
  18. TVSed GT

    TVSed GT Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Yes, should be a very short section of hose maybe 3-4 inches. There’s only one logical place to connect to the boost bypass.
    The gen 2r vmp doesn’t have a separate elbow that bolts to the main SC housing, it’s all one piece. I think that part of instructions is leftover from previous generations
     
  19. cheeser

    cheeser Member Established Member

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    Thanks...it’s always these little details that can cause problems
     
  20. cheeser

    cheeser Member Established Member

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    I wanted to double check on the oil seal install into a new timing cover. I took a quick look and it wasn't obvious to me. I can't look at the existing seal as its blocked by the balancer.

    Is this the correct orientation, or do I flip it 180? If installed this way, I assume the metal portion sits flush with timing cover edge when installed?

    seal.jpg
     

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