ive had two lightnings and we we all know that they come with factory eatons, that is my roots experience, however im aware that i may not be giving them a fair chance since 1, its was a 4000lb truck, 2, it was a factory eaton both times, 3, factory eaton.
vortech or similar centri users in here
- Thread starter usnfenix
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ive had two lightnings and we we all know that they come with factory eatons, that is my roots experience, however im aware that i may not be giving them a fair chance since 1, its was a 4000lb truck, 2, it was a factory eaton both times, 3, factory eaton.
QFT
Trapping 133 at 9psi of boost isn't exactly indicative of a setup that is a stop light to stop light warrior... lol
Mine pulls all the way to redline too
and the thing is i dont engage in the stoplight conflicts. the rolls i was referring to was the cruising along and something worth it pulls up and there is space for a run, now ive been just mashing the gas at 40 or so and letting the tune do its thing, rather than downshift manually to 2nd.
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If you want instant TQ, you will want PD or centri with wastegate setup. Look at the tq curves on dynos of the two setups. Decide where you want your power to be. I have a manual and pass in 4th gear (starting at just over 3000rpms), and the torque puts a smile on my face. The centri guys will just downshift and use 3rd, or even 2nd depending on gearing/mph, and they'll pull hard too. I just love my torque without rev'ing. It's totally personal preference. I've never driven a w/g'ed centri setup. I've only seen a couple dyno's of them and I was kind of disappointed with the rate at which the boost comes on. It was a little better than w/o the w/g, but I was expecting more I guess. I'm guessing you could pulley down more to get it to come on quicker, but at some point you will run into belt slip issues. Too bad the i-1 is so ugly....lol.
In the situation you described either choice will leave the other car with hurt feelings. PD vs centri in a roll will be close mod for mod. Like others have said it is really a choice on how you want the power to come in. Best bet is to find some locals to take you for a ride.
When buying a supercharger you need to think about power goals, max rpm you wanna spin to and what are you buying it for (track times or DD fun machine) because all of those factors can play big when your boosting on stock motor and should tell you what you need to go with. I personally would not spin the motor past 7k with any blower making big power without doing the oil pump gears which is an added expense to think about especially if your not doing the work yourself. Since most tuners wanna spin to 7500 with a centri because of how they deliver power late in the rpm range to get the most out of it you might as well add them to install. 7k and below I would not worry about OPG most failures I've read about with them guys were revving past 7k. I'm very happy with my phase 3 setup in my car and it's basically maintenance free , i was faced with this same decision and actually had a down payment on a V3 with beefcake and i had some things come up at the house i had to back out of the deal , but it gave me more time to re think what i wanted and I'm very happy with what i chose . Good luck I'm sure you will be happy either way and just my personal opinion you won't be happy with anything under 600whp
At the end of the day, all of the power adders are fun on these cars. The biggest benefit to a vortech / Paxton, is growing potential. The centri's are less $, and more power potential. Win Win
This is true, however both blowers easily reach the limits of the stock bottom end. I personally can't afford a built motor
, so it didn't make sense to make a decision based on cost & hp potential.I personally can't afford a built motor
I would say that is true for most people when supercharging , if it was easily afforded then everyone who is boosted would have built motors. Potential is there for the TVS also especially with the new gen 2 which we have already seen close to 900 whp in its infancy
for the cost difference, especially with the upgrade, you could almost forge your bottom end though...
misleading...
Comparing upgraded kit to base
Could almost afford the PARTS to forge your bottom end.... Now add the cost to get them installed
After a torque converter & torque booster to make a Paxton/Vortech work for an auto, I highly doubt there's any money left over!
The TVS is more upfront, but doesn't need extra crap to make it work... Well other then sticky tires!
I sell just as many converters to tvs customers as centri customers.
you don't have to have a converter to make them work
they are 10 second capable out of the box
you don't have to have a converter to make them work
they are 10 second capable out of the box
I watch Lidio run 1.45 60' times all day long on a stock converter & DR's... I'm down to 1.57 on NT05's... He told me I'd be wasting money to buy a converter.
Can you give details. Ambient/IAT, before, during,after run.
You don't need a tq booster or a converter to make a centri car work. From a roll any disadvantage of less low end is gone. The car will downshift into the blowers power band. Fact of the matter is for a street car not running drs either blower will not hook off the line on the street. Op asked about roll racing at low rpms, that's the only reason I said a tvs is better. there is no reason a car should be at low rpms while wot from a roll.
thanks all for responses. as far as a few things you all have mentioned i dont want to push past what the stock block can handle, so as far as teh power potential of a paxton it wouldnt matter.
valid arguments on both sides, however after reading through everything and doing more research i think TVS will suit my goals better. the area of 600-650 rwhp will be fine for me and also for the fact it is a street car, DD and im looking for fun factor over rigid competition at the drag strip.
valid arguments on both sides, however after reading through everything and doing more research i think TVS will suit my goals better. the area of 600-650 rwhp will be fine for me and also for the fact it is a street car, DD and im looking for fun factor over rigid competition at the drag strip.
Most Paxton/Vortech customers I tune end up with the following setup:
Beefcake special with ID1000's
Maxflow or Tial BOV
T-Bolt clamps
BAP
Colder plugs
JLT CAI
That setup on Beefcake Racing's website is: $6293 tuned
Preferably I'd like to see the JMS plug and play upgrade for $225
What we then hear is customers want more torque so they opt for the 8-rib Wastegate setup which lists for $1316 on Beefcakes website (with the needed Belt).
Total cost for the above setup is $7609 (without JMS) and this combination has the capability of running 700RWHP on E85 with the correct pulley / wastegate spring AND the Boss IM (Add $65 for the Boss intake coupler). The GT IM will peak 1000RPM lower and reduce PEAK HP with the Wastegate setup compared to the Boss IM. (Should we add the price of the Boss IM to the cost?)
Compare that to the TVS Beefcake special listed on the website for $6959
TVS with your choice of upper pulley
BAP (ideally upgrade to JMS for $225)
Roush CAI
Plugs
ID1000s
With a Ford Racing Twin65MM TB ($550) this setup also puts down 700+RWHP on E85, but will make 100+ft/lbs more torque. For a total of $7509 (not including JMS updgrade).
(both Paxton and TVS are assuming free-flowing exhaust)
From my experience the TVS drive quality is FAR superior to the Paxton/Vortech. 100ft/lbs more torque at 3K RPM + better drivability, THAT is a Win/Win in my book.
The TVS is also an OE quality kit, designed for Factory equipped mustangs.
The Paxton/Vortech *base* kits are cheaper and make good HP, but they cost more to updgrade which means in the end, you've got to pay to play, regardless of which blower you pick.
Beefcake special with ID1000's
Maxflow or Tial BOV
T-Bolt clamps
BAP
Colder plugs
JLT CAI
That setup on Beefcake Racing's website is: $6293 tuned
Preferably I'd like to see the JMS plug and play upgrade for $225
What we then hear is customers want more torque so they opt for the 8-rib Wastegate setup which lists for $1316 on Beefcakes website (with the needed Belt).
Total cost for the above setup is $7609 (without JMS) and this combination has the capability of running 700RWHP on E85 with the correct pulley / wastegate spring AND the Boss IM (Add $65 for the Boss intake coupler). The GT IM will peak 1000RPM lower and reduce PEAK HP with the Wastegate setup compared to the Boss IM. (Should we add the price of the Boss IM to the cost?)
Compare that to the TVS Beefcake special listed on the website for $6959
TVS with your choice of upper pulley
BAP (ideally upgrade to JMS for $225)
Roush CAI
Plugs
ID1000s
With a Ford Racing Twin65MM TB ($550) this setup also puts down 700+RWHP on E85, but will make 100+ft/lbs more torque. For a total of $7509 (not including JMS updgrade).
(both Paxton and TVS are assuming free-flowing exhaust)
From my experience the TVS drive quality is FAR superior to the Paxton/Vortech. 100ft/lbs more torque at 3K RPM + better drivability, THAT is a Win/Win in my book.
The TVS is also an OE quality kit, designed for Factory equipped mustangs.
The Paxton/Vortech *base* kits are cheaper and make good HP, but they cost more to updgrade which means in the end, you've got to pay to play, regardless of which blower you pick.
The centri vs tvs battle never ends!
Shaun just posted probably the best head to head I've seen on these setups.
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