Welding Axle Tubes?

lsxjunkie

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2014 400A/Track/Recaros ordered a week and a half ago, waiting for my VIN.

My car isn't even here yet, but I'm doing all the homework I can before it does get here. I've seen posts from both Steeda and BMR stating that the axle tubes can twist out with hard driving on stock tires. The car is going to be my daily driver, hopefully for a very long time. I do plan to drive it hard, maybe even try a couple of HPDEs.

Should I weld my axle tubes, get a brace, or leave it alone and if I do, where do I go in the Northeast (NY, NJ, CT, PA)? I know you're supposed to take the whole assembly out and weld it in a jig, but I don't know who would have such a jig. Also, how much would that cost? Thanks in advance.
 
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byeofcr

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I dont think you should even bother. I mean its a good precautionary measure sure. But i along with countless others never had a problem with it. Besides your warrantied for awhile
 

alex12gt

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Ive never heard of anyone having that happen........but i had mine welded after i pulled the rear end to re gear it, replaced a bent axle and made sure i hadnt twisted or bent the tube
 

slagburn

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I wouldn't sweat it. It would take severe, extended wheel hop to cause a problem, or yanking the wheels at the track on a weekly basis for quite a while.
 

lsxjunkie

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Thanks folks. These are the posts I refer to btw.

2012 Mustang GT twisted axle tube - Ford Mustang Forums

BMR Tech said:
This is a very common occurrence on the 2011+ cars.

I started a thread on S197Forum, basically telling people that they should consider welding the tubes in these cars if they plan on "beating" on the car, regardless of mods and tires, etc.

I received a massive amount of calls, last year alone, from this exact situation occurring on cars that were highly modified, and some that were almost stock on stock tires.

Occasionally, I get calls form customers who blame our relocation brackets for making their steering wheel off-center...and 99% of the time it is because they have a slightly twisted axle-tube, and don't know it.

steedagus said:
Regardless, as BMR suggested if you plan on doing any driving outside of the normal street driving Ford designed the car for on a regular basis you should consider welding the tubes. Contrary to the performance image advertised for the car, Ford does not expect you to drive the car aggressively over and over again, like enthusiasts actually would.
__________________
 

acrbill

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A chassis shop should have a jig that will make sure its straight. Its not a bad idea for a few reasons. Obviously it will make sure you don't twist the tubes and it gives you the opportunity to paint the housing which is untreated steel.
 

lsxjunkie

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A chassis shop should have a jig that will make sure its straight. Its not a bad idea for a few reasons. Obviously it will make sure you don't twist the tubes and it gives you the opportunity to paint the housing which is untreated steel.

Thanks. I might give Neverlift a call when I pick my car up. They'll be pricey, but I know the work will be done right. Or I may just live with the potential twisted tube until my warranty is out, just let FoMoCo take care of it if it goes.
 

xxbmxlsxx

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mine twisted so it does happen. bent my bmr lca brackets and my tire touched the fender slightly. get them welded
 

downwardspiral

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Is it that big of a deal to weld them that a chassis shop needs to do it? From what I've read its just cast steel (not cast iron) so it can be migged. It already has pins to secure the tubes, it's not like a custom axle housing. I would do 3-4 1" welds going around the tubes and take my time to reduce warpage.
 

lsxjunkie

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Is it that big of a deal to weld them that a chassis shop needs to do it? From what I've read its just cast steel (not cast iron) so it can be migged. It already has pins to secure the tubes, it's not like a custom axle housing. I would do 3-4 1" welds going around the tubes and take my time to reduce warpage.

I really don't know. This is my first stick axle car. I've been all IRS until now. But if warp is an actual issue, I want to avoid it. I'm an alignment Nazi. Throwing off my rear camber or toe permanently is not an option. At this rate, I may just let it ride until my factory warranty is out.
 

downwardspiral

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I really don't know. This is my first stick axle car. I've been all IRS until now. But if warp is an actual issue, I want to avoid it. I'm an alignment Nazi. Throwing off my rear camber or toe permanently is not an option. At this rate, I may just let it ride until my factory warranty is out.

That's the thing.. I was searching a couple sites to find an answer and it seems like everyone is worried about it, and warn that it will do more harm than good.. but I couldn't find a thread of someone butchering it and having problems. The only real world responses were a bunch of people saying "I did it with a mig welder and have no problems" lol.
 

Fun4me

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From what I read on the interwebs, the pins are what hold it. The welds are easy to break.
 

Ill_W1N

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Just weld a couple of spots on the tubes, no need for a jig, I just had mine done and seeing what's holding the tubes in place made me do it. Also, there's been two 2011+ mustangs in the last two weeks at the track around here that bent their axle tubes. Better safe than sorry. I'd highly doubt Ford would cover a twisted axle under warranty.
 

el jefe 302

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If you have a welder make your own jig. Materials shouldn't cost more then a few hundred.

Please do not weld it without one..

As soon as you start your first 3 inch stitch the tube will start to pull.

If you try to do a series of tacks, you will never get enough weld penetration.

The professionals use jigs for a reason.

:beer:
 

downwardspiral

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If you have a welder make your own jig. Materials shouldn't cost more then a few hundred.

Please do not weld it without one..

As soon as you start your first 3 inch stitch the tube will start to pull.

If you try to do a series of tacks, you will never get enough weld penetration.

The professionals use jigs for a reason.

:beer:

True.. better safe than sorry.. it just seems kind of wasteful to make a jig like that for a couple little welds. I was thinking of doing one inch welds 3 or 4 times just to give it a little more resistance to spinning. I would imagine a 3 inch weld would warp the tube without a jig as you said.
 

Wiseguy

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Old fox bodys could bend and twist on the street. This is nothing new. What's new is these housings are longer and have to put up with steet cars that make 600rw with ease. (600 is the old 350rw) among other things.....
Go to the track, and long term you will have stress issues. The axles dont twist/break as much and other weak points show up. Brand new you can weld tubes in a timed manner for no warping. If rear is of unknown source or has been dragged, you need a jig to make sure your foundation is good.
Bracing is the best thing to do. Front or rear on housing depending on exhaust setup. Welding will prevent twist but bracing will really help you keep the tubes straight.

Most welded rears were not on a jig. Costs extra, more time, and many shops dont have them.
 

grnenvy

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I can't tell u how many I have welded in the car just by lowering it down enough to weld around it. There's no need for a Jig. I was pulling 1.32 short times with a 31 spline welded rear. It was an auto car though. If u need more then that just switch over to a build 9in.
 
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