What is the point of the LDM Freeplay Kit?

[Dana]

My suggestion is to spend some time and learn just how a clutch works, and in particular, how the one in the Cobras work. You will have a better understanding of why the clutch kit is helpful to many owners.
The Ford setup has some quirks that are not evident when you first look at the setup, but become painfully obvious later on down the road, especially when aftermarket parts are introduced into the equation.

 

[silvercoffin]

...

I admit I am no mechanic and have only a very basic understanding of how a clutch works, but still the adjustment recommended by JDM and what was described in Muscle Mustang Fast Fords Magazine will result in little or no pedal play. Making the use of this kit for free play null and void. Using it to keep your TOB safe sounds like it is still a good idea though.


Please explain... I am still hoping that my shifting problems could all be the result of adjustment, but doesnt seem like it since I have tried adjusting it different ways and still cant get down the strip like I used to.

I am still wondering about the bell housing alignment. I am hoping that one of these mustang shops here in NJ will actually measure that for me.

 

[SnakeBit]

What is being stated on this thread just doesnt add up to me...

{snip}

I guess I tend to believe the magazine and JDM...

What I have found is that the magazine articles tend to be kind to their advertisers ( I can't comment on JDM because I have no experience with them, so no slam intended there ). "Truth" tends to get stretched like a rubber band. I don't believe everything I read in the magazines and I don't believe in the Tooth Fairy, Santa Clause, or The Easter Bunny. Just my opinion, but I have found more truthful information on these boards than I have in the magazine articles. Sure there is inaccurate info posted (including by me), but it tends to get called out pretty quickly and corrected. That never happens in the magazines.

As far as the Mustang clutch and related components, Dana is at the top of that game. But if you'd rather believe the magazines, well, it's your car (and clutch and TOB). And as far as believing Ford, well, they also said that we have an "Oil Pressure Gauge" in the Cobra. They produced slick advertising brochures showing the Cobra in a massive burnout on the cover (and even introduced the 03 to the press with a burnout on stage), yet will void warranties when they find rubber bits in the rear wheel wells and claim "abuse". Fool me once...

BTW, find me one magazine article where they tested something and came back and said it didn't work or it was a waste of time and money. I've been reading them for a long time and have NEVER seen that happen. Every mod they've ever done ALWAYS works. Amazing!

 

[silvercoffin]

...

Your point is well made.

If it wasn't for JDM Engineering backing up what i read I wouldnt be so quick to believe a magazine article either. ..although they arent trying to sell anything when they talk about how to adjust the clutch..

What the hell...ill make one more attempt at the track with some more free play in my cable before taking it back in for yet another clutch....in hopes that they will fix what ever the freaking problem is with my car..

I have had several other people with cobras tell me that the shop or mechanic they use also says that our cable should be as described in the article.

I'm still wondering about bell housing alignment. The mechanic I had been using said its BS.. Anyone here have any experience with that?

 

[exdeath]

Someone should do a quick write up on the various parts of the clutch system. I think I have this right but I've never personally installed any of these parts.

To adjust actual pedal height, you need a pedal height adjustment bracket that has a stop bolt that adjusts how high the pedal returns to rest.

The quadrant is a trade off between effort and travel distance, depending on the design, and has no adjustment purpose other than multiple hooks to change force vs. distance characteristics and accommodate various cable lengths. Mostly replaced to eliminate flex.

The firewall adjuster and/or adjustable cable takes up slack in the cable and sets the point at which the pedal starts to tug on the fork. It is necessary with an after market quadrant and replaces the ratchet adjustment mechanism on the stock plastic quadrant and serves the same purpose. You have to leave 1/2" slack in the cable so that there isn't cable tension riding the TOB against the pressure plate springs constantly. The firewall adjuster does not adjust physical pedal height, only the engagement point by taking up slack otherwise taken up by the pedal travel.

And the free play adjustment kit, takes up that additional bit of slop in the pedal left by that 1/2" of slack while still keeping the TOB disengage (??).

 

[silvercoffin]

....

I know all that....not sure how much more here is to understand..

What people are misunderstanding here according to what I have been told by mechnics from JDM Engineering (at their track day) and other people with cobras at the track, is that 1/2 slack is misleading. According to all of them you need a 1/2 inch flex in the cable...meaning being able to pull it side to side inside the inspection cover... NOT 1/2 back and forth..

Adjusting the cable to 1/2 flex equals little or NO free play in the pedal thu eliminating the need for a freeplay kit...at least for its original purpose.

I am going to one more shop to try and figure out why my car wont shift and I will definetely post what they recommend for cable adjustment. Im probably going to WIcked Motorsports here in NJ. They work on only mustangs.

 

[Juruense]

Please update the thread with what you learn. I would love to know the real deal on clutch adjustment...

 

[SnakeBit]

As far as free play is concerned, if you pull the inspection cover, and grab the end of the cable, if you can pull it away from the fork any small bit (no matter how small), then you have free play. I just find it easier to have some freeplay in the clutch pedal, rather than jacking up the car and dragging my fat butt underneath.

When there is freeplay, the Clutch pressure plate fingers will relax and push the TOB towards the back of the car. However, they will only push it back until there is no pressure on those fingers. That means that the TOB can still be in light contact. One of 2 things will happen, either the TOB will turn with the fingers, or the fingers will turn while the tob stays stationary. In the best case, they will lightly score the face of the tob. In the worst case, they will etch into the face and eventually wear through.

Enter the LDC Freeplay Spring. When the cable is relaxed, it will push the clutch arm back as far as it can. Since the clutch arm has the TOB captured, it will also pull it back as far as it can. All you REALLY need is for it to pull the tob back enough so the pressure plate fingers are no longer in contact with the forward face of the tob.

As a side benefit, the LDC spring, when adjusted correctly, can keep enough tension on the cable to keep the pedal at it's full height, thereby eliminating any vibrations (which can drive an Anal-Retentive person batsh*t crazy).

Maybe that will help some of you understand the concept. I may try to draw up some pictures to help the rest.

 

[silvercoffin]

...

I agree for the preservation of the tOB and health of the clutch it may still be a good idea, but as for pedal freeplay...if adjusted as described by the mag. and shops across NJ. there should 1/2 inch of flex in the cable. Yes the way the car is designed this will lead to possible TOB wear, but its the way the car is designed.

With 1/2 flex in the cable your pedal will not have freeplay...it will have enough freeplay that the clutch wont disengage until you press the pedal down an inch or so but the pedal cant vibrate when adjusted like this.

I called another "Mustang" Shop here in NJ and they recommended the same adjustment as JDM Engineering did. 1/2 inch flex in the cable (...NOT 1/2 fork movement back and forth..)

The last mechanic I used said he thought this discussion is pointless because he said... the car should still shift even if the cable is off slightly.

My car has intermittent harsh/sloppy shifting that makes it impossible to get down the 1/4 mile anymore.

I emailed Spec about all this and they think bell housing alignment could definetely be an issue in my case. Now I just have to find a shop that is willing to look at that for me.

 

[Dana]

If the adjustment is too tight, that is there is not enough freeplay, the car should shift properly if there is nothing wrong with either the trans or the clutch or the alignment of the bellhousing.

There can be reasons other than adjustment that can cause hard shifting. For instance, the pressure plate surface can be warped and even though it appears to be adjusted correctly or even on the tight side, it won't fully release because the surface is warped and stays just slightly in contact with the disk. This can also be true with the flywheel, but is much less likely.
Also,
The center of the disk could be bent and be forcing the disk to run not true to the flywheel/PP surfaces, also causing an extreme amount of travel be used to allow full release. The Cobra clutch isn't capable of this much travel, in most cases.
I'm not saying this is the case in your car. I'm just pointing out that there are more reasons than appear on the surface that can cause hard shifting.

As far as what others are telling you about the side to side movement of the cable:
If the bearing is touching the PP fingers, it is too tight. If it isn't, then it isn't too tight. It may not be loose enough to not cause other problems, but they won't show up during shifting, but they will show up elsewhere, sooner or later.
No current production Ford car, that I know of, has a TOB that is designed to be in constant contact with the pressure plate. Some may last longer than others, but none will survive for long. Bearings are made for this purpose, but these aren't them.

 

[S.V.T.]

i love mine.. nice and simple, and it keeps a little bit of slack (not loose) before the pedal actively starts to engage the clutch.. cheap insurance knowing you're saving your tob..

 

[Scottyk]

Is it possible that some of the aftermarket quad's actually have more throw than a stock one?? and wouldnt that result in a over-thrown pressure plate "disengage it too far" and hurt the pressure plate springs?

 

[SnakeBit]

Is it possible that some of the aftermarket quad's actually have more throw than a stock one?? and wouldnt that result in a over-thrown pressure plate "disengage it too far" and hurt the pressure plate springs?

There are "QR" quadrants (I know for sure that Steeda and UPR make them). They have a higher ramp profile so any movement of the pedal results in more movement at the clutch arm than a standard quadrant will. Some clutches may require a QR quadrant to work properly/better (my Spec 3+ is a good example).

As far as hurting the PP springs, I doubt that a QR quad would, but anything is possible. However, if adjusted correctly, it probably would not.