What is your idle at with your Dragon TB?

What is your idle at with your Dragon?

  • 750 - 850 (stock)

    Votes: 10 37.0%
  • 850 - 950

    Votes: 5 18.5%
  • 950 - 1050

    Votes: 4 14.8%
  • 1050 - 1150

    Votes: 6 22.2%
  • 1150 - 1250

    Votes: 1 3.7%
  • 1250 +

    Votes: 1 3.7%

  • Total voters
    27

suaveflooder

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Couple questions, Kev. I have a SCT3 tuner Is the IACDC what I am looking at in the data log? Also, is this something I can change myself or am I going to need to get with my tuner to change these settings?
huqajyva.jpg
 
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04sleeper

Runs On "Liquid Gold"
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Couple questions, Kev. I have a SCT3 tuner Is the IACDC what I am looking at in the data log? Also, is this something I can change myself or am I going to need to get with my tuner to change these settings?
That is correct. But you will have to get with your tuner to make these adjustments. I don't believe it can be adjusted with the handheld under options. Ideally you want the DC to be a little higher so that the IAC valve can control the air for idle. The throttle stop also MUST rest on the adjuster screw. If it does not come all the way back to the stop it will always be in a different spot and the computer will not know what "Closed TB" is supposed to be.

Also you need to datalog your Idle air integrator. It can be adjusted until it is as close to 0 as possible. (This is done through the tune as well)


The other thing with some SB TB's is that the blade sometimes contacts the housing and can cause it to bind before reaching the stop. This must be addressed before doing any of the setting procedures.
 

suaveflooder

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That is correct. But you will have to get with your tuner to make these adjustments. I don't believe it can be adjusted with the handheld under options. Ideally you want the DC to be a little higher so that the IAC valve can control the air for idle. The throttle stop also MUST rest on the adjuster screw. If it does not come all the way back to the stop it will always be in a different spot and the computer will not know what "Closed TB" is supposed to be.

Also you need to datalog your Idle air integrator. It can be adjusted until it is as close to 0 as possible. (This is done through the tune as well)


The other thing with some SB TB's is that the blade sometimes contacts the housing and can cause it to bind before reaching the stop. This must be addressed before doing any of the setting procedures.

Thank you very much Kevin! Gonna shoot Greg an email and see when I get get in! :beer: The screw is set correctly, and the blade is slightly open to prevent the bind.
 
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04sleeper

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Thank you very much Kevin! Gonna shoot Greg an email and see when I get get in! :beer: The screw is set correctly, and the blade is slightly open to prevent the bind.
Good deal. As long as the blade opens and closes freely with the car off you should be OK.

The settings for the IAC need to be adjusted. Also, if you experience the RPM's drop either too fast or too slow when driving, then the Dashpot needs to be addressed as well.

Sometimes settings are closer on some cars than others. All are different though.
 

MalcolmV8

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There is not one aftermarket single blade throttle body out there that will close and seal exactly like the factory twin bore throttle body. The factory twin bore throttle body has round blades and the singles have oval. By nature the single will never seal the same way a twin bore will.

Hold a stock throttle body up to the light and see how much light shines through around the blades. Now do the same with the aftermarket. You will see what I am talking about.

This is exactly correct and to confirm what Kevin is saying I sealed up my whipple mono blade with some of my kids play-doh to confirm without a doubt it was air leaking by the blade that was causing the high idle.

IMAG1302_resized.jpg


Once that was confirmed I moved on to all the usual steps and for me I had to adjust the idle air integrator in the tune as well as remove some timing at idle and now my car idles correctly.
 

suaveflooder

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This is exactly correct and to confirm what Kevin is saying I sealed up my whipple mono blade with some of my kids play-doh to confirm without a doubt it was air leaking by the blade that was causing the high idle.

IMAG1302_resized.jpg


Once that was confirmed I moved on to all the usual steps and for me I had to adjust the idle air integrator in the tune as well as remove some timing at idle and now my car idles correctly.

Nice!!! Thanks for your post Malcolm! Waiting to hear from my tuner!:beer:
 

Co-brat

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Have you tried billet flows instructions to set the idle?? Did you adjust the throttle screw?? I know it's a dragon TB but their procedure worked for me.

x2, I have a Billetflow as well but I followed this to a T and my car runs dead nuts perfect at 800. No surging or fluxuation at all. I as well just let the car idle for about 10 plus minutes without touching the throttle once after I made the adjustment.
 

suaveflooder

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checked everything today, found out my TPS voltage was .985 Not bad, but not ideal. Slotted the TPS more and got it down to .96 and adjusted it according to billetflow's directions. We'll see....already back to where I was before and I've only driven it once since reset. For some reason, I'm not hearing from my tuner :( That will be my last step hopefully.....
 

highcompression

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It's all in the tune. My Dragon idles rock solid stock (750-800). Even after WOT shutdown, cold, hot, etc. it's perfect. Got the Posi going on soon, hopefully my new tune will be as good as current with 60's, bap, mafia, blower, etc.

This is the type of stuff that makes a tuner or a "tooner" ..........
 
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