Wheel spacers!

Which wheel spacers...

  • H&R

    Votes: 51 34.9%
  • Undy

    Votes: 9 6.2%
  • Maximum Motorsports

    Votes: 46 31.5%
  • Other (specify type and opinion)

    Votes: 40 27.4%

  • Total voters
    146
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KiLLaBytE

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Call this stupid...
Call me too lazy to research...

HOWEVER, i know there are others out there who this will also help, and a poll just makes it easier to get a consensus than sifting through 100 replies. ANYWAY...

I'm going to be getting wheel spacers soon enough and am wondering what seem to be the best out there? I'm currently leaning towards the H&R solution.
I'm looking for spacers that will obviously hold well, for street and track use. Track use will need to be able to hold 1.5-1.6 60's on slicks without snapping a wheel stud, etc.

Input?!
 
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Torch Red 10th

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Basically, the H&R's are the easy way out. They do make the tire sit out farther than the others on the AFS 10.5's, but it solves all clearance issues and it looks awesome in person. You don't have to change wheel studs, they're HUBCENTRIC, and they are the best quality spacer you can buy. They make 9" wide wheels look 100% better on the car too.

I've checked on mine 4 times since October. Not one loose bolt, and absolutely zero signs of any rust anywhere.

If you have any questions about the quality or integrity of the H&R spacers for track use, call these guys: Livermore Performance. They are located in California and have run 25mm H&R spacers on a '95 Cobra R at Laguna Seca on many occasions. The guys there are very helpful. I would assume if they could hold up to road-racing at Laguna Seca, they could hold up to the strip. A member on here has a KB on his Cobra running H&R 25mm spacers and Nitto DR's mounted on AFS 10.5's with no problems.
 

esqeddy

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I got the H&R 25mm spacers for the rear. I put them on with my 17X9 AFS and I really love the way the rear fender well looks so much fuller. I bought them with the intention of later going with a 10.5 set of rear wheels. Although I may do this in time, frankly, I see little need to do so. I believe the bulk of the 10.5 and any 315s would go to the inside and not make my stance look any wider. The only reason I would now drop $$ in another set of rears wheels and tires (about $700.00) would be to get more street traction. For the strip, I can get slicks and run them on the factory wheels I have left over. In fact, I have a set of Nitto DRs on two of them now.

So, for a little over $100.00, you get these great spacers and you have accomplished visually 90% of what putting the 10.5 & 315s on the car does. Not a bad deal. As for performance, not the first problem or concern. Have run them on the street and the strip.
 
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torqued

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Running 1/4 inch spacer from M&M. I’ve got AFS 10.5 inch wide with 315 BFG drags.
 

SWEET03COBRA

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Esgeddy, you said a little over $100? Tell me where I can buy H&R 1" spacers with lugs for that. I'm also looking to buy, thank you.
 

Trmin8r

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Torqued- Do you happen to have a pic of your car? I would like to see what that looks like. Or anyone else for that matter that has the wheels spacers and beefier tires in the rear.
Thanks!
 

03yellow

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They gave me mine... 1/2 inch. Looks to me like there is not a whole lot to a spacer.
I would like to have some longer lug nuts. Do they make long "locking" crome lugs???
 

Top_Fuel

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FYI information for guys running non-hubcentric (flat) spacers...



What is the difference between hubcentric and lugcentric spacers?


Hubcentric spacers have a recess that fits onto the hub as well as a protrusion that fits into the back of the wheel. When installed, a hubcentric spacer meshes with a section of the wheel and a section of the hub at the same time. The hub, spacer and wheel become mechanically joined together through the clamping force of the lugnuts.

Lugcentric spacers are completely flat. When installed, they only serve as a spacer and do not allow the hub and wheel to remain mechanically linked.



Which is better: hubcentric or lugcentric spacers?


Hubcentric spacers are strongly preferred. Because they become directly linked with both the wheel and hub, hubcentric spacers have two distinct advantages:

1. The wheel will always be perfectly centered on the hub when the spacer is installed.
2. The load on the wheel is transferred through the spacer directly to the wheel hub. This is because the spacer is supporting the wheel while the hub supports the spacer.

Lugcentric spacers, on the other hand, rely on the studs to center and support the wheel. The wheel load is then transferred through the wheel studs instead of the hub. This can cause stresses on the OEM studs for which they were not designed. The result may be accelerated fatigue or tension overload of the wheel studs. When over-stressed, wheel studs WILL eventually break.

Example: http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681


Here’s an interesting discussion of wheel spacer engineering and safety concerns:
http://realbig.com/detomaso/1998-11/53.html
 
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RRRR03Cobra

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I just purchased a set of 1" H&R spacers from Maximum Motorsports. I will let you know when I get them on. Waiting until I go to the track before mounting. I have seen three other cobras w/ the same spacer and they look great!
 

PDubs

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Where do I purchase good hubcentric ones? Waiting to see results too...
 
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KOOY

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So, if you go with a pair of 10.5 on the back, and no matter they are 17" or 18", the IRS bolts have to be ground even though you put on speacers, right?
 

pablo escobar

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KOOY said:
So, if you go with a pair of 10.5 on the back, and no matter they are 17" or 18", the IRS bolts have to be ground even though you put on speacers, right?

I also need an answer to this question.

Thanks.
 

stangd1909

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KOOY said:
So, if you go with a pair of 10.5 on the back, and no matter they are 17" or 18", the IRS bolts have to be ground even though you put on speacers, right?

No that is not right.... My 17-10.5 didn't even come close to the irs bolt. Every cobra is different, the only way to know for sure is to put them on and check.
 

mblgjr

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Mine DID HIT. I have AFS 17x10.5 with Nitto 315's. At full drop, the bolt rubbed pretty hard. I put in the Steeda button heads, they touch, but just very slightly, and they are rounded.

At ride height it will not rub with the stock bolt, its just at drop.

I need about an 1/8" to 1/4" spacer. The thinner the better.
 
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