Where to check oil pressure? Low oil pressure light--feeling sick to my stomach

[biminiLX]

Good and bad in life I guess.
Picked the car up with fresh 4.10s and new 8.8 bracing, was so happy to finally have silent rear gears and actually drive the car after 5 weeks.
I was planning on racing at NMCA Norwalk in 2 weeks, so my friend who is very knowledgeable and a former NMRA racer suggested we do some data logging.
Went to our normal test roads, and made a full pull in 3rd from 3000rpm to the top of 4th.
On the second pull, as soon as I shifted into 4th and started scanning the gauges I see the oil light come on.
Car making no funny noises, no smoke, just light.
Limped it into the closest gas station and shut down.
No leaks, no smoke, running fine except for increased valvetrain noise.

We looked at the data log and everything looks fine--high 10s a/f, -0.25 KR, etc.
Only problem is it says max RPM 7300!
I shift off the stock tach at what should be 65-6600. The stock tach sucks as far as numbering, but I've never let it go to 7 from my eye.
1) Could the stock tach be that far off? If it is, I've been routinely shifting the car the same way, NOTHING was different from multiple test passes on the same stretch of county road or at the track shifting at the same point on the tach.

2) Where can I hook up a mechanical pil pressure gauge? Is there a way to read actual oil pressure other than the factory 'low/normal/high'?

The car still has the oil light on, the read out says 'low' instead of normal and I have increased upper end noise.
No check engine lights, no smoke, no leaks, no bottom end noise.

I send the datalog if someone wants to look over it?
Kinda rambling now as my head is spinning.

Oil is fresh 10w30 Amsoil Racing Dominator (has 170 stat and only street/strip use, previous oil analysis from this oil was perfect).
Car was warmed up, fresh 93 octane Shell V-power with Torco, no KR on datalog.

Oil pump gears? valvetrain issue?
I'll try and have more info tomorrow, would love to put a mechanical gauge on it ASAP.
Any help appreciated
-J

 

[efroeh]

they just installed my oil pressure gauge its just above the oil filter theres a fitting you can t it and run you sensor or hose from there full warm at idle mine sees 20 psi. when cold 90 at idle i have the same oil as you also with amsoil filter.
Edit
we used this thread as a reference
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?779951-Oil-pressure-gauge

 

[NELCO]

Why are you running 10-30?

 

[Turbosnake95]

Check oil pressure sensor and it's wire connection?

Hope your issue is something simple and easy to fix!

I am now using AMSOIL AZF 0W-40. UnleashedBeast stated it is a no compromise formulation. Been in the car a few thousand miles now and seems to be running very well.

 

[Snoopy49]

Oil pressure at 2,000 rpm (engine at normal operating temperature) 276-414 kPa (40-60 psi)

Oil Pressure Test

NOTICE: Inspect the engine for installation of an aftermarket oil filter. Review oil and filter maintenance history to make sure that the vehicle has not gone beyond the standard Ford recommended oil change intervals. Check the engine oil level and check the oil for contamination. If the oil is contaminated, engine damage can occur. The source of the contamination must be identified and repaired as necessary.

1. Disconnect and remove the Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) switch from the engine. Refer to the appropriate section in Group 303 for the procedure.
2. Connect the Oil Pressure Gauge to the oil pressure port.
3. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached.
4. With the engine at idle record the gauge reading.
5. Run the engine at 2,000 rpm and record the gauge reading.
6. The oil pressure should be within specifications; refer to the specifications in the appropriate engine section.
7. If the pressure is not within specification, GO to Pinpoint Test A .

 

[2011 gtcs]

I hope everything is biminiLX, keep us posted

 

[biminiLX]

I hope everything is biminiLX, keep us posted

I was rambling last night, probably from going straight to cold beer after my buddy left, because I'm pretty sure what happened---broken oil pump gears
At least that's what I'm thinking, just need to confirm.
I'm just mad that I haven't been data logging as much after Lund reviewed my datalogs at the track and it looked fine, so I've just been driving it the same way as no mods changed BUT if my normal shift below 7 on the stock tach is really spiking to 7300rpm, then my oil pump gears have been on borrowed time at 755rwhp and 7000+ shifts.
I also don't think Lund keeps a hard rev limiter, so bummer.
If it is the oil pump gears, I'm wondering if there's any chance I didn't hurt hard parts.
The motor is coming out so I'll be doing rods and cams, but it will wait until late winter as we are breaking ground on a pole barn/car shop next month, meeting the tree guy to start clearing the lot this morning, so again some good in the bad
I'm guessing the speed shift 3-4 then oil light in middle of 4th gear means the gears broke on the 3-4 shift?
-J

 

[Catmonkey]

Hopefully it's just a sending unit. If it's lit because of low oil pressure, the OEM sending unit probably triggers a light at 10 psi. I'd just remove the stock sending unit and mount a mechanical gauge in its place. If you get the same result you're not going anywhere anyway. If pressure is good, replace the sending unit.

If you're looking for a more permanent solution for a mechanical gauge, look at Shelby's oil adapter manifold.

 

[biminiLX]

Thank you, that part is already on my EBay SA store watch list.
-J

 

[93 347 Cobra]

Damn this sucks, I was really looking forward to your report on your upgraded 8.8 and then this happens. Sounds like you caught it very quickly and hopefully no damage occurred. I would be inclined to think oil pump gears also.

 

[Ky GT500]

Following this as that's 700-800 off from factory which is self implosion territory for a lot of us.

 

[Bad Company]

Hopefully you have a failed sensor, but if your luck is as bad as mine it will be something worse.

Check my thread also J, as I answered your questions on the timing chain upgrades this morning.

 

[2011 gtcs]

Following this as that's 700-800 off from factory which is self implosion territory for a lot of us.

I was honestly thinking the same thing, especially for me with the KB, I don't want to be revving my engine to much over 6,200rpms. I guess as i continue my data logging I'll keep a close eye on my engine RPMS from the log.

 

[Bad Company]

Hopefully it's just a sending unit. If it's lit because of low oil pressure, the OEM sending unit probably triggers a light at 10 psi. I'd just remove the stock sending unit and mount a mechanical gauge in its place. If you get the same result you're not going anywhere anyway. If pressure is good, replace the sending unit.

If you're looking for a more permanent solution for a mechanical gauge, look at Shelby's oil adapter manifold.

Catmonkey are you referring to this part? http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/7S3Z-9B339-SC.htm

From what I've read on AutoMeter's website they would prefer that all the pressure sensors sending units to be remote located on the firewall to limit vibration of the sending unit. This SA manifold would be the way to do that.

You could also buy 2 of the Fore Innovation manifold logs for the boost/vacuum gauge and fuel pressure gauge to remote mount them also

http://www.foreinnovations.com/product_p/31-100.htm

 

[Catmonkey]

Catmonkey are you referring to this part? http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/7S3Z-9B339-SC.htm

Yep, that's it. Don't know why it wouldn't work on a '13-'14 as it's listed as '07-'12. I have it on my 5.8, but I'm using the factory '12 oil cooler assembly.

 

[biminiLX]

Thanks everyone, I'm hoping to get a mechanical gauge on this week, maybe tomorrow.

Following this as that's 700-800 off from factory which is self implosion territory for a lot of us.

Definitely hear you there, I am trying my best to guess where in the unmarked gauge is 6600 and shift there, and I'm a quick speed shifter so I'm not seeing or appreciating any RPM flair, not that it couldn't. I wasn't doing a power shifting with no throttle lift on this pass, and got out of 4th way below 7000 on the tach.
I'm wondering if the clutch slips up to 7300 on the shift or my sticky BPS throttle body hung a sec on the 3-4 shift, also need to look at the logs again where the 7300 spike is.
Funny I've been worried about the rods and detonation with this combo on pump gas (at least log showed no KR and safe a/f with 17.5 degrees timing on Torco/93), but just ASSumed the oil pump gears would hold if I didn't rev over 7000.
Hope to have a happy update soon, otherwise I'll be pulling the trigger way earlier than expected on a bottom end build with cams, rods (both planned from JDM to keep the stock Pistons), TSSpil pump gears and potential head/intake porting, inter cooler upgrade, clutch, etc .
-J
:beer:

 

[biminiLX]

Check oil pressure sensor and it's wire connection?

Hope your issue is something simple and easy to fix!

I am now using AMSOIL AZF 0W-40. UnleashedBeast stated it is a no compromise formulation. Been in the car a few thousand miles now and seems to be running very well.

Thanks for PMs, I cleared out space if you had a few blocked.
-J

 

[Bad Company]

Thanks everyone, I'm hoping to get a mechanical gauge on this week, maybe tomorrow.



Definitely hear you there, I am trying my best to guess where in the unmarked gauge is 6600 and shift there, and I'm a quick speed shifter so I'm not seeing or appreciating any RPM flair, not that it couldn't. I wasn't doing a power shifting with no throttle lift on this pass, and got out of 4th way below 7000 on the tach.
I'm wondering if the clutch slips up to 7300 on the shift or my sticky BPS throttle body hung a sec on the 3-4 shift, also need to look at the logs again where the 7300 spike is.
Funny I've been worried about the rods and detonation with this combo on pump gas (at least log showed no KR and safe a/f with 17.5 degrees timing on Torco/93), but just ASSumed the oil pump gears would hold if I didn't rev over 7000.
Hope to have a happy update soon, otherwise I'll be pulling the trigger way earlier than expected on a bottom end build with cams, rods (both planned from JDM to keep the stock Pistons), TSSpil pump gears and potential head/intake porting, inter cooler upgrade, clutch, etc .
-J
:beer:

You should contact Lund to see where the rev limiter is and whether it is a soft limiter of him closing the throttle blades. Or a hard limit of it dropping cylinders to stop RPMs at a certain point. With this car having a stock bottom end I would think he did a hard limit at 7000 similar to the factory limit and a soft limit above 6500. from my understanding he is very conservative and I doubt that he would knowingly allow a stock bottom end engine to go past the 7000RPM limit under any circumstances. I would also think the tach is taking all readings off of the PMC for an input signal and would follow the engine closely. I find it hard to believe they would be this far apart from each other, unless there is a problem with the tach starting to fail, or the pulse signal from the PMC to the tach is having a voltage issue

 

[spruce]

good luck, hopefully its a sensor but the valve train noise makes me think its something worse

 

[biminiLX]

You should contact Lund to see where the rev limiter is and whether it is a soft limiter of him closing the throttle blades. Or a hard limit of it dropping cylinders to stop RPMs at a certain point. With this car having a stock bottom end I would think he did a hard limit at 7000 similar to the factory limit and a soft limit above 6500. from my understanding he is very conservative and I doubt that he would knowingly allow a stock bottom end engine to go past the 7000RPM limit under any circumstances. I would also think the tach is taking all readings off of the PMC for an input signal and would follow the engine closely. I find it hard to believe they would be this far apart from each other, unless there is a problem with the tach starting to fail, or the pulse signal from the PMC to the tach is having a voltage issue

Thanks Kurt, I appreciate it and the PM info!
Anyone want to read the datalog, I'm not an expert with them and can forward you what my friend sent, send me an email:
drjotting@yahoo
-J