Which Spec Clutch??

[129saleen]

What does everyone think would be the best clutch for my car?:shrug:

I'm thinking I need a Spec stage 2, 2+, or 3.. I don't think I need any higher..

I'm making ~530rwhp/~550rwtq... I want a good clutch for street and track since I'll be going a couple times this year..

All input is greatly appreciated.:beer:

 

[CobraKid04]

spec 3+ I just insalled it on mine. You pay a little more but, it holds like a bitch. O and very steetable better than 3.

 

[03Gunner]

I just ordered the Stage 3+ with 26 spline, aluminum flywheel, Pro 5.0 shifter, and the infamous TOB sleeve.

I'll let you know soon what I think of it. From what I've read the 3+ performs like a Stage 5 but street wise drives as good or better than Stage 3. Rated up to 800 lbs of torque.

With all the research I've done it appears the best bang for the buck, and worth the extra cost.

:burn:

 

[Jomo1994z71]

spec 3

 

[FlaSeaDude]

I voted "other" and my vote is for a SPEC dual-disc clutch...

 

[WizardsCobra]

I wouldn't do anything less then a Spec 3+ at your RWHP.

 

[SnakeBit]

Spec 3+ here. But throw away the TOB that Spec includes. Too many here have had a problem with that TOB. I bought a Ford HD from Steve at Toulsey Ford. Also installed the LDC Free Play Spring. So far, I love the Spec 3+. Bought most of the parts from Lethal. I'd recommend them as well. Jared will do your right.

 

[69gt4speed]

I have a 26 splined 3+ and a spec lpr p/p w supporting stuff. Due to my left foot being broken recently the stock p/p sucked and was slipping due to the spray. So w the 3+ it holds and is easier to push in. A first somewhat grabby/chatter but pretty good now w 1.5k on it. I know a 97 cobra guy running a 2+ at approx 420 rwhp it's holding ok. I considered that but wasn't sure if it would hold w the power on spray. Our cars are heavier also, a factor to consider. Another guy I know just bought a 03 cobra for a d/d summer car so I got in and tried the clutch, holy sh-t that thing is hard to push in, I got spoiled.

 

[SVT0369]

I voted "other" and my vote is for a SPEC dual-disc clutch...

+1 That is what I'll be getting soon

 

[fiveoh2go]

spec 3+ I just insalled it on mine. You pay a little more but, it holds like a bitch. O and very steetable better than 3.

+1. Excellent street manners with less pedal effort than stock and a whole lot more grip!

 

[M240Bravo]

Spec 3+ here. But throw away the TOB that Spec includes. Too many here have had a problem with that TOB. I bought a Ford HD from Steve at Toulsey Ford. Also installed the LDC Free Play Spring. So far, I love the Spec 3+. Bought most of the parts from Lethal. I'd recommend them as well. Jared will do your right.

Whats wrong with the spec TOB and whats a ford HD and LDC free play spring?

 

[04sleeper]

i voted "other" and my vote is for a spec dual-disc clutch...

+2

 

[SnakeBit]

Whats wrong with the spec TOB and whats a ford HD and LDC free play spring?

I don't know what's wrong, but several who have installed it when they did their clutch reported it crapped out after a short while, so I just avoided it.

The LDC Freeplay is a spring and a bushing. It is installed on the transmission side between the boss which holds that end of the cable still on the transmission, and the clutch arm. As designed, Ford has the TOB lightly touching the pressure plate fingers all of the time. This makes the TOB turn all the time and makes it wear out prematurely. In addition, by it's constant turning, it can cause the TOB Retainer tube (tube the TOB slides back and forth on) to also fail prematurely. At 20K miles, my TOB tube broke and forced me to go into the transmission, so I replaced everything even though my stock clutch had a lot of life left.

The theory behind the Freeplay spring is to adjust your clutch so the TOB can be pulled slightly away from the P/P fingers. The spring will force that when the pedal has been let out. Without the spring, the TOB will be pushed towards the back of the car, but only until the P/P fingers have relaxed. This can still let the TOB drag on the fingers. But be aware that it was designed to work with an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. I cannot say that it will work with the oem Ford setup.

There has been a lot of discussion about the concept because Ford designed the setup to work with the TOB always against the P/P. However, there is a long history of TOB's going out well before the clutch does, and on the 03/04's, the TOB retainer tube also has a long history of failure. In my case, it broke off at the transmission side. This allowed the tube to rub against the input shaft, and if left alone, would wear groves in the input shaft. My symptom was a banging down at the transmission which changed with pressure on the clutch pedal. I went underneath and pulled the inspection cover at the clutch arm. It is only suppose to move towards the front and back of the car, but mine moved up and down as well. The banging was the clutch arm hitting the bottom edge of the opening at the transmission bellhousing. Given Ford's "self adjusting clutch" (not really an accurate description), the only way it could work is if the TOB was always touching the P/P. Once you switch to an aftermarked quad and FW adjuster, the LDC Freeplay spring makes sense. I adjust mine so that the TOB can be pulled away from the P/P enough so it stops spinning. Easy to see by looking through the inspection cover with a flashlight. Doing this will increase the life of the TOB and the retainer tube so they will last at least as long as the clutch does.

Sorry for the long post, but I'm an engineer, not a Republican Politician, so a simple answer just isn't in my DNA. :beer:

 

[04SLOBRA1]

3+ spec

 

[M240Bravo]

I don't know what's wrong, but several who have installed it when they did their clutch reported it crapped out after a short while, so I just avoided it.

The LDC Freeplay is a spring and a bushing. It is installed on the transmission side between the boss which holds that end of the cable still on the transmission, and the clutch arm. As designed, Ford has the TOB lightly touching the pressure plate fingers all of the time. This makes the TOB turn all the time and makes it wear out prematurely. In addition, by it's constant turning, it can cause the TOB Retainer tube (tube the TOB slides back and forth on) to also fail prematurely. At 20K miles, my TOB tube broke and forced me to go into the transmission, so I replaced everything even though my stock clutch had a lot of life left.

The theory behind the Freeplay spring is to adjust your clutch so the TOB can be pulled slightly away from the P/P fingers. The spring will force that when the pedal has been let out. Without the spring, the TOB will be pushed towards the back of the car, but only until the P/P fingers have relaxed. This can still let the TOB drag on the fingers. But be aware that it was designed to work with an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. I cannot say that it will work with the oem Ford setup.

There has been a lot of discussion about the concept because Ford designed the setup to work with the TOB always against the P/P. However, there is a long history of TOB's going out well before the clutch does, and on the 03/04's, the TOB retainer tube also has a long history of failure. In my case, it broke off at the transmission side. This allowed the tube to rub against the input shaft, and if left alone, would wear groves in the input shaft. My symptom was a banging down at the transmission which changed with pressure on the clutch pedal. I went underneath and pulled the inspection cover at the clutch arm. It is only suppose to move towards the front and back of the car, but mine moved up and down as well. The banging was the clutch arm hitting the bottom edge of the opening at the transmission bellhousing. Given Ford's "self adjusting clutch" (not really an accurate description), the only way it could work is if the TOB was always touching the P/P. Once you switch to an aftermarked quad and FW adjuster, the LDC Freeplay spring makes sense. I adjust mine so that the TOB can be pulled away from the P/P enough so it stops spinning. Easy to see by looking through the inspection cover with a flashlight. Doing this will increase the life of the TOB and the retainer tube so they will last at least as long as the clutch does.

Sorry for the long post, but I'm an engineer, not a Republican Politician, so a simple answer just isn't in my DNA. :beer:

Where can I get the spring and bushing?

 

[69gt4speed]

Lethal or if like me you find a conical spring that will wrok.

 

[FlaSeaDude]

Where can I get the spring and bushing?

From Lethal Performance:

http://www.lethalperformance.com/pa...bra-transmission-ldc-clutch-freeplay-mod.html

While visiting their website, check out all the other stuff you'll probably need (flywheel, clutch/pressure plate, TOB, pilot bearing, TOB retainer sleeve, 26-spline input shaft, etc.)... :beer:

 

[SnakeBit]

If you get a new flywheel, also get new bolts (TTY shouldn't be reused). :beer:

 

[M240Bravo]

From Lethal Performance:

http://www.lethalperformance.com/pa...bra-transmission-ldc-clutch-freeplay-mod.html

While visiting their website, check out all the other stuff you'll probably need (flywheel, clutch/pressure plate, TOB, pilot bearing, TOB retainer sleeve, 26-spline input shaft, etc.)... :beer:

Thanks man!:beer:

If you get a new flywheel, also get new bolts (TTY shouldn't be reused). :beer:

What the bolts don't come with the new flywheel?

 

[SinisterX]

3+