Which steel flywheel with my new clutch?

svtjoe123

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Fidanza billet steel flywheel with serviceable insert for $259
Spec billet steel for $284
Ram billet steel for $284
Ford Racing billet steel for $299

I've decided to just go billet steel for better verifiability with my spec 3+ since it is mostly street driven with very rare track visits. But they're all within $50 of eachother so I can't decide. The only one that seems like anything special is the fidanza because of it's replaceable friction material like factory.

Thanks for any input :beer:
 

'03snkbt

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i went RAM and have no issues. most people go Fidanza. i guess its just preference
 

SlowSVT

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Why not a lightweight aluminum flywheel? A heavy flywheel will soak-up hp every time you press the gas pedal. The stock flywheel only weighs 11 lbs allowing the engine to wined-up faster and send more of the power straight to the drive shaft.
 

Shadow Grey 03

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Why not a lightweight aluminum flywheel? A heavy flywheel will soak-up hp every time you press the gas pedal. The stock flywheel only weighs 11 lbs allowing the engine to wined-up faster and send more of the power straight to the drive shaft.

It also makes it more of a pain to launch the car at the strip. Just depends on what your preference is.
 

earico

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Why not a lightweight aluminum flywheel? A heavy flywheel will soak-up hp every time you press the gas pedal. The stock flywheel only weighs 11 lbs allowing the engine to wined-up faster and send more of the power straight to the drive shaft.

Steel retains more energy after contact with the clutch disc making it easier to take off.....retains more energy between shifts once going. IMO its better for drag only. But you're right that it comes at the cost of power loss. Just comes down to preference.
 

svtjoe123

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Well I already bought a used factory flywheel that I was going to send out to McLeod to have the heat shield replaced, but I was second guessing myself. But as slowsvt pointed out it probably is a better idea to just stick with the stock piece.
 

SlowSVT

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Steel retains more energy after contact with the clutch disc making it easier to take off.....retains more energy between shifts once going. IMO its better for drag only. But you're right that it comes at the cost of power loss. Just comes down to preference.



A heavy flywheel "absorbs" more energy then stores it. Once the clutch locks to the PP all the energy stored on the flywheel has been expended and from then on it's a "burden" to the engine all the way up to redline :uh oh: A heavy flywheel only benefit is helping the car overcome inertia. This car has an abundance of low end torque and needs no help from the flywheel :rockon: The power robbed by a 30 lb flywheel will show up on a dyno.
 

Posi

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I did a "steel" flywheel years ago because it was for drag racing and that's what people recommended. WRONG.

If you don't have a good clutch that you can slip a little bit and you have to dump it, it hits the tires to hard on the hit in my opinion. I always thought that for the 3 or 4 years that it was in the car. If I'd have stayed with a 6spd in my car it was getting a lightened flywheel.
 

svtjoe123

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Like I said in a later post Brian I have one of the factory Ford McLeod flywheels that I bought used, I just have to send it out to McLeod to have the "heat shield" replaced.
 

earico

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A heavy flywheel "absorbs" more energy then stores it. Once the clutch locks to the PP all the energy stored on the flywheel has been expended and from then on it's a "burden" to the engine all the way up to redline :uh oh: A heavy flywheel only benefit is helping the car overcome inertia. This car has an abundance of low end torque and needs no help from the flywheel :rockon: The power robbed by a 30 lb flywheel will show up on a dyno.

Once the clutch is fully engaged yes the extra rotational mass burdens the engine to redline. We all know that. That's why I said it was a tradeoff in power lost.

But you're telling me that on the start line with the clutch disengaged at 4,000 rpm on the 2 step waiting for the green light to drop that the steel flywheel will not store more kinetic energy than the lighter aluminum? That's basic physics.
 

svtjoe123

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Yes it will store more kinetic energy, that is one of the reasons I was kind of scared to get one. It seems the guys with the aluminum flywheels get the "bog when they let the clutch out off the line. I believe that this bog helps save the 10 spline input shafts and the rear axle shafts from snapping at launch. It also seems that the guys with steel flywheels break more driveline related parts when launching....
 

earico

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Yes it will store more kinetic energy, that is one of the reasons I was kind of scared to get one. It seems the guys with the aluminum flywheels get the "bog when they let the clutch out off the line. I believe that this bog helps save the 10 spline input shafts and the rear axle shafts from snapping at launch. It also seems that the guys with steel flywheels break more driveline related parts when launching....

That's why I said I would do it for drag only. If you are still on the IRS and 10 spline input then you aren't really a hardcore drag racer.

SRA and 26 spline input and slicks I say go for it.
 

SlowSVT

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Once the clutch is fully engaged yes the extra rotational mass burdens the engine to redline. We all know that. That's why I said it was a tradeoff in power lost.

But you're telling me that on the start line with the clutch disengaged at 4,000 rpm on the 2 step waiting for the green light to drop that the steel flywheel will not store more kinetic energy than the lighter aluminum? That's basic physics.

:nono: Never stated anywhere that a heavy flywheel won't store more energy but in doing so will hurt far more often than it helps.

What with the 2 step analogy? A lot of Terminator owners assume we are only interested hard launches and don't take into account that 99.98% of the miles put on these cars is on the street. A street car modeled after a road racer is much more of a hoot to drive then one that just goes fast in a straight line IMO.
 

earico

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:nono: Never stated anywhere that a heavy flywheel won't store more energy but in doing so will hurt far more often than it helps.

What with the 2 step analogy? A lot of Terminator owners assume we are only interested hard launches and don't take into account that 99.98% of the miles put on these cars is on the street. A street car modeled after a road racer is much more of a hoot to drive then one that just goes fast in a straight line IMO.

I agree. That's why my first post said drag only. :shrug:

That's also why I still have my IRS with FTBR bushings and stock aluminum flywheel.
 
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Tims97SVT

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Aluminum only. Our cars hit way to hard as it is. Lighter flywheel and less clutch so you don't hit the tires too hard like Posi said.
 

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