whipple what do i do?

CKERR134

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now what would happen if i put a whipple on my truck right now can it handle it? i dont want to go extreme i just want about high 400's to bottom 500hp and this is my daily driver
i have full exhaust and thats it
 

herb101

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Just like a pulley swap that adds boost - it's all in the tune. If you don't have the supporting cast down under, limit the boost and get a dyno tune that's conservative.

Herb
 

ronnie

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Fade 2 Black said:
With a twin screw you should be able to make over 400 with 10-12 psi and a decent tune without risking any failures.

+1

Might have to leave the stock crank pulley on and go with a 3.5 upper on the Whipple for that boost amount(10-12 psi). You would need to tell them that when you order one.
 

CKERR134

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Fade 2 Black said:
With a twin screw you should be able to make over 400 with 10-12 psi and a decent tune without risking any failures.


see thats what im thinking i know that the tune it the bread and butter to make these engines run right, i think i could get good numbers with a ported eaton and pulleys+tune. But there inlays a problem i love the sound of a whipple you can hear it coming a mile away, i think for know i should port the eaton because if i go whipple there is no going back and before long i will be diving in to the engine to make it stronger. Bottom line my wallet will hate me
 

herb101

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CKERR134 said:
... and before long i will be diving in to the engine to make it stronger. Bottom line my wallet will hate me

That's going to happen anyway. L's are like heroine and the is no methodone treatment for what we've got.

Herb
 

Fade 2 Black

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You are putting the entire engine under much greater strain to make the same power at 14-16# of boost compared to making it at 10-12#. I know money is an issue, always is but you can do the whipple or KB and be set for a long time to come. If I had it to do over again I'd get a FTVB first and a twin screw second along with a good tune of course. The power they generate is amazing compared to a poted eaton at 15-16# which I've done as well.
 

herb101

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Stinger2007 said:
What R U guys referring to when you say, "screw?"

It refers to the compressor design of the blower. The Eaton and old roots blowers (6-71, 8-71, etc). are lobe design, like a three leaf clover. The lobe of one rotor fits between two lobes of the other rotor. Some (like the Eaton) have a gradual twist to the rotors. Old roots blowers are straight rotors.

The KB and the Whipple are screw compressors where one rotor is "male" with lobes and the other is "female" with sockets for the lobes. The twist in the rotors is extreme (compared to the Eaton), making the rotors looks like screws (or twin-screws).

The reference to a "screw" blower differentiates it from a centrifigal (Vortech, Paxton,..) or a roots type (Eaton, BDS,...).

Herb
 

CKERR134

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Fade 2 Black said:
You are putting the entire engine under much greater strain to make the same power at 14-16# of boost compared to making it at 10-12#. I know money is an issue, always is but you can do the whipple or KB and be set for a long time to come. If I had it to do over again I'd get a FTVB first and a twin screw second along with a good tune of course. The power they generate is amazing compared to a poted eaton at 15-16# which I've done as well.


that helps alot because you have already been through it so you would know, thats the advice that helps.

i have had it for a while but i also have a 95gt and i put my money in that and drive the lightning everyday time for a change that cars 11 years old, it only has 40k on it but getting bored with it
 

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