Makes sense however my pedal does not stick nor does it go soft....if it did I would have no shot hitting the next two shifts.
You also have people like Shaun running 3.73 power shifting the 1-2 at 7500 on slicks with no issues. His engine with that gear and traction is def getting there faster than mine.
I'm still not convinced. If the acceleration forces cause the 1-2 lock outs but have no affect on 2-3 and 3-4 at the same rpm then what causes the 4-5? I don't usually do this shift as its 140 plus in my car however the couple times I tried it the shift could not be rushed and had plenty of resistance.
Your right, I forgot how to drive after installing the boss manifold. I posted my problems in my own 1-2 shift issue thread. If you read that thread maybe you will finally stop accusing me of not knowing how to shift.
The mcleod will fix the issue. I had one in my manual car and was hitting shifts north of 7500 no problem. Before that I was having the clutch pedal suck to the floor.
The motor spins quicker through the rpm band on a 1-2 and causes the plate to stick from centrifugal force. If you lower the shifts to where the stock clutch was designed to be shifted at and shifts fine, then the plate functions fine and allows shifts. The higher you spin something, the more force is exerted onto it and if not designed to take that you will get the affect almost everyone experiences with the pedal sticking to the floor/ or soft pedal from the plate not returning. You are most likely getting locked out in first because it exerts the most force on the clutch at high rpm on the 1-2 shift.
prothane motor mounts, and che make a engine torque limiter brace that limits engine movement and a mcleod rxt twin disc clutch:
View the V8 K-Member Brace with Engine Torque Limiters<br>Part # CHE7LA at http://www.cheperformance.com
You also have people like Shaun running 3.73 power shifting the 1-2 at 7500 on slicks with no issues. His engine with that gear and traction is def getting there faster than mine.
Your right, I forgot how to drive after installing the boss manifold. I posted my problems in my own 1-2 shift issue thread. If you read that thread maybe you will finally stop accusing me of not knowing how to shift.
I can WOT shift mine at 7800 with the CJ intake so far. It wasn't as easy as when I shifted at 6700 of course. But I made adjustments and since them no more issues. What I was experiencing on a couple shifts early on we my fault. Not the cars. I can admit it.
Here is my driving.
Forget the clutch for a second.
It is not about forgetting how to drive. It is adapting your driving to the car. You can shift at 6800. But things are different at 7800 rpm.
Look at it like this... imagine you are walking slow next to a white picket fence. You have a stick in your hand. Now as you walk by the fence poke the stick in and out of the empty space between the fence with out touching the posts. Very easy.
OK now walk at a faster pace. You can do it but it takes more effort to coordinate your speed, eyes and arm with the fence openings.
Now run next to the fence. It is impossible to do it. You miss most openings and hit the posts a lot.
This is the issue with a transmission. You have gears and syncros that need to mesh correctly to work. As rpm shifts go higher your actions have to be exponentially quicker to make every thing work smoother.
That is why racers use face plated transmissions. It allows a longer window of opportunity for engagement. So they are easier to drive and easier to be consistent with.
For me, WOT shifting is much easier than timing shifting. But I do quite alright with that too.