which type of head cooling mod is best?

I am wanting to put some form of cooling mod to the back of the drivers head.

which style is best.
1. The LDC Chicago / Apten style which ties the two heads together

or

2. The even flow style which sends the coolant back up front to the upper radiator hose

Think there is any difference?

I like the idea of connecting the two heads together so it is hidden.

Please take the vote above.

If you want something hidden, LDC is it. In my opinion, they both do essentially the same thing, just go about it a little differently. For most guys, it comes down to the installation. If you forsee clutch or tranny work in your future, do the LDC as it requires tranny removal. If you plan to pull your blower, do the Evenflow mod (although blower removal is not required...I've seen it done without and its not extremely difficult)

If you search head cooling mod, there's a number of really useful threads which should provide more insight.

Evenflow makes a lot more sense. It will be your best bet. You can see it but who cares at least you know it works.

EvenFlow

The Even Flow is a beauty. Thats the one I went with. I liek the idea of the coolant returning to the radiator and not getting into the flow path of the passenger head coolant as it goes into the heater core.

I am transplanting the 04 cobra motor and T56 in my 94 cobra. So I have the motor and trans currently out.
I have an extra pipe for the back of the head so could fab my own setup if I choose.

Anyone have that light tick before doing the head cooling mod and it going away after?

Just wondering, I don't have the aggressive, loud metal on metal type slap like some of the vids I've heard...but I have that tick that's coming from behind the front driver's side wheel and under the car.

Just wondering if anyone noticed the tick go away or become less noticeable after the cooling mod. :shrug:

CAll me weird but I have always liked the LDC mod the best. Stays out of the way, is rock solid & the components fit like a glove... ! :beer:

Evenflow can be done with everything including the SC left in. You will have to loosen some wire looms and take the drivers side fuel rail and smog bracket off the SC but that is pretty much it. Now that Evenflow is using the bolt down fitting it should really be a piece of cake!!

Kevin the Clean 1 said:

CAll me weird but I have always liked the LDC mod the best. Stays out of the way, is rock solid & the components fit like a glove... ! :beer:

Click to expand...

+1

I'm not convinced either is needed, but if I were to run one, it would be LDC Chicago. Reading the installation instructions should be enough to help make your decision...

If 7&8 are such a problem, why not 1&2, since the heads are the same casting? They don't become a left and a right head until they're machined. If the coolant is supposedly stagnating, why doesnt 5&6 have a problem, since the coolant flows from the water pump, through the block from front to back, up to the heads, and from back to front?

I'll shut up if someone can show me a cut-open head showing these mystical revised cooling passages between the early and late heads.

ShelbyGuy said:

I'm not convinced either is needed, but if I were to run one, it would be LDC Chicago. Reading the installation instructions should be enough to help make your decision...

If 7&8 are such a problem, why not 1&2, since the heads are the same casting? They don't become a left and a right head until they're machined. If the coolant is supposedly stagnating, why doesnt 5&6 have a problem, since the coolant flows from the water pump, through the block from front to back, up to the heads, and from back to front?

I'll shut up if someone can show me a cut-open head showing these mystical revised cooling passages between the early and late heads.

Click to expand...

From what I understand....and I could be wrong.....but, the passenger side head has a coolant drain. The driver's side doesn't, hence the static coolant just pooling up in 7&8 and why it doesn't do it on 1&2/pass. head because it can drain out.

EvenFlow

even flow here, and i would NOT recommend doing this mod without removing the blower.

I have the evenflow on both heads(the right side is not for the faint of heart).... but for your application with the motor and trans out there is no best.

Take a look at the two methods and pick what you like... The LDC is an excellent quality product.

To Shelby Guy...

There really has been no hard data.. except Don's recent data logs.

But I... like Lyle and Dan of LDC and DON of Evenflow.....think that as a result of the higher attrition of pistons in 7 and 8 a cooling enhancement for that side was a worthy adventure.

It has recently come to light that air flow enhancements are a very productive way of pulling out BTUs. And in fact if air flow is NOT enhanced on bigger rad cars it is quite likely not much additional cooling will be seen due to the higher resistance to air flow of the thicker core.

So right now I am a very big advocate of enhancing the pressure differential in front of and behind the rad as possible... with deeper wider air dams or enhanced venting... or BOTH.

best head cooling mod i found was to put the helmet in the ice chest before i put it on and hit a 120 degree track, no no just get'n stupid, actually i put the ldc or lcd or whatever because it was the only one out at the time, then came along evenflow. i like the idea of it going thru my heater, cause i run the heater full blast during or right after a big blast, the water temp stabilizes and comes down more quickly

I Have The EvenFlow and It is a great Kit But I don't recommend you doing it with the Blower on and be careful taking the Freeze plug out GL.

I ordered the evenflow partly due to the price and partly due to I like the idea of the coolant coming back to the radiator hose. I am going to be doing clutch and doing whipple, so both were viable options, but just killed me to pay $200 for two little fittings.

I have the evenflow, who cares if it seen. If you didn't know it was added you probably wouldn't know it was there or was factory.

ShelbyGuy said:

I'm not convinced either is needed, but if I were to run one, it would be LDC Chicago. Reading the installation instructions should be enough to help make your decision...

If 7&8 are such a problem, why not 1&2, since the heads are the same casting? They don't become a left and a right head until they're machined. If the coolant is supposedly stagnating, why doesnt 5&6 have a problem, since the coolant flows from the water pump, through the block from front to back, up to the heads, and from back to front?

I'll shut up if someone can show me a cut-open head showing these mystical revised cooling passages between the early and late heads.

Click to expand...

Just one question ShelbyGuy. Why do so many motors lose 7 & 8? I would think that if it was all bunk, then there would be a more equitable distribution of cylinders going south.

Those 2 cylinders have been a problem since the 4V came out in 96, but some have pointed out to me that the n/a motors suffered from a lean condition on 7&8 due to intake problems. Still, it seems strange to me.

Also, I remember Herman doing some temperature checking just before he moved from MD to FL, but it was done without the cooling mod. How about it Herman? Care to chime in and back me up or correct me (I'm old and all those years of drug and alcohol abuse may be affecting my mind)?