LDC here
which type of head cooling mod is best?
- Thread starter wldtang
- Start date
LDC .no problems...
I dont have a head cooling mod at all and my car has been fine. Im kind of with shelby guy on this one. Where is the proof the motor needs it. What data actually shows temps lowering enough to matter? I have over 700 rwhp with my setup and my car have been fine without a cooling mod. Someone please explain why its needed because I fail to see it.
i went with the LDC cooling mod. no probs.
01cobravortech
Banned
I can't say for sure that its a motor saving mod but Ford did make sure that the GT500 driver head came with an outgoing path for coolant in that head. I think it makes sense to be able to run coolant through the driver head and not have it fight its way back to the rear of that head. But of course there are plenty of examples of guys that beat the piss out of these things with insane hp levels and yet the driver head withstands the punishment.
This is not absolute proof, but take a look at the list of blown engines in this >>thread<<.
Pay close attention to how many have gone bad because of 7 & 8. To me, that indicates 2 problems. Either 7 & 8 have a tendency to go lean because of an intake flaw, or 7 & 8 get hotter because of a cooling flaw. Further, the cooling mod passes my "test of common sense". By giving the coolant a path out, it reduces the likelihood of hot spots at the back of the head.
What we absolutely need, is someone to datalog temps at each head before and after each of the cooling mods. The only problem is having the resources and money to do such a test. That should certainly convince everyone of the need for a cooling mod. Absent that data, the blown engine list would be better (and more convincing) if it also included whether or not a cooling mod was installed when the engine blew. Maybe someone with the resources will step up and do the science, but until then, I'll leave my cooling mod installed.
im in the process of installing the even flow now. didn't realize it was this tedious. im stuck on the fuel rail disconnect now. giving the search button a little work out this morning. i think anything that might help keep 7/8 a tad cooler is worth it. id rather take a chance with it than with out it. if it doesn't really work, i'm out $120 . i've wasted money on worse things than this.
See I understand that trying to get coolant out of the back of the head makes sense but without data you have no idea if it works at all. There are so many factors that if you really tried datalogging it would probably show maybe a 4 to 5 degree drop in the head. I dont think that is magically going to make the head 100 times better.
If I had to choose one to purcahse though it would be the evanflow kit as it actually routes the coolant to its own path instead of try to share the same line the passenger one does.
I wasn't trying to say that one cooling mod was better/worse than another. I was responding to your post that any cooling mod was not needed. So please explain why 7 & 8 are most likely to crap out (proof is in the list of blown motors). I'd love to get another take on why the list isn't spread out evenly among all 8 cylinders. If not heat, then what?
I'm not trying to bash, just learn.
I'm not trying to bash, just learn.
from this page:
http://www.socalterminators.com/ldc/index.html
On the '03/'04 Cobras, only the cylinders on the passenger's side head have an outlet for coolant to exit from the head. The coolant that exits goes on to the heater core. There have been numerous failures reported of the rear two pistons on the driver's side (cylinders #7 and #8) on modified Cobra's. One of the most viable theories for these failures is related to the lack of an exit for coolant on the driver's side head. This theory is that coolant more or less gets stuck in a pocket at the back of the driver's side cylinder head and this causes localized overheating at the #7 and #8 cylinders. A probable cure for this problem is to modify the cooling system so that coolant can exit the driver's side cylinder head and join the coolant flow leaving the passenger side head on it's way to the heater core and then on to the radiator.
Example of an undamaged #3 piston (on left) next to a damaged #7 piston (right)
from the same engine.
The flow of a fluid into any passage cannot be more than the outflow of the design will allow from that passage. Imagine the cardboard roll of any paper towel after the paper is used up. Hold the tube out of a car window at 60 mph, pointed in the direction of travel. Now, pinch down the exit end of the tube so that it's closed. How much air will flow through the tube? Virtually none. Open the outlet to the full diameter and air will flow through the tube like gangbusters. Same idea here, increase flow out of the head and you increase flow of cooled water into the head, and eliminate the pocket of swirling, hot coolant at the back of the head.
http://www.socalterminators.com/ldc/index.html
On the '03/'04 Cobras, only the cylinders on the passenger's side head have an outlet for coolant to exit from the head. The coolant that exits goes on to the heater core. There have been numerous failures reported of the rear two pistons on the driver's side (cylinders #7 and #8) on modified Cobra's. One of the most viable theories for these failures is related to the lack of an exit for coolant on the driver's side head. This theory is that coolant more or less gets stuck in a pocket at the back of the driver's side cylinder head and this causes localized overheating at the #7 and #8 cylinders. A probable cure for this problem is to modify the cooling system so that coolant can exit the driver's side cylinder head and join the coolant flow leaving the passenger side head on it's way to the heater core and then on to the radiator.
Example of an undamaged #3 piston (on left) next to a damaged #7 piston (right)
from the same engine.
The flow of a fluid into any passage cannot be more than the outflow of the design will allow from that passage. Imagine the cardboard roll of any paper towel after the paper is used up. Hold the tube out of a car window at 60 mph, pointed in the direction of travel. Now, pinch down the exit end of the tube so that it's closed. How much air will flow through the tube? Virtually none. Open the outlet to the full diameter and air will flow through the tube like gangbusters. Same idea here, increase flow out of the head and you increase flow of cooled water into the head, and eliminate the pocket of swirling, hot coolant at the back of the head.
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03cobramanIII
Banned
thanks for that link on the ldc kit . im going to get one when i have my trans out.
why is there no poll on this???? :shrug:
LDC announced last week that they won't be making the kit or any products now. Bummer...
I just installed the LDC kit myself fwiw.
wldtang
Banned
I voted evenflow for two reasons. Easy to install and they still make it. Both are good.
http://www.socalterminators.com/ldc/index.html
That articles shows why the LDC is such a damn good mod to have... ! :rockon:
That articles shows why the LDC is such a damn good mod to have... ! :rockon:
Shows stuff alright....but what does it prove? Nothing! I have more horsepower now than most of the motors that blew up and my car is doing fine without a cooling mod. I still stand by the fact the problems with 7 & 8 cylinders are with the tune. Hate to say it but the fact that there are people like me out here putting down well over 700 rwhp and not having a single issue makes you go :dw:
Everyone can point to that link all they want but I want you to tell me is how my motor hasnt had a single issue? According to that link I should have required a cooling mod. It is almost certain that 7 & 8 are going to overheat on my car. :shrug: Im not one to bash mods for a car on a forum but this cooling mod misconception has got to stop.
BWH2003,
There is one thing neither me, nor you, nor anyone else can deny. There was a major flaw in the design reguarding the coolant path in the drivers side head. A cooling mod might not "save you motor" but it sure will reduce those head temps a bit... ! I know your not but I'm surprised you don't have any head cooling mods. If even the FORD engineers will admit their coolant exist system was inadequate one side I would not argue that. :bored:
There is one thing neither me, nor you, nor anyone else can deny. There was a major flaw in the design reguarding the coolant path in the drivers side head. A cooling mod might not "save you motor" but it sure will reduce those head temps a bit... ! I know your not but I'm surprised you don't have any head cooling mods. If even the FORD engineers will admit their coolant exist system was inadequate one side I would not argue that. :bored:
+100000 and it can't be all in the tune causing the failure... even stock down to the paper filter, unpullied, untuned cobras developed the tick due to this problem
03cobramanIII
Banned
i just want it for safe measures, i dont want my piston to look like that one did, so ldc dont make it kits anymore? bummper
what all you got to take loose for the even flow one , and how much is it ?
what all you got to take loose for the even flow one , and how much is it ?
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