Let me know when you need local work done. I've had so much work done that i've made a few contacts and found some very good shops.
Alright, need some thinkers in here... Crank Pulley install fuggup...
- Thread starter 006
- Start date
:rockon:
If the old March pulley is now working on another Cobra then here's a thought: Could it be the bolt simply was not tight enough and the primary chain gears were rattling around? This can wear the keyway severely and is why the damper bolt must be torqued properly to prevent these gears from moving at all. As mentioned, silicone just won't do that, it cannot stand up to a crank bolt being torqued to 120ft-lbs+.
Dang I've had nothing but stellar performance from Brian. He built my rear end and I had no issues. Without him I would have never met Adam@st motorsports.
Miz has always done right by me.
-Paul
Miz has always done right by me.
-Paul
x2
Nothing but good installs on my end... and this after a rear end set up and complete motor build. And thats not even counting the work my friends have had from Miz.
Anyone who is truly interested and asks around will find FAR more good reviews than bad.
That's pretty funny. Maybe he should advertise that:
"75% of my work is done properly!"
rofles!
Seriously though, I personally referred every local customer of mine that purchased parts from us that needed a shop for install/service.
Sadly, I doubt that he's aware of how much side business he was getting from my referrals. Makes me feel bad for two reasons: He might have fuggered up their work and they'll forever blame me for sending them there, and second reason is he fuggered up the personal business I provided him.
75% is not good enough.
Accepting responsibility for both of these: Putting too much RTV in the keyway and using an impact on the crank pulley versus using a torque to spec, and for using an impact only on the pinion rather than a torque wrench to spec, would have ended this issue, but to smart mouth and remark that it's the pulley's fault and talk crap as a result is not the way to handle things:
I brought him a MARCH pulley (same company that Ford used for the 2000 Cobra R's pulleys) and TIMKEN rear end bearings (Exactly what he asked for!!). WTF?? I never once asked for a "hook-up" or discount either. At the end of his "job", he quoted me a price, I reached into my pocket and paid him exactly what he asked for. I did not try to negotiate or anything. I paid the full amount straight up.
This is the kind of attitude AND gratitude I get for sending him tons of referrals for over 4 years?
What the bloody ****??
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Well, this all seems pretty easy to settle if you two can't squash this yourself.
Ken, don't refer Miz any more business.
And in turn, Brian, don't install any Speedconcepts parts anyone brings you.
There, done. You two don't have to deal with eachother or your respective alleged "shoddy work" and "cheap parts" any longer.
Seems to me you are trying to mess with the man's livelihood, Ken. I really don't think that's wise, that's the kind of shiz tends to backfire....especially since you two are in such close proximity to eachother and your businesses are kind of intertwined. It's a hell of alot harder to find a mechanic you like and trust than it is a parts guy. And believe me, there are alot of people who like and trust Brian. I myself have been taking my car to the guy since I bought it brand new in '04. He's worked on everything from the blower to the gears and I've never once had any issues with his work. Hell, he even installed the rotors and pads I bought from you on it. The car was a veritable track whore and made hundreds of 6k rpm launches on et streets and you'd think if his work was shoddy I'd have needed a tow home far more often than the ZERO times I did.
That's my .02.
Ken, don't refer Miz any more business.
And in turn, Brian, don't install any Speedconcepts parts anyone brings you.
There, done. You two don't have to deal with eachother or your respective alleged "shoddy work" and "cheap parts" any longer.
Seems to me you are trying to mess with the man's livelihood, Ken. I really don't think that's wise, that's the kind of shiz tends to backfire....especially since you two are in such close proximity to eachother and your businesses are kind of intertwined. It's a hell of alot harder to find a mechanic you like and trust than it is a parts guy. And believe me, there are alot of people who like and trust Brian. I myself have been taking my car to the guy since I bought it brand new in '04. He's worked on everything from the blower to the gears and I've never once had any issues with his work. Hell, he even installed the rotors and pads I bought from you on it. The car was a veritable track whore and made hundreds of 6k rpm launches on et streets and you'd think if his work was shoddy I'd have needed a tow home far more often than the ZERO times I did.
That's my .02.
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- Aug 28, 2002
- Messages
- 334
prove it 006, prove something.. the only thing your have proven is what I told you, that pulley is a bad idea.. prove my install caused any issue, prove it.... What was the bolt torque too??? you claim to know torque specs so you should know... How much did that piece of silicone weigh???? What is a pinion nut torqued too??? AND NO you were not in my stall during the install, yea you were there for a minute but not while I wrench... NO ONE is, shop safety rules...
WE are not friends, You have sent Zero work my way... I ignored your customers calls and request the same way I ignored you when you tried to hire me...WHO do you think you are..?.. what, this mustang world revolves around you?? all mustang sales and work goes through you?? I never heard of you till you contacted me, crying about how you messed your car up and can I fix it for you.... why do I care, I don't, you mean nothing to me, never have and never will. You work out of an apartment building parking spot, number 22 or something, you have nothing on me, and no business to criticize anyone who wrench's for a profession, especially when you are not there...
WE are not friends, You have sent Zero work my way... I ignored your customers calls and request the same way I ignored you when you tried to hire me...WHO do you think you are..?.. what, this mustang world revolves around you?? all mustang sales and work goes through you?? I never heard of you till you contacted me, crying about how you messed your car up and can I fix it for you.... why do I care, I don't, you mean nothing to me, never have and never will. You work out of an apartment building parking spot, number 22 or something, you have nothing on me, and no business to criticize anyone who wrench's for a profession, especially when you are not there...
006 said nothing about who did the work until that person chimed in. If he wanted to remain anonymous maybe he should have stayed out of it.
As for the torque requirement, a customer doesn't have to know it, the mechanic however should.
The extra RTV didn't cause the problem. I've seen far more than that on a crank bolt.
It's not a pulley, it's DAMPER. The water pump and alternator have pulleys.
Gears shouln't whine and pinion seals should not leak...ever.
As for the torque requirement, a customer doesn't have to know it, the mechanic however should.
The extra RTV didn't cause the problem. I've seen far more than that on a crank bolt.
It's not a pulley, it's DAMPER. The water pump and alternator have pulleys.
Gears shouln't whine and pinion seals should not leak...ever.
Brian, Brian, Brian, :nonono:
I already proved everything in this thread and anyone who has read this agrees with me that you SHOULD have torqued the pulley to spec, you SHOULD have torqued the pinion nut to spec and furthermore, ANOTHER person whom you did the work for as well chimed in to state that your work was a disaster.
I think that speaks volumes in itself.
Now, there are also some local people who have complained about your work but all of a sudden they've become shy and have declined to come forward. Haha! I really wish they would so that they can attest to your inability to perform 100% quality work.
If you do not know the torque specs for the damper/crank pulley, you should be able to look it up in your shop manuals. It's NOT my responsibility to do that for you. If I was doing the work myself, I will have that information available to myself and will have it on hand. I actually had a print out to hand you, but you were Mr Ford-Tech-Gung-Ho attitude with your know it all....brandishing the impact wrench.
Not once have I insulted you. On LAMC and on here, I never once called you names, yet you stoop low enough to try and get some under-the-belt jabs that make you look pretty uncivilized and unable to communicate in a coherent and intelligent manner. (Perhaps it's a requirement of a Ford-Tech, I dunno). I have conducted myself in a most accurate and factual manner without having to insult or call you names, furthermore, your identity remained unknown all along.
Like NA SVT said, I never mentioned your name, where you work, or any details about you. All I mentioned was my "Ford Tech BUDDY" that I referred to that erred on the pulley install. You are the one that decided to reveal yourself by talking crap about my installation concern.
It's sad that you're shallow enough not to recognize when someone has tried to help you out. I have never asked for anything in return from you. When Linda (CobraGirlSVT) mentioned that our businesses are intertwined, they actually aren't. It's a ONE way referral benefit to you and nothing for me. Customers buy parts, they ask for a referral/place to install, I would give them your name/board name and send them to look/contact you. You can deny this as much as you want, but I have presented FACT after FACT after FACT in this thread. I have provided photographic proof of your work as well, yet all you have done is stoop to insults and name calling.
I have not lied about referring people over to you. Like I said and proved on LAMC, I HAVE referred people to you for work. If a local customer asked for somewhere to install the parts they purchased, I would always recommend they register onto So Cal HorsePower or onto LAmustangs.com ~ Lost Angels Car Club and look up Mizry and to shoot you a message. I've done this consistently over the last 4 years including my buddy Jerry who can attest to coming over to you to figure out why his fan would not shut off. You were not able to figure it out, but when he brought the car to me, I figured out what the problem was and fixed it myself.
Tell me that these board mentions to send customers to you are not referrals:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/sn95-cobras-24/623739-rear-end-shops.html
Two referrals in one thread
Another referral by me:
Free Rear-End Gears Event @ Chicane Sport Tuning - Page 2 - Lost Angels Mustang Club
See post #35 and #36
Sadly, I considered you a friend. This shows my character and my willingness to help someone out, and that was without your asking. I'm sure you benefitted from it, but nonetheless, it's water under the bridge now and as I can see, none of it was welcome or appreciated for that matter.
:bored:
You saw the motor swap pics and immediately assume that I work out of apt 22? Wrong my friend. When I started the business back in 2001 and for the first 3 years, I did work out of my apartment. It was never a secret. I also did my motor swap out of that apartment building. Yes it pissed off my neighbors that my motor was taking up part of the driveway.
I now have an office and a small warehouse...and I also have a mailing address.
Yeah, I did wonder why you never did return my calls when I tried to schedule a job with ya. I guess when you needed money, you called me back. It's funny how that works eh? :lol:
That'll teach me to call you right after payday...infact, if anyone needs cheap work from Brian, wait till the following week, or the week after the first of the month after rent has been paid and Brian is now short on money. He'll definitely call you back. Bring a Torque wrench with ya since the IE dealership where he does side-jobs seems to be short of them...oh, and print out the torque specs while you're at it since Brian does not seem to have a workshop manual handy either.
:lol:
After Linda (CobraGirlSVT) posted her piece yesterday, I took her advice and left this thread alone, but for some reason, you feel that you needed to toss another low-blow to satisfy yourself. WTF dude? Don't you get tired of looking bad?
Just last night, you typed this up on the local board:
Mizry said:
..and here we are again on SVTPerf the following day, you've gone back to your hole, you've taken a few breaths and you're back for more.
You should know when to quit by now, and I advise you to do just that.
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- 334
you have proven nothing.. I only came on here to to first help diag what your isssue was and then to defend myself, stay quiet yea I could have but this is the first I have heard about my work, no phone call nothing, and you have Zero experiance in wrenching. two or three swaps does not come close to what I have or any other professional tech has done.thats a weeks worth of work and I have 12+ years.. And have not received any benefits from you.. WHo do you think you are??? side jobs I dont think so, I have a weekend life...
Once again tell me what the torque on the crank bolt was???? I know where I put it at, yes I did torque it... And as far as the pinion nut, there is no torque spec when a crush sleave is used... only a rotating torque, where did you set it???? prove something.... Tell us all why your engine had a curious rattle noise in only third and fourth gear under load... an out of balance or loose crank pulley would cause a vibration no matter what rpm, gear or the load... And tell us all when this started, from my reading it seems it started after you got the trans welded up after the clutch blew out of it at the track, you claimed it ran fine up till then.. and about the rear gear, did you wait till the pinion flange fell out before you decided to finally have someone install the correct ujoints... did you ever correct the drive shaft angle or is it still hitting the floor pan...atleast I talked you out of that cobra drive shaft spacer, or did you put that back in....I can go on.....
Prove something...
Once again tell me what the torque on the crank bolt was???? I know where I put it at, yes I did torque it... And as far as the pinion nut, there is no torque spec when a crush sleave is used... only a rotating torque, where did you set it???? prove something.... Tell us all why your engine had a curious rattle noise in only third and fourth gear under load... an out of balance or loose crank pulley would cause a vibration no matter what rpm, gear or the load... And tell us all when this started, from my reading it seems it started after you got the trans welded up after the clutch blew out of it at the track, you claimed it ran fine up till then.. and about the rear gear, did you wait till the pinion flange fell out before you decided to finally have someone install the correct ujoints... did you ever correct the drive shaft angle or is it still hitting the floor pan...atleast I talked you out of that cobra drive shaft spacer, or did you put that back in....I can go on.....
Prove something...
Prove something? :lol:
Are you high?
I've been working on cars for over 10 years. Just because you get paid to do it does NOT mean that you are better at it. I wonder how many issues come back. Perhaps I should call the dealership to find out? :shrug:
The driveshaft spacer was good advice. I will give you that. I did remove it. It was not needed on my setup. I do certainly credit your advice making me realize that I did not need it. That however was not the reason for the driveshaft hitting the tunnel. It's a common problem on lowered 94-98 SN95's that are running an aluminum (larger diameter) driveshaft. Ford eliminated that problem on the 99+ models by increasing the height of the tunnel.
BAM! Taught you something new!
In regards to the U-joints, I did install new U-joints a few months before I brought the car to you, you claimed they were bad while you impact wrenched my car, and when I removed them a few months later, they were still in good shape, all the pin bearings were intact and present, the joints had not damage whatsoever. Since I had bought another set anyways, I figured why not replace them since the driveshaft was out...and I did.
..and that was when I noticed that the IMPACT GUN work you had performed on the pinion was shoddy. The nut was hand loose. No, the flange did not fall out for me to notice. Perhaps the people whom you've done this for should immdiately go check up on their flange to see how much of a fugg-up you caused them.
BTW, you wanna know the torque spec?
It is 140 lbs/ft if you really need to know that badly.
Now, in regards to the shoddy pulley job.
The noise WAS present ever since you installed the pulley. When I got on the freeway when leaving your shop I immediately heard it. There IS PROOF! You asked for proof, and there it is. Happy now? Yes, you fugged up the install and the result was immediate.
My clutch disc blowout had nothing to do with the noise. It was present since day one of your "work". Perhaps I should blame my premature clutch blowout on you? Should I have you cough up the funds? :lol:
BTW, the crank/damper pulley specs are as follows by this Ford SPECIAL SERVICE MESSAGE:
SSM 14520 4.6L 4V PULLEY INSTRUCTIONS
SOME 1996-2001 MUSTANG OWNERS, FOR ENGINE PERFORMANCE PURPOSES, ARE ADDING A SPECIAL FRONT DRIVE PULLEY KIT TO REDUCE FRONT ACCESSORY DRIVE SPEEDS. WHEN REMOVING AND REPLACING THE CRANK PULLEY, IF THE LARGE BOLT USED TO HOLD THE CRANK PULLEY IS UNDERTORQUED, THE KEYWAY WILL SHEAR AND CAUSE MAJOR ENGINE DAMAGE. THE RESULTING ENGINE DAMAGE IS NOT WARRANTABLE. IF THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT IS REMOVED IT SHOULD BE REPLACED AS IT IS A TORQUE TO YIELD BOLT. THE INSTALLATION OF THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REQUIRES THAT A SPECIFIC TORQUE OPERATION BE ADHERED TO. THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT MUST BE INSTALLED USING THESE 4 STEPS: 1)TORQUE TO 75LB/FT 2)BACK OUT ONE TURN 3)TORQUE TO 45LB/FT 4)CONTINUE TO TIGHTEN AN ADDITIONAL 90 DEGREES.
EFFECTIVE DATE: 12/13/2000
Sadly, I do not think you've ever read it or even know about it.
Perhaps this thread will help you think and use your cranium in the future to do things the proper way without screwing around with someone else's motor that is worth thousands of dollars.
What if you blew someone's motor with your shoddy work and they decided to file a lawsuit against you and the dealership where you do these "side-jobs"?
I doubt that would be very nice for you now would it?
hmm..... :idea:
You're disputing the crank noise?
You are obviously under-educated my friend.
I highly suggest reading up on harmonic vibration frequency and rpms associated with them.
Here is something for you to read if you are unaware that harmonic vibration does not occur at all rpms:
http://www.fluidampr.com/IMAGES/Fluidamper Critical Speeds.pdf
"An "order" is a single frequency, and there are many "orders"
of harmonic vibrations occurring simultaneously in
the crankshaft as the engine runs. An 8-cylinder engine, with
each cylinder firing every 720 degrees, produces a ½-order,
1st order, 1-½-order, 2nd-order and so on. Two or more of
these vibration frequencies can combine at a specific engine
"Critical Speed" rpm to produce what is known as resonance.
This resonance can destroy a crankshaft unless the harmon-
Critical Speeds & Harmonic Damping
ics are damped or the engine rpm is moved out of phase"
Now Brian, I have proved you wrong over and over again, and I do not have a fancy Ford certified badge pinned on my shirt, but if your 1-2 week or God-knows how short your training was that earned you that badge, I highly suggest trying to educate yourself beyond what you learned over there since there's lots more to learn, and it also takes common sense, decency and merit in order to live up to that badge that you wear.
Learn from this experience.
If you cannot take some constructive criticism, then you're way too absorbed in yourself.
:rockon:
Ken
You cried to the MOD's on LAMC to lock that thread, just stop already, the Lakers won, have a beer.
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If you torque the new bolt that tight You probably just ruined your crank shaft... you quoted a ten year you ssm, that was for the old silver torque to yeild bolt. you got to be kidding me...the new grade 10, black oxide coated temper steel bolt goes to 140 ft/lb's.. or if you have the time 66 ft/lb, back out then back in the 37ft/lb and then 90 degrees.. thats the spec for that grade 10 14mm bolt.... get with the times, parts change on a daily basis...
NO pinion nut torque with a crush sleeve.. only rotating torque.... Now if you set up with a solid spacer then the nut will go easy to 300 ft/lb, you car has a crush sleeve... and I set it at 25 inch pound rotating..
Please dont spread false information....people have to read this stuff and I dont want them to end up like you..
NO pinion nut torque with a crush sleeve.. only rotating torque.... Now if you set up with a solid spacer then the nut will go easy to 300 ft/lb, you car has a crush sleeve... and I set it at 25 inch pound rotating..
Please dont spread false information....people have to read this stuff and I dont want them to end up like you..
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they asked me to kill it, I said to leave it up. I had nothing to do with it, Just people coming out to help me, I have nothing to hide....
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ok what I was trying to type,
Please tell us all... How did a piece of silicone throw out the engine balance in third and forth gear only, and then only under load.?????...your diag not mine...
Please tell us all... How did a piece of silicone throw out the engine balance in third and forth gear only, and then only under load.?????...your diag not mine...
Wow, you've had a REVELATION and decided to look up the Torque specs finally??
Haha :lol:
I knew you would learn something from this eventually!
Sad thing though is knowing that I DID install my pulley to SPEC, while [you] a so-called "certified Ford-Tech" used an impact gun.
:bash:
You want to argue some more? I have TONS more dude, let's roll!!
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man you type around alot... I hope this time you install the correct ujoints. never said they were bad, but your ujoints should NOT have 1/8 inch of slop...I told you about the 99 t45 trans mount height, You had no idea... still does not make it right... fix it...I told you how...
Your clutch failure was also foretold BY me... When you did what you did it should have blown out then... What was it, a full throttle, redline upshift from third back to second.??? somthing like that, but instead of blowing the clutch then, the car just wheel hopped till you pulled it out of gear... bent both the axles, probably hurt the trans and caused some noise you state was in the rear axle...
Your clutch failure was also foretold BY me... When you did what you did it should have blown out then... What was it, a full throttle, redline upshift from third back to second.??? somthing like that, but instead of blowing the clutch then, the car just wheel hopped till you pulled it out of gear... bent both the axles, probably hurt the trans and caused some noise you state was in the rear axle...
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Ok ken you win, once again... what do you want to hear from me????
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