Oil You use & why/Pros & Cons

Oil you use and why?


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Where do you get German Castrol 0W-30?

My local AutoZone just started carrying it about a month ago again, but for the past year I was ordering from this place in Idaho: www.proformanceusa.com. The product arrived within a week through Fed Ex. About $1.50 more than my local AutoZone but I also run that oil to 5500 - 6000mile intervals.

*P.S. You have no idea how I accidentally stumbled across that site that sells the GC. It simply does not come up on any type of Google Search. I actually was lucky enough to have found one of my old posts from 2 years ago where I identified the site. No GC offering sites come up on Google, strangely enough.*
 

svtsilversnake

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You are asking people for pictures of destroyed motors and opinions on what oil they think is best. That has been done in literally hundred of threads. There is like one every week.


The best oil is the one that you change every 3000 miles.

I agree with what your say in here
The best oil is the one that you change every 3000 miles
but there are not hundreds I made a poll to see what the most of use svt members use. The mention of pics and motors after tear down was for disscusion puposes, and I never said destroyed motors.. Thanks for your input but I would like to stay away from a pissing contest as I havent peed in about 8hrs and you would get really wet.:lol1:
 

svtsilversnake

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Where do you get German Castrol 0W-30?
Yes do tell. Isnt 0w like water though. HOw could you have less wear than with mobil 1 with a higher weight. Just curious Im not calling b.s. Ive alwasy been told to run nothing less than 10-30w. Ohh and I thought weight was the second #. I guess im stupid:??:

Edit: I do use 5-20 in mine but thats only because I read that the hydrolic lash adjusters in the heads will lift off the valv seat or somthing like that due to pumping loss"shm 4.6 modular power book"
 
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LargeOrangeFont

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Yes do tell. Isnt 0w like water though. HOw could you have less wear than with mobil 1 with a higher weight. Just curious Im not calling b.s. Ive alwasy been told to run nothing less than 10-30w. Ohh and I thought weight was the second #. I guess im stupid:??:

Edit: I do use 5-20 in mine but thats only because I read that the hydrolic lash adjusters in the heads will lift off the valv seat or somthing like that due to pumping loss"shm 4.6 modular power book"

Its great that you made a poll about oil when you know nearly nothing about modern motor oil.

Please read this before you make a mess in your depends.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm

Different oils have different detergent and lubrication properties. Weight is not much of a factor in these lightweight oils as they all have similar temperature ranges. Some oils hold their lubrication properties longer than others. Once an oil starts to break down, it does so very quickly. This is why change intervals are important. Ideally, send your oil out for analysis to see exacly how many miles you can go before it breaks down.
 
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SnakeBit

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Its great that you made a poll about oil when you know nearly nothing about modern motor oil.

Please read this before you make a mess in your depends.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm

Different oils have different detergent and lubrication properties. Weight is not much of a factor in these lightweight oils as they all have similar temperature ranges. Some oils hold their lubrication properties longer than others. Once an oil starts to break down, it does so very quickly. This is why change intervals are important. Ideally, send your oil out for analysis to see exacly how many miles you can go before it breaks down.
A dino oil breaks down quickly, but a full synthetic does NOT. It gets contaminated.

I use Amsoil Series 2000 0W30. I do a full oil change at 12,000 miles and send in a sample for analysis. Every 3,000 miles I change my oil filter (Motorcraft) and top off the oil level (usually end up adding a total of 1 qt.).

If you feel you have to change your oil every 3,000 miles, then any good dino or semi-synthetic blend will work nicely. Change your oil if your engine overheats. Change your oil if your FRPS goes south (you'll smell gas on the dipstick). Oil analysis is vital. It will alert you if something is wearing (such as rings) due to the presence of certain metals.

Mobil 1 is good, fairly cheap (well, cheaper than Amsoil) and readily available. I ran it in my 98 doing the same 3,000/12,000 interval as with the Amsoil. So far, my oil analysis has always come back saying I could run it longer. Maybe next time I will. If my engine goes south, it will be from a missed shift, and not from the oil.
:beer:
 

About2bite

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There are a couple types of GC, read the label and make sure you get the Europen GC.
 

Sniperdog

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oil? :shrug:

shouldn't it have had oil put in at the factory? :eek: please say yes :scared:
 

A Gruesome Time

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I use Mobil 1 5w30, because it is damn good oil, and I get a discount on it through my father's Porsche dealer... Speaking of, I really need an oil change.
 

Deftones

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Royal Purple 5W20 with K&N Oil Filters every 2,000 miles on my 2003 Cobra. Currently have 16,075 miles and no problems. I love RP but I use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic in my 2003 Honda Civic Daily Driver and change it every 5,000 miles and it is at 85,300 miles right now. I used Valvoline Full Synthetic in my 2000 Mustang GT that I since parted ways with at 134,000 miles and she was running like new and very strong. I would use anyone of these Synthetics in a ride because I have had great results with them.
 

svtsilversnake

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Its great that you made a poll about oil when you know nearly nothing about modern motor oil.

Please read this before you make a mess in your depends.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question164.htm

Different oils have different detergent and lubrication properties. Weight is not much of a factor in these lightweight oils as they all have similar temperature ranges. Some oils hold their lubrication properties longer than others. Once an oil starts to break down, it does so very quickly. This is why change intervals are important. Ideally, send your oil out for analysis to see exacly how many miles you can go before it breaks down.

Gee thanks now will you go away. Im tired of talking to you. If your sick of oil threads why do you click on them? nevermind dont actually answer that, I really dont want to discuss this with you. If you have a huge problem with it click on smackdown caffe, click new thread and Im sure you can figure the rest out. Take you argument in there because I dont give a shit what you think.
 
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Gee thanks now will you go away. Im tired of talking to you. If your sick of oil threads why do you click on them? nevermind dont actually answer that, I really dont want to discuss this with you. If you have a huge problem with it click on smackdown caffe, click new thread and Im sure you can figure the rest out. Take you argument in there because I dont give a shit what you think.

LargeOrangeFont is trying to teach you something rather than feed you opinions that are not grounded in substantiated facts, much like the majority of the posts on this thread. I also agree with his remarks about the tiresome frequency of oil threads on here because you repeatedly get guys parroting nonsense about why an oil is better. :read:
 

LargeOrangeFont

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LargeOrangeFont is trying to teach you something rather than feed you opinions that are not grounded in substantiated facts, much like the majority of the posts on this thread. I also agree with his remarks about the tiresome frequency of oil threads on here because you repeatedly get guys parroting nonsense about why an oil is better. :read:

Thanks, and thank you again for adding some experiences grounded in reality. :banana:
 

plan b

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At the rate these oil threads pop up that will be next month. I should buy some Castrol stock.

I use 3 in 1 oil. The only thing that sucks is I have to buy a shitload of the little cans to bring it up to the full mark:lol1:
 
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