2013 GT now takes 5w50??

UnleashedBeast

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There is more to true synthetic lubricants that superior protection alone.

Less friction = more power, more efficiency, and improved mpg.

Lower NOACK Volatility = less evaporation (burn off), less oil ending up pooled into your intake manifold, collecting in your catch can, or being burnt onto the valves and combustion chamber as deposits.

Higher shearing strength = ultimate punishment abuse protection on the lower bearings
 

Bud

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What would you recommend for a PD blower car running e85 in the spring/summer/fall when on e85 (above 40 degrees) and gets to the dragstrip occasionally. Then what oil for winter when on gas. In Colorado so cold winters.
 

UnleashedBeast

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What would you recommend for a PD blower car running e85 in the spring/summer/fall when on e85 (above 40 degrees) and gets to the dragstrip occasionally. Then what oil for winter when on gas. In Colorado so cold winters.

If you are using E85 during the summer, and in Colorado, you could run Amsoil AZO 0W-30 year round.

or switch to Amsoil ATM 10W-30 during the summer.

E85 burns cooler than gasoline, and I don't think you have dead heat summers there.
 

twistedneck

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UnleashedBeast, is there a protection improvement going with 10W-30 vs 0W-30? i live in Michigan but only drive when its 40F or above.

Also, is there a horsepower increase by going with one oil vs. the next? i know the Coyote has those piston sprayers and they do cost HP.
 

UnleashedBeast

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UnleashedBeast, is there a protection improvement going with 10W-30 vs 0W-30? i live in Michigan but only drive when its 40F or above.

Also, is there a horsepower increase by going with one oil vs. the next? i know the Coyote has those piston sprayers and they do cost HP.

0W-30 and 10W-30 are exactly the same viscosity at operating temperature. The only difference is 0W thickens less as it cools (flows easier at low temperatures). This doesn't really become an issue until the temperature drops below the freezing point of water. Even though engine oil is still a fluid at 32*F, that's my personal breaking point of what oil to choose.

Another issue is how hot it gets during the summer. For the ultimate in shear protection during very hot weather, a lubricant with a more narrow viscosity spread is the better choice for a high horsepower engine. It's far more shear stable, especially if you are stuck using a dino or hydrocracked petroleum formulation.

Don't sell short Amsoil 0W-30 though, I have a sample from a Terminator with ~5,000 miles, and it didn't shear at all. Amsoil calls it the best passenger car lubricant they formulate.

The only gain in power and efficiency is going to be using a true synthetic lubricant versus a dino or hydrocracked formulation. Since 0W-30 and 10W-30 Amsoil are the same viscosity at operating temperatures and both are the same true synthetic base stock, they will yield the same results.

The odd thing is, I actually GAINED 1 mpg on the highway consistently by changing from Mobil 1 5W-20 to Amsoil AZO 0W-30 (2008 Mustang GT 3V). Amsoil's formulation is a light 30 grade, not far from a heavy 20 grade status, and a superior base stock formulation. Of course it's going to yield better efficiency compared to Mobil 1 (hydrocracked/PAO blend - not 100% true)

Two good posts on the matter

Why a 10W-30?

Efficiency increase and CAFE laws
 
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M3_Dust

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is this a good place to ask if anyone has a link to a good DIY for an oil change on my new 5.0 engine? I would think there would be a sticky or DIY section, sorry if I missed them.
 

trolls56

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Amsoil is the way to go. Ran 0-30 in my Raptor since first oil change with their filter. I was a very cold winter up in South Dakota when i first got it.
 

typhoon5000

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I just found out from a very reliable source that the engine calibration for each Coyote 5.0L is specifically tuned for the oil viscosity recommended on its oil cap. This is due to the Ti-VCT phasers. They are VERY sensitive to oil viscosity and will only provide proper timing with the oil it came with from the factory unless you have a tune that compensates for this (not even sure if any aftermarket tuner knows how to play with the phaser cals seeing as they are so complex). So the Boss and '13 Track Pak cars have a calibration for 5W-50 and any '11/12 GT for 5W-20.

I understand the concern with that light of an oil for track use, but this is what I heard. I'll be sticking with 5W-20 because I want my Ti-VCT to function properly, but also because any warranty claims on the motor that can be traced to running a different viscosity than recommended could possibly be denied.
 
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ViciousJay

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I just found out from a very reliable source that the engine calibration for each Coyote 5.0L is specifically tuned for the oil viscosity recommended on its oil cap. This is due to the Ti-VCT phasers. They are VERY sensitive to oil viscosity and will only provide proper timing with the oil it came with from the factory unless you have a tune that compensates for this (not even sure if any aftermarket tuner knows how to play with the phaser cals seeing as they are so complex). So the Boss and '13 Track Pak cars have a calibration for 5W-50 and any '11/12 GT for 5W-20.

I understand the concern with that light of an oil for track use, but this is what I heard directly from an insider. I'll be sticking with 5W-20 because I want my Ti-VCT to function properly, but also because any warranty claims on the motor that can be traced to running a different viscosity than recommended could possibly be denied.

is this word by mouth or is there some literature on this subject?
 

UnleashedBeast

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I just found out from a very reliable source that the engine calibration for each Coyote 5.0L is specifically tuned for the oil viscosity recommended on its oil cap.

We've heard the same "rumors" and "gossip" from the 4.6L 3V engine, and previous 5.0L Coyote/Roadrunner variations. None of this chatter has held true to date.

They would say, don't use thicker than a 20 grade or your cam timing will not function correctly. Now it's, "Don't use less than a 50 grade, or it will happen."

When will the madness end?

I'll be sticking with 5W-20 because I want my Ti-VCT to function properly, but also because any warranty claims on the motor that can be traced to running a different viscosity than recommended could possibly be denied.

Ford has to prove beyond a doubt the lubricant caused such failure.
 
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Stinger1982

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The 2013 GT Track Pack takes 5w-50



This came up another board as well.

It was confirmed that the TiVCT calibration is viscosity specific.

thats all there is to it you cant just throw 5w-50 in any 5.0 GT
 

SicShelby09

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The 2013 GT Track Pack takes 5w-50



This came up another board as well.

It was confirmed that the TiVCT calibration is viscosity specific.

thats all there is to it you cant just throw 5w-50 in any 5.0 GT

By who? A ford coyote engineer? That would be the only person that can confirm this.
 

Stinger1982

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Correct. They only people who know what they are talking about are the Ford engineers
 

UnleashedBeast

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Correct. They only people who know what they are talking about are the Ford engineers

Ford, you mean the same engineers who decided the MT-82 (a German design manufactured and assembled by the Chinese) was the best idea? An inherently noisy design that was quieted by using a lubricant with equivalent viscosity to 75W-90 gear oil. Only to discover, it was causing grinding and transmission failures?

The same engineers who got the engine to rear differential alignment wrong in the S197, causing drive line resonances, with a two piece steel driveshaft being the only affordable solution to fix it? Why do you think there is a Carbon Fiber shaft with dual CV joints on the 2013 GT500?

Same engineers who didn't partially fix the common wheel hop problem on the S197 until the 2011 models came out? All that was required was an upper control arm mount with a lower mounting hole on the chassis side to correct improper instant center. No such change occurred until 2011.

Same engineers who took 3 model years to fix the "loose lumbar" clunk noises in the front suspension? Simple change of upper strut mount.

Are we talking about the same engineers?

To be fair, many of the decisions made that caused the issues above are due to the bean counters. Engineers fight them all the time, but in the end, they have the edge to win. It's no different when it comes to engine lubrication recommendations.
 
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SicShelby09

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Ford, you mean the same engineers who decided the MT-82 (a German design manufactured and assembled by the Chinese) was the best idea? An inherently noisy design that was quieted by using a lubricant with equivalent viscosity to 75W-90 gear oil. Only to discover, it was causing grinding and transmission failures?

The same engineers who got the engine to rear differential alignment wrong in the S197, causing drive line resonances, with a two piece steel driveshaft being the only affordable solution to fix it? Why do you think there is a Carbon Fiber shaft with dual CV joints on the 2013 GT500?

Same engineers who didn't partially fix the common wheel hop problem on the S197 until the 2011 models came out? All that was required was an upper control arm mount with a lower mounting hole on the chassis side to correct improper instant center. No such change occurred until 2011.

Are we talking about the same engineers?

No we are not. There are coyote engineers. Scroll to the bottom.

2011 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Coyote Engine - 5.0 Mustang & Fast Fords
 

M3_Dust

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what is the appropriate viscosity full-synthetic to replace the factory 5W-50 in the '13 track pack with if any of this TiVCT calibration is true or relevant? I'm also in Phoenix where it gets hot, we are already hitting 105, so should I use the 10W-40 Amsoil or another product?
 

Stinger1982

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Ford, you mean the same engineers who decided the MT-82 (a German design manufactured and assembled by the Chinese) was the best idea? An inherently noisy design that was quieted by using a lubricant with equivalent viscosity to 75W-90 gear oil. Only to discover, it was causing grinding and transmission failures?

The same engineers who got the engine to rear differential alignment wrong in the S197, causing drive line resonances, with a two piece steel driveshaft being the only affordable solution to fix it? Why do you think there is a Carbon Fiber shaft with dual CV joints on the 2013 GT500?

Same engineers who didn't partially fix the common wheel hop problem on the S197 until the 2011 models came out? All that was required was an upper control arm mount with a lower mounting hole on the chassis side to correct improper instant center. No such change occurred until 2011.

Same engineers who took 3 model years to fix the "loose lumbar" clunk noises in the front suspension? Simple change of upper strut mount.

Are we talking about the same engineers?

To be fair, many of the decisions made that caused the issues above are due to the bean counters. Engineers fight them all the time, but in the end, they have the edge to win. It's no different when it comes to engine lubrication recommendations.


What OEM do you work for again?

If you are so far above them why dont you work for Ford again?

FYI some of your comments are so in left field you are picking daisies! I am rolling laughing about why you think the CF driveshaft was implimented. HILARIOUS
 
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