Just got a Terminator, and 68 Miles later it's broke.

Soap

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Considering a larger bolt won't fit through the bushing... I think it has to do with them either being loose or the fact that the OEM style bushings were utterly destroyed. I'll get photos latter.

You can get the bushings for large or small hardware. The hole size, bushing and bolt need to all match.

--Joe
 

Corbic

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OMFG!

So I go to start the Cobra tonight and it fires right up. The hell?!

I pull the vacuum line off the FRPS to see if it spits gas and nope. It's all god damn fine.

-__-

New sensor arrives tomorrow. Looks like a 5 minute swap so I'm still changing it out.
 

Corbic

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Changed it out Friday. Life was great. Drove down to Indy and back Saturday.

Today, go to get lunch. Eat my sandwich, get in the car.... click click - dead.

So dead no radio, no windows and dim interior lights.

Friend comes to jump me, full interior power comes back, lots of loud clicks. Wait 15 minutes, no improvement. Good connection, clean terminals.

Drop in a new battery, fires right up.

I'm now worried the alternator is bad. The old battery was a Duralast Gold from 2011.

I've never had a battery take a totally shit like that.

No battery light on the panel.




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c6zhombre

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New battery, good. But always....always find a way no matter how to log voltage when you drive your car. I never leave home without my logger and voltage is one of the main things I hawk in on. That battery light on the dash is damn near useless with the exception of you should absolutely see it "key on, ignition off" before you first fire up. If you don't, you probably have an issue with the "exciter" wire in the harness of the alternator or you just simply don't have it plugged in fully.

New battery, log volt, keep battery on desulfating maintenance charger. Great habits to be in. Battery volt when you first turn it over should be right at 14.0
 

hotcobra03

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Changed it out Friday. Life was great. Drove down to Indy and back Saturday.

Today, go to get lunch. Eat my sandwich, get in the car.... click click - dead.

So dead no radio, no windows and dim interior lights.

Friend comes to jump me, full interior power comes back, lots of loud clicks. Wait 15 minutes, no improvement. Good connection, clean terminals.

Drop in a new battery, fires right up.

I'm now worried the alternator is bad. The old battery was a Duralast Gold from 2011.

I've never had a battery take a totally shit like that.

No battery light on the panel.




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Next time..remember these can be push started..

Does car have original terminals or aftermarket?

We all have times with battery/alt issues..

Battery light is strange..depending on issue..

Battery just going is odd..maybe something was left on..

Interior light is know to stick on as in seat belt hanging out door problem these have..

I just found a bad ground on mine..

Wire going from battery terminal to radiator support..

I had issues yrs ago when the crimped ring cracked..lost power

It just happened again..this time wire broke Inside.. now I noticed with new ground I have 14.1 volts in car always and headlights don't dim down when coasting like before..
 

hotcobra03

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Well the hand held won't apparently.

I also found a fault code, but I don't have an engine light.

P0113
Temperature Circuit 1
Circuit High
Data log..real time data

I have diablo..it's in there on mine..there are different sections to log..scroll thru option
 

speedoflife

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"Normal" battery life is 4-5 years. I've had multiple batteries (especially cheaper ones) die all of the sudden like that. I wouldn't consider it strange were I you, knowing the battery is from 2011.
 

Corbic

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"Normal" battery life is 4-5 years. I've had multiple batteries (especially cheaper ones) die all of the sudden like that. I wouldn't consider it strange were I you, knowing the battery is from 2011.

It's just unsettling. I've had old battery's die, but you can normally jump them.

I did order a cigarette light voltage gauge off amazon. It was well reviewed. I'll toss that in for a piece of mind.
 

Corbic

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Po113..Air intake temp sensor..

Connector could be loose..or unplugged with key on during working..

Connection and wires looked good. I'll just buy another. It's like $20.

Also, wtf is up with this shit.

889C82FE-7967-49C0-B241-D0279D53646D_zpsfxqo5x1u.jpg


7F392281-F74C-4224-AED8-F10B9AE45A6E_zpsngalhtcb.jpg


Two vacuum lines by the FRPR are capped off with bolts!!
 

jrichber

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I have had a battery just go like that as well. Last year I did the timing chains on my truck(took about 2-3 weeks) got all back together and trucking running. Next day I went to a store came back out and just dead. Thought for sure I messed something up putting truck back together. And it was just a dead battery.
 

hotcobra03

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Connection and wires looked good. I'll just buy another. It's like $20.

Also, wtf is up with this shit.

889C82FE-7967-49C0-B241-D0279D53646D_zpsfxqo5x1u.jpg


7F392281-F74C-4224-AED8-F10B9AE45A6E_zpsngalhtcb.jpg


Two vacuum lines by the FRPR are capped off with bolts!!
I would reset pcm before replacing that sensor..

That sensor has test that can be done before..

In manual it has you start at certain tests depending on
Key on engine off scan
Key on engine running scan
Continuous memory.

I will post a link for vaccum hose routing..
 

Corbic

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Thanks man!

Will I auto fail emissions if I delete the EGR?

Will I need to retune?


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c6zhombre

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Thanks man!

Will I auto fail emissions if I delete the EGR?

Will I need to retune?


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Not in the great nation of Texas you won't...but you would need to check with your state's emissions requirements

It looks SO much cleaner underhood with the egr deleted
 

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