NGK-R BR7EF Plugs

Anabolic

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Anyone else have these???

it seems like the most miniscule gap adjustment throws something off I had them gapped alittle to close at .32 & I would get plug blow out at higher RPMS. went to .37 sumble light gas.. trying 34 35 now??
anyone try these?
 

crazycarlo

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Hmm I have Br7EF's in my car now I guess once I get my problem of it running crappy fixed and the motor broken in I will switch the plugs back over. Thanks for the info.
 

Anabolic

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these were my replacement to autolites... I can't believe how touchy they are, anyone know if they're OE temp rating? or 1 cooler like TR6?
 

earico

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these were my replacement to autolites... I can't believe how touchy they are, anyone know if they're OE temp rating? or 1 cooler like TR6?

They are one step colder than a TR6.
 

98 Saleen Cobra

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Yes EF's will make less power but they're a colder plug.. OP you were having spark blow out because you were gapping them to a wider gap, you'd need to close it. I run them as they come out of the box.. I double check the gap and drop them in.
 

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thanks guys, I dont know about everyone else but im the type that will change/tweek something in the parking lot if I have to, that being said I just got back from a ride. Ripped the coils out (they seemed alot hotter than the plugs) so i'm happy about that, was just not happy that the smallest gap difference made SUCH a difference, Like i was saying in OP not sure if it's the plugs. BUT had gapped to .32 & Was missing in higher RPMS, now gapped to .36 & am missing at low RPMS. color is good though & no complaints about them besides that.
 

98 Saleen Cobra

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If you're missing in higher RPMS close the gap down.. Out of the box they're like .028.. i run them there with 16psi and 640rwhp..
 

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So i closed the gap alittle (.033), started the car up. It started to tick alittle. Then started to miss and the tick went away.. do the coils tick when they crap out? theyre oe..
so something probably started to die. then died.
 
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c6zhombre

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I was running br7ef at .026, 22psi e85. I switched over to tr6 at .026 after talking with 04sleeper....couldn't be happier. Not that it ran poorly on the br7s, but it feels slightly more powerful from the seat after the swap. One other thing of note, I datalogged back to back after the swap and it leaned out nearly .3 on the wideband with the tr6, no tuning change whatsoever.
 

sallen85

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My car was seeing spark blowout with tr6's Kurgan switched to the BR7's with a .02 gap and away we went.
 

Anabolic

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the COPS have seen better days, they have some marks on the top of them from COP covers/gaskets i would assume. Did i over tighten the cop cover & kill some coils? perhaps a COP was damaged because it's it's been tightened to many times? there's marks on the top of it from the gasket.

edit: it sounded like the tick when plugs arc out because of bad wires (if anyone's familiar with that) then the ticking went away & it started to miss.
 
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MICLO50

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I run the br7's gapped at .022-.023 I believe. Hoping to get her out soon and finally be able to test everything out.
 

TBCobra

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Hmm, I just switched to br7's from tr6's because of nitrous issues. Car seems to run fine with the colder plugs.
 
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Broke7 runs an obscene amount of power though.

Even if its 20hp less, you always want to run as cold a plug as possible, that doesn't foul, on a boosted application.

While its not bulletproof, you should always look for any means, to add a safety net to avoid detonation.

I run 'baby boost' on my ported eaton (13.6psi) and even for such a tame setup I run the TR7ixs. There is so much that can go wrong on these boosted applications that sometimes a colder plug is what can save your motor, if you aren't datalogging while you're riding. I know I sure can't be bothered with datalogging every time I drive mine...
 

Nitrous Outlet

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We run and recommend BR7EF for a lot of cars. They cross for the LSX market.

The difference between TR6 and BR7 is that the TR6 is a projected tip spark plug and the BR7 is a non-projected tip spark plug. The BR7 is going to be able to disipate heat our of the strap and into the threads a lot better than the TR6. This will keep you from nipping the tip off a plug in higher than normal power levels. The BR7 is a great power adder plug!

for reference. You will see how the plug can get the heat out of the strap and into the head and threads on the BR series a lot better than the TR series.

IMG_0912.JPG


I personally ran them on my 4V and had no problem at all. I like the added safety of the BR7.
 

Anabolic

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any idea if my ticking after down gap is caused from to tight on coil covers or bad COP? it was ticking them stopped Then started missing, pulled plugs again theyre not fouled so the valves arnt frozen, no oil so rings arnt bad.
is it a bad COP?

I think i over tightend the covers, Seem to be fine now..
anyways thanks for the pic referance. I see the difference wow. I did notice the plugs being cooler than the COP believe it or not. because i was a dummy to touch it right after a ride. lol last second "adjustments"
 
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c6zhombre

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We run and recommend BR7EF for a lot of cars. They cross for the LSX market.

The difference between TR6 and BR7 is that the TR6 is a projected tip spark plug and the BR7 is a non-projected tip spark plug. The BR7 is going to be able to disipate heat our of the strap and into the threads a lot better than the TR6. This will keep you from nipping the tip off a plug in higher than normal power levels. The BR7 is a great power adder plug!

for reference. You will see how the plug can get the heat out of the strap and into the head and threads on the BR series a lot better than the TR series.

IMG_0912.JPG



I personally ran them on my 4V and had no problem at all. I like the added safety of the BR7.




That's pretty funny because that's my photo of my 2 plugs on my kitchen counter
 

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