FRPP/Whipple kit content and install on '09 GT500

[Tob]

How does the whipple s/c whine compare with the eaton?

Subjective, I know, but I'd have to say it emits almost the same whine. At idle, with the hood open, you can barely tell that the engine is ingesting more air than before.

Part throttle - no difference.

Full throttle, I'd have to say there is a hint that something has changed, but nowhere near what really small pulley's sound like. The exhaust takes over at that point. If I get some time to play around I'll mount my GoPro in a couple of different spots to try to give you some more accurate insight.

...using a FORE fuel hat would alleviate all fuel pump install issues.

From a bolt on/in perspective, I'm not so sure about that. While I don't discount their machine work and engineering in any way, their hat doesn't have all the provisions the stocker does. They've eliminated the sprung portion that the stock pump assembly which utilizes four rubber feet that allow "vertical tension" with the pump making contact with the tank bottom. It looks like Fore hangs their pumps above the tank bottom.

Furthermore, it looks as though it captures and locates the pumps via a pair of o-rings in a machined recess, but only keeps the pump from moving downward from hose clamp tension at the top of the pump. The pumps can only go down so far and at that point the pickup screens are being sandwiched against the tank bottom. If anyone from Fore, Lethal, etc, could comment on this it would definitely shed some light. At $420 just for the hat, it definitely isn't cheap.

http://www.lethalperformance.com/07...n-05-09-gt-gt500-triple-pump-fuel-hat-p-17458

You also need an adapter in order to mate with the stock line (another $45).

http://www.lethalperformance.com/07...-works-s197-hat-to-stock-line-adapter-p-20382

Then you have to add two Walbro GSS342 pumps, at a little over $100 each.

http://www.lethalperformance.com/07...albro-99-04-lightning-255lph-fuel-pump-p-4228

So at this level of modification, I think I'd rather just trim the corner of a connector and go with the FRPP pump. On that note, I still don't see the M-9H307-MSVTA FRPP kit pump listed on FRPP's site yet. So I don't know how this guy is getting them separate from the blower kits, but apparently they are now available.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item563b8644fa

I think $240 is a fair price for the pump assembly, modifications notwithstanding. FRPP dealers can probably beat that number.


Tob

On edit...steps 1-19 of the Mustang GT dual fuel pump kit install pdf gives you a pretty good idea of what you run into. Take the disclaimers and warnings very seriously...
http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/instructionsheets/FordInstShtM-9407-GT05.pdf

 

[GOTSVT?]

Great read and write up! It sounds like the car is a monster!

 

[PowerWheels]

Save for later use.

 

[nolyaw]

I have the Fore hat in my '09 Bullitt and my '03 Cobra, and they truly are a work of art. It eliminates they easily kinkable and splitable factory hoses, and all related pprv valves and whatnot. They are mostly ideal for bigger fuel line setups, which I have, but work awesome with the stock size line setup as well.

I said it would be more money, but they are most definitly worth it. Makes the stock setup look like a Hyundai part. :-D

 

[Tob]

I took a couple of quick vids from different angles.

Blower whine is similar to stock until you hit the upper ranges.

Watch in 720 if poor pixelation drives you nuts...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlDe3r8m7Sc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3s3c-mo5sQ

 

[PowerWheels]

Thing sounds awesome!

 

[Seahorse]

Excellent write-up! Have you noticed any more front end movement/flex with the strut bar removed?

 

[IcebourgGT500]

Thank You!!!!! Thank You!!!!!! Thank You!!!!! Great thread and tons of info!!!!! Tob thanks for your time as well!!!!!!

 

[cbr repsol]

I put one of these blowers on for someone a while back. I did the same thing to that darn bracket that holds the wiring harness. Its just a little bit too long so i got the cut off wheel and shorted it up just like you did. I found a ratcheting wrench at autozone that worked great on the hard to get bolt on the drivers side. Other than that putting the 2.9 on a shelby is a piece of cake.

 

[03 DSG Snake]

Tob,

Great info.

You should call the FRPP Tech Line and share your findings on the pump assembly.



And I wonder why they went with the pumps over new injectors in their kit.

 

[StoplightWarrior]

great write up. I just invested 45min in it...Glad your car came out so well, and you're happy with it.

Gonna get any dyno #s for us?

 

[Tob]

Have you noticed any more front end movement/flex with the strut bar removed?

When I'm finally able to hit 1.5 G's on the skid pad I may be able to measure some deflection at the strut towers. Until then, I really don't think it matters. I'll probably end up cutting/welding the bar so that it'll fit anyway.:shrug:

I did the same thing to that darn bracket that holds the wiring harness. Its just a little bit too long so i got the cut off wheel and shorted it up just like you did.

Apparently great minds not only think alike, they also cut brackets alike!;-)

Tob,
You should call the FRPP Tech Line and share your findings on the pump assembly. And I wonder why they went with the pumps over new injectors in their kit.

My inclination is that FRPP used the stock injectors in order to be granted an Exemption number from the EPA. I have a feeling they tested with larger injectors and an in-house tune, but decided in the end that they could have better control with a little more fuel pressure and the stock injectors. I have a feeling Justin could better answer why FRPP went the "pump only" route (unless somebody from FRPP "broke protocol" and jumped in with some comments).

Glad your car came out so well, and you're happy with it.

Gonna get any dyno #s for us?

I remember getting the first SVO catalog back in about 1982. They have come a long way since then. But one thing has remained constant - the quality of the parts they offer is always top notch. As I mentioned earlier in this thread, I waited for this blower/tune from FRPP. I knew Whipple had the hardware down. I just wanted the safest tune possible and I feel confident with anything Procal. I don't need to eek out every last ounce of power while foregoing factory protective strategies, as I don't have a butler named Jeeves, nor do I carry any grey poupon in the glove box.

Happy (in this case) means never having to question or worry about the tune. For me that made the kit well worth the time, effort, and money.

If I get the opportunity, I'll try to get a couple of runs with this new combination.

Tob

 

[Willie2]

Tob,

You don't have a Ford Racing Strut Tower Brace do you?

I can tell you it will clear the 2.9. its the CAI you have to worry about.

 

[03 DSG Snake]

I can tell you it will clear the 2.9. its the CAI you have to worry about.

Are you running one? I was looking at a 2.9L with the FRPP intake under the brace.

 

[Tob]

He's right. Looked to me like it would clear the Whipple 2.9, just not with Whipple's CAI in place...

 

[CobraRclone]

I was thinking would it be easier to remove the lower intake manifold from the engine and attach the s/c and fuel rails on a bench. Then install as an assembly. Then the dowels could be used and the RTV would be much easier and no special wrench would be required. Just a thought.

 

[Whipple Charged]

TOB,

I believe the reason for the omission of the dowel pins is to enable the installer the choice of being able to start threading the back bolts in place first, thus sliding the slotted blower holes under the bolt heads, in order to gain access with a wrench to begin tightening them later. Its because of the huge plenum that they do this, where on a stock blower you can access them easily. If the blower used the dowel pins, you'd then be forced to try and get the bolts started on your own, under the plenum, which is pretty hard.

A group of my friends installed my 2.9 for me. I got to the shop after they had already gotten the blower on the lower intake manifold, and I was curious about the dowel pins too. That's when the fun started trying to get the back bolt ( driver's side) tightened down.

It would make sense to introduce a ratcheting wrench that woult fit under the plenum so Whipple installers could have an easier time tightening that bolt!

By the way, the 3.25" pulley is the standard pulley. The 3.0" is optional ( no extra charge). 3.0" is said to make around 17-18 psi. That is what I chose on mine.

I noticed the kit does not include an injector upgrade, rather a fuel pump upgrade instead? That is a little curious to me, since I thought the stock injector was nearing full duty cycle around 590-600 rwhp. Maybe I was mistaken?
Good luck, and looking forward to getting your first impressions of the drive.

This is correct on the dowel pins.

As for fuel injectors, you can up to 800rwhp with stock injectors. The FRPP system comes with modified fuel pumps to help support the system.

 

[StoplightWarrior]

oh, not sure if you mentioned this. I don't remember seeing it...whats the warranty on this unit? On the car itself??

 

[me32]

This is correct on the dowel pins.

As for fuel injectors, you can up to 800rwhp with stock injectors. The FRPP system comes with modified fuel pumps to help support the system.

do you have the specs on the fuels pumps that come with the whipple kit

 

[Whipple Charged]

Since you brought it up, I'll start there.:banana:

Whipple supplies you with a bolt to use under the inlet and at the rear of the fuel rail on the driver side. It is the zinc coated one on the right.

It is too long. I ended up cutting a second time because it still wouldn't clear the inlet and thread into the fuel rail boss. The magic number was 7/16" of thread under the bolt head.

Pain enough trying to seat the rear most injector, let alone deal with the bolt. Tip - you don't have to remove the safety clip from the injector as the directions state. I tried it both ways (since I'm such a glutton I figured why not?). You can see both in the following photo. The bolt has been fit, is at the bare minimum length and is ready for David Copperfield to show up and get the threads started.

Passenger side rail went on without a hitch.

Back to my other favorite place. You can see why Whipple utilized button head fasteners for the bypass actuator bracket. The harness that I released previously would be squished if regular bolts were used. The contour my finger is holding the harness over to is what I was looking for. The idea is to keep it away from the EGR tube.

I wanted to use the original bracket, but at the current length it was yet again trying to force it into the bypass hardware. I compromised and settled on a shortened bracket that would redirect the harness away from the EGR tube but still allow it to be directed away from blower interference.

One bolt did the trick. Two would have made things tight again.

I used red RTV on the EGR adapter (EGR to blower case side) due to its higher heat capacity (if that makes any difference).

I reused the steel gasket between the EGR valve itself and the adapter.

It is a little tricky joining the EGR tube at the manifold, at the EGR valve itself, and being able to thread the included fasteners to draw the EGR valve in tight. Once the valve was tight, I tightened the tube up at either end (12"crescent still worked without issue).

I actually had to back and loosen the passenger side fuel rail bolts so that the rail no longer made contact with the rail. Were I to do it again, I would have dressed up the bottom of the valve casting with a die grinder to minimize thermal transfer of heat to the rail from the EGR valve.

As to the rest of the connections at the back, you have to "borrow" the original blower's pieces in order for the EGR valve to work. Whipple changes some of this with their unit. First is to pull off the what you see disconnected below. The line running to the original bypass actuator gets plugged with a small plastic piece that Whipple supplies.

I inserted the plug as directed but also put a dab of RTV inside to ensure a good seal.

You also add the threaded fittings to the machined aluminum adapter at this time.

You can also attach the requisite connectors to the back of the inlet at this time as well. I'm not big on the necessary bend to the hose coming from the brake booster. I may shorten it for a more natural radius. Also, note the sheet metal above the top hose on the left. I had to disconnect a wiring harness and then bend the sheet metal back with my hand to allow clearance.

I moved onto slipping the blower belt, using the method that Chris mentioned in his write up. It worked perfectly. The blower lube then went in. Note the sight glass.

Since I'm still waiting for a response to my "what is the proper gap for the included spark plugs?" question, I couldn't finish that or the intake tract. I did want to see how the included air cleaner assembly would fit.

While the holes in the '09 body do line up with the locating rubber bungs on the underside of the housing, it seems an odd fit.

I can forget any visions I had of trying to adapt the hole on the side to the newer ducting. That'd be a road to nowhere as there simply isn't any room. I need the plug that Whipple shows in the directions but that I didn't get.

Brief interlude...and a comparison of the FRPP CAI and the Whipple/SVT hybrid.

Mocked into place, I'm hoping there will be more clearance than what I see now...

So, I'm awaiting the Procal tuner and tune. I still need to change the fuel pump. It would be nice if that is a simple switch (for once!:-D) New plugs, intake tract....then I'll turn the key.

This is where I am as of now.

Believe it or not, I'm rather enjoying this. I hope it helps anyone be better prepared for their own install.

Tob

The GT 500 engine location in relation to the firewall vary about 5mm. Its best, instead of denting the firewall, to loosen the K-member and slide the motor forward.

We use .025" spark plug gap.

Thanks