Damn it!
WE DO NOT USE CHEAP BEARINGS!
If you have a suggestion as to what bearing we should be using, please offer it up.
So why so many stories of your pullies failing after 5-10k miles? Meanwhile stock idlers go for 100k +
Damn it!
WE DO NOT USE CHEAP BEARINGS!
If you have a suggestion as to what bearing we should be using, please offer it up.
So why so many stories of your pullies failing after 5-10k miles? Meanwhile stock idlers go for 100k +
110k on mine
ok, so if the billetflow bearings are bad, do you have to repleace the whole pulley esembely or do you just have to replace the bearing when they go bad. and if the billetflow arent worth the money who else makes a set like the 4 piece plus aux idler kit that billet makes that would have better quality bearings. the one thing that i liked about the billet flow was the fact that they mad a matching set for all of the pullies. does anybody have an opinions on steeda pullies????
^^you have to have a press and press out old, then press in new bearing. 5 min job with press. Without = damaged pulley or bruised fingers from beating on them with hammer:nonono:.
The double pulley idlers probably last a LOT longer
consider yourself lucky and anyone else who has had them last over, lets say about 50k miles. I personally think the issue with the factory is because of water getting on them and in the bearings. Even though I thought they were sealed bearings. either way, I have never seen an aftermarket idler fail like the factory and the only failures I have seen with aftermarket are the bearings. I will take spending money on new bearings any day over the risk of spending hundreds replacing parts because a steel idler splits.
BF bearings aren't bad. I have had BF and RR idlers. no issues with either and before someone says anything about me being a dealer for BF, I am a dealer for lethal as well and direct with RR and Metco, so I can get any idler out there. My personal experience is with BF and RR and never had problems with either.
I highly recommend using a press, but a socket and hammer works fine as well. you need to make sure the bearing goes in straight.
I have seen then go bad as well.
These companies making aftermarket idlers do not make the bearings. Every company has failures and there could be other reasons the bearings may go bad and not just because the company making them has a bad batch or something (user error). Some of you making claims about places using bad bearings, show proof of it instead of just some internet post. Go do some proper testing/research on different bearings and report back your findings.
If I remember I will have to locate some different idlers and check out the part numbers for the bearings. how ironic would it be if they were the same bearing in different companys idlers. Then what would be the argument?
OP, once you start modding, the idlers should be changed for the simple fact of peace of mind. While yes, we know some have lasted, the likelihood is not that great that they will. Along with that they look like crap. lol
For whoever said the double bearing idlers are way better... I suppose, in theory that may be true, because you have more of the pulley width being supported. If the bearing (s) used are not really good, though, you have the same fundamental problems as a single, and it costs you twice as much to repair.:dw:
BF bearings aren't bad. I have had BF and RR idlers. no issues with either and before someone says anything about me being a dealer for BF, I am a dealer for lethal as well and direct with RR and Metco, so I can get any idler out there. My personal experience is with BF and RR and never had problems with either.
I highly recommend using a press, but a socket and hammer works fine as well. you need to make sure the bearing goes in straight.
I have seen then go bad as well.
These companies making aftermarket idlers do not make the bearings. Every company has failures and there could be other reasons the bearings may go bad and not just because the company making them has a bad batch or something (user error). Some of you making claims about places using bad bearings, show proof of it instead of just some internet post. Go do some proper testing/research on different bearings and report back your findings.
If I remember I will have to locate some different idlers and check out the part numbers for the bearings. how ironic would it be if they were the same bearing in different companys idlers. Then what would be the argument?
OP, once you start modding, the idlers should be changed for the simple fact of peace of mind. While yes, we know some have lasted, the likelihood is not that great that they will. Along with that they look like crap. lol
You are right, and I have thought about that too. You are only spinning the blower faster - everything else stays at the same ratio - unless you install a larger lower pulley. With that being said, though, it is never a bad thing to upgrade those cheap stamped ones with a quality billet part from BF, or Metco. I happen to have both on my car. I have a the Metco dual bearing snub idler, but BF ones for all of the others. Very low mileage on the BF ones, though, and they are already starting to tick when cold.:nonono: Guess I will be replacing all of the bearings this winter. Only downside to the BF idlers, is that they use cheap bearings, so you don't get nearly the life out of them as the stock idlers.:rollseyes
I'm glad you made this point because I was about to.the lateral load created by the belt that creates more boost ...you are doubling (in most cases) the speed of the Eaton, thereby increasing the load AND increasing the needed HP to spin the blower faster to make more HP.
Poor design?
consider yourself lucky and anyone else who has had them last over, lets say about 50k miles. I personally think the issue with the factory is because of water getting on them and in the bearings. Even though I thought they were sealed bearings. either way, I have never seen an aftermarket idler fail like the factory and the only failures I have seen with aftermarket are the bearings. I will take spending money on new bearings any day over the risk of spending hundreds replacing parts because a steel idler splits.
BF bearings aren't bad. I have had BF and RR idlers. no issues with either and before someone says anything about me being a dealer for BF, I am a dealer for lethal as well and direct with RR and Metco, so I can get any idler out there. My personal experience is with BF and RR and never had problems with either.
I highly recommend using a press, but a socket and hammer works fine as well. you need to make sure the bearing goes in straight.
I have seen then go bad as well.
These companies making aftermarket idlers do not make the bearings. Every
company has failures and there could be other reasons the bearings may go bad and not just because the company making them has a bad batch or something (user error). Some of you making claims about places using bad bearings, show proof of it instead of just some internet post. Go do some proper testing/research on different bearings and report back your findings.
If I remember I will have to locate some different idlers and check out the part numbers for the bearings. how ironic would it be if they were the same bearing in different companys idlers. Then what would be the argument?
OP, once you start modding, the idlers should be changed for the simple fact of peace of mind. While yes, we know some have lasted, the likelihood is not that great that they will. Along with that they look like crap. lol