Are my pullies worn out (pic included)

Jomo1994z71

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No. I would not sweat it if you are running a stock upper pulley. If you are running extra boost, I suggest replacing with Billetflow or Metco. I have some mint stock idlers if it makes you feel better. If interested let me know,
Joe
 

Bruin08

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I am going to just run these and then when I get around to doing the rest of the performance modicfications I am going to upgrade to the billet flow 4 idler kit with the aux. idler pulley and go with a smaller s/c pulley. just dont know what size yet. all I want to do is increase the hp i dont need to go crazy to the point where if i go to small with the s/c pulley i end up having to upgrade all kinds of other stuff cause im creating to much boost. whats a good size???? i wont be changing the lower crank case pulley either btw. just going to keep that stock
 

VtekII

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Uusually dont have to upgrade or worry about much with a 2.93 pulley.. every car is different but seems that the 2.9 is the smallest you can go before worrying about injectors or any of that biz!
 

Jomo1994z71

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2.76 From Billetflow upper and the matching idlers. With this setup you can reuse the stock 75.1 inch belt. I ran this setup for about a year before the Kenne Bell. No bigger injectors or BAP or bigger MAF was needed. This is the case with 90% of Terminators through my research and years on the board...
Power was around 450/450 and the car pulled hard
Good luck
 

Spoolx

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Everyone always says you have to upgrade your idlers when you change your upper? But why is that? The belt isnt spinning any faster so how would the idlers make a difference?
 

04sleeper

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I would look into a new set of idlers.

Just do a search. There are numerous threads on the stock idlers failing. They break apart and take out anything in their path.
 

Bruin08

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2.76 From Billetflow upper and the matching idlers. With this setup you can reuse the stock 75.1 inch belt. I ran this setup for about a year before the Kenne Bell. No bigger injectors or BAP or bigger MAF was needed. This is the case with 90% of Terminators through my research and years on the board...
Power was around 450/450 and the car pulled hard
Good luck

This is actually the setup I was considering going with. If I do choose to go with this I want to make sure I am understanding this right. I would need to get my car tuned, correct? Anything else I should know. Only other thing to decide is do I want to spend the extra 50 or so dollars to get the anodized pullies. I really dont know what that mean so could some1 help me out with that.
 

black 10th vert

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Everyone always says you have to upgrade your idlers when you change your upper? But why is that? The belt isnt spinning any faster so how would the idlers make a difference?

You are right, and I have thought about that too. You are only spinning the blower faster - everything else stays at the same ratio - unless you install a larger lower pulley. With that being said, though, it is never a bad thing to upgrade those cheap stamped ones with a quality billet part from BF, or Metco. I happen to have both on my car. I have a the Metco dual bearing snub idler, but BF ones for all of the others. Very low mileage on the BF ones, though, and they are already starting to tick when cold.:nonono: Guess I will be replacing all of the bearings this winter. Only downside to the BF idlers, is that they use cheap bearings, so you don't get nearly the life out of them as the stock idlers.:rollseyes
 

dougwg

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You are right, and I have thought about that too. You are only spinning the blower faster - everything else stays at the same ratio - unless you install a larger lower pulley. With that being said, though, it is never a bad thing to upgrade those cheap stamped ones with a quality billet part from BF, or Metco. I happen to have both on my car. I have a the Metco dual bearing snub idler, but BF ones for all of the others. Very low mileage on the BF ones, though, and they are already starting to tick when cold.:nonono: Guess I will be replacing all of the bearings this winter. Only downside to the BF idlers, is that they use cheap bearings, so you don't get nearly the life out of them as the stock idlers.:rollseyes
Damn it!

WE DO NOT USE CHEAP BEARINGS!

If you have a suggestion as to what bearing we should be using, please offer it up.
 

CobraBob

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Everyone always says you have to upgrade your idlers when you change your upper? But why is that? The belt isn't spinning any faster so how would the idlers make a difference?

The answer is belt wrap. With the auxiliary idler(s) you are increasing the surface area that contacts the belt, thus reducing belt slip.

Also, the stock idlers are stamped steel and have been known to literally come apart. I highly recommend aftermarket idlers. If you have the stock upper pulley you can go with a 3-piece idler set. Or a 4-piece with the extra idler. If you have a smaller upper (ie. 2.90/2.93, 2.80/2.76) then go with the 4-piece idler set. I do not recommend mixing stock idlers with aftermarket idlers due to the inferior quality of the stock idlers.
 

Bruin08

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im going to just change the belts right now because i want to stop the squeaking and slippage. so when i start getting serious and really start dropping money and modding and fixing up the car i will go with the billetflow 4 piece w/ aux. idler with the 2.7 upper pulley. if i still have the squeaking or slippage after i change the belts then i will just have to give in and get the better pullies and try the gatorback, i went with gates. we shall see in about 3 weeks when i get a chance to change the belts.
 

ruthless

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Oh my they could explode at anytime. You better buy the METCOs I have for sale. LOL Just kidding...They look fine and as long as they are not making noise they should be fine until you up the boost.
 

mu22stang

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When you increase the serpentine belt's tension beyond factory spec, you can exceed the design load of the factory idlers. You can see this clearly from pictures of the failures.
 

mmustangsrus

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I would look into a new set of idlers.

Just do a search. There are numerous threads on the stock idlers failing. They break apart and take out anything in their path.
x264647374 !!

yea i`ve seen them come apart its not pretty :eek:


You are right, and I have thought about that too. You are only spinning the blower faster - everything else stays at the same ratio - unless you install a larger lower pulley. With that being said, though, it is never a bad thing to upgrade those cheap stamped ones with a quality billet part from BF, or Metco. I happen to have both on my car. I have a the Metco dual bearing snub idler, but BF ones for all of the others. Very low mileage on the BF ones, though, and they are already starting to tick when cold.:nonono: Guess I will be replacing all of the bearings this winter. Only downside to the BF idlers, is that they use cheap bearings, so you don't get nearly the life out of them as the stock idlers.:rollseyes

yea mine tick when cold too !
 

black 10th vert

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Damn it!

WE DO NOT USE CHEAP BEARINGS!

If you have a suggestion as to what bearing we should be using, please offer it up.

No offense, Doug. I was going by what has been posted numerous times on these boards of bearing failures, some of which had less than 5K miles. My own have only around that much and are already making noise now, which is why I mentioned it. You make very nice quality parts, however you can't always control the quality of outsourced components, such as bearings, so no one is blaming you. I do however wish that the black hardcoat option had been available back when mine were bought, because the silver anodize is pretty worn on the belt surface.
 

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