Are my pullies worn out (pic included)

[Spoolx]

Damn it!

WE DO NOT USE CHEAP BEARINGS!

If you have a suggestion as to what bearing we should be using, please offer it up.

So why so many stories of your pullies failing after 5-10k miles? Meanwhile stock idlers go for 100k +

 

[TRBO VNM]

So why so many stories of your pullies failing after 5-10k miles? Meanwhile stock idlers go for 100k +

there may be, but I haven't seen anyone show using stock idlers for 100+K miles.

you also don't see BF's exploding like the factory. that is worth the money right there. there was a guy on here that had to spend over $500 on replacement parts because his lower idler blew apart and the belt ripped and took out a bunch of stuff. you don't see that with aftermarket quality idlers and it is very common with factory.

 

[cbr repsol]

I have all the stock idlers and never had a problem, 64k on her now.

 

[Spoolx]

110k on mine

 

[Bruin08]

ok, so if the billetflow bearings are bad, do you have to repleace the whole pulley esembely or do you just have to replace the bearing when they go bad. and if the billetflow arent worth the money who else makes a set like the 4 piece plus aux idler kit that billet makes that would have better quality bearings. the one thing that i liked about the billet flow was the fact that they mad a matching set for all of the pullies. does anybody have an opinions on steeda pullies????

 

[cbr repsol]

^^you have to have a press and press out old, then press in new bearing. 5 min job with press. Without = damaged pulley or bruised fingers from beating on them with hammer:nonono:.

 

[Spoolx]

The double pulley idlers probably last a LOT longer

 

[TRBO VNM]

110k on mine

consider yourself lucky and anyone else who has had them last over, lets say about 50k miles. I personally think the issue with the factory is because of water getting on them and in the bearings. Even though I thought they were sealed bearings. either way, I have never seen an aftermarket idler fail like the factory and the only failures I have seen with aftermarket are the bearings. I will take spending money on new bearings any day over the risk of spending hundreds replacing parts because a steel idler splits.

ok, so if the billetflow bearings are bad, do you have to repleace the whole pulley esembely or do you just have to replace the bearing when they go bad. and if the billetflow arent worth the money who else makes a set like the 4 piece plus aux idler kit that billet makes that would have better quality bearings. the one thing that i liked about the billet flow was the fact that they mad a matching set for all of the pullies. does anybody have an opinions on steeda pullies????

BF bearings aren't bad. I have had BF and RR idlers. no issues with either and before someone says anything about me being a dealer for BF, I am a dealer for lethal as well and direct with RR and Metco, so I can get any idler out there. My personal experience is with BF and RR and never had problems with either.

^^you have to have a press and press out old, then press in new bearing. 5 min job with press. Without = damaged pulley or bruised fingers from beating on them with hammer:nonono:.

I highly recommend using a press, but a socket and hammer works fine as well. you need to make sure the bearing goes in straight.

The double pulley idlers probably last a LOT longer

I have seen then go bad as well.



These companies making aftermarket idlers do not make the bearings. Every company has failures and there could be other reasons the bearings may go bad and not just because the company making them has a bad batch or something (user error). Some of you making claims about places using bad bearings, show proof of it instead of just some internet post. Go do some proper testing/research on different bearings and report back your findings.

If I remember I will have to locate some different idlers and check out the part numbers for the bearings. how ironic would it be if they were the same bearing in different companys idlers. Then what would be the argument?

OP, once you start modding, the idlers should be changed for the simple fact of peace of mind. While yes, we know some have lasted, the likelihood is not that great that they will. Along with that they look like crap. lol

 

[black 10th vert]

consider yourself lucky and anyone else who has had them last over, lets say about 50k miles. I personally think the issue with the factory is because of water getting on them and in the bearings. Even though I thought they were sealed bearings. either way, I have never seen an aftermarket idler fail like the factory and the only failures I have seen with aftermarket are the bearings. I will take spending money on new bearings any day over the risk of spending hundreds replacing parts because a steel idler splits.



BF bearings aren't bad. I have had BF and RR idlers. no issues with either and before someone says anything about me being a dealer for BF, I am a dealer for lethal as well and direct with RR and Metco, so I can get any idler out there. My personal experience is with BF and RR and never had problems with either.



I highly recommend using a press, but a socket and hammer works fine as well. you need to make sure the bearing goes in straight.



I have seen then go bad as well.



These companies making aftermarket idlers do not make the bearings. Every company has failures and there could be other reasons the bearings may go bad and not just because the company making them has a bad batch or something (user error). Some of you making claims about places using bad bearings, show proof of it instead of just some internet post. Go do some proper testing/research on different bearings and report back your findings.

If I remember I will have to locate some different idlers and check out the part numbers for the bearings. how ironic would it be if they were the same bearing in different companys idlers. Then what would be the argument?

OP, once you start modding, the idlers should be changed for the simple fact of peace of mind. While yes, we know some have lasted, the likelihood is not that great that they will. Along with that they look like crap. lol

^exactly the point I made after replying to Doug's rebuttal. His machine work is top notch, and you are right that is is a way better deal having to replace bearings every now, and then, rather than dealing with a grenaded steel idler! For me, replacing them was mainly for aesthetic reasons, but the added margin of safety is always nice too.

For whoever said the double bearing idlers are way better... I suppose, in theory that may be true, because you have more of the pulley width being supported. If the bearing (s) used are not really good, though, you have the same fundamental problems as a single, and it costs you twice as much to repair.:dw: I have a double bearing Metco in the snub position (on a BF bracket). The only reason I bought it was because the BF that I had there was starting to look crappy because the anodize was wearing off. I just figured I would try the double one because it was hardcoated, and looked really nice. We will see how well it holds up, bearing-wise, though...

 

[2003cobraguy]

i run metco idler set w/ 2.8 upper & intake/exhaust

im at 97% fuel pump duty cycle, and almost pegged on air as well....but th car made 480/486 on a mustang dyno

car is winterized anyway...next year she will feel a lot better

 

[Spoolx]

For whoever said the double bearing idlers are way better... I suppose, in theory that may be true, because you have more of the pulley width being supported. If the bearing (s) used are not really good, though, you have the same fundamental problems as a single, and it costs you twice as much to repair.:dw:

Has nothing to do with the pulley width being supported, it has to do with the fact that ball bearings can sustain almost no angular deflection, just a couple degrees will destroy a bearing in no time. Two bearings keep the pulley from cocking and make the bearings last alot longer. Same reason why everything else that has a spinning shaft running through it has two bearings (Think spindle, pinion etc)

 

[Spoolx]

BF bearings aren't bad. I have had BF and RR idlers. no issues with either and before someone says anything about me being a dealer for BF, I am a dealer for lethal as well and direct with RR and Metco, so I can get any idler out there. My personal experience is with BF and RR and never had problems with either.



I highly recommend using a press, but a socket and hammer works fine as well. you need to make sure the bearing goes in straight.



I have seen then go bad as well.



These companies making aftermarket idlers do not make the bearings. Every company has failures and there could be other reasons the bearings may go bad and not just because the company making them has a bad batch or something (user error). Some of you making claims about places using bad bearings, show proof of it instead of just some internet post. Go do some proper testing/research on different bearings and report back your findings.

If I remember I will have to locate some different idlers and check out the part numbers for the bearings. how ironic would it be if they were the same bearing in different companys idlers. Then what would be the argument?

OP, once you start modding, the idlers should be changed for the simple fact of peace of mind. While yes, we know some have lasted, the likelihood is not that great that they will. Along with that they look like crap. lol

Poor design?

 

[D-Rock]

You are right, and I have thought about that too. You are only spinning the blower faster - everything else stays at the same ratio - unless you install a larger lower pulley. With that being said, though, it is never a bad thing to upgrade those cheap stamped ones with a quality billet part from BF, or Metco. I happen to have both on my car. I have a the Metco dual bearing snub idler, but BF ones for all of the others. Very low mileage on the BF ones, though, and they are already starting to tick when cold.:nonono: Guess I will be replacing all of the bearings this winter. Only downside to the BF idlers, is that they use cheap bearings, so you don't get nearly the life out of them as the stock idlers.:rollseyes

Disclaimer - not an engineer. The answer is not in belt speed but load and by load, I do not mean tension - I mean the lateral load created by the belt that creates more boost and more HP.

Think of it this way - where is the horsepower directed? At the crank. Where is the lower pulley connected? At the crank. Add to it that all blowers use HP to make HP, you are doubling (in most cases) the speed of the Eaton, thereby increasing the load AND increasing the needed HP to spin the blower faster to make more HP. You can also think of it as a "tire" - tires can and do fail at speed, but they usually fail becuase of load.

The stock idlers do not fail because of speed - it is the load that is generated by making more HP and boost.

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

the lateral load created by the belt that creates more boost ...you are doubling (in most cases) the speed of the Eaton, thereby increasing the load AND increasing the needed HP to spin the blower faster to make more HP.

I'm glad you made this point because I was about to.

Indeed the load side of the belt will see higher stress levels with a smaller blower pulley: this includes the 2 stock idlers and the aux idler along with the alternator. The additional load will also stretch the belt more under WOT. So no, not everything is the same just because the crank and idlers spin the same speed.

 

[TRBO VNM]

Poor design?

I sure hope your comment would be in regards to poor design of the bearing.

 

[Spoolx]

Ninja edit

 

[03 Indy Cobra]

consider yourself lucky and anyone else who has had them last over, lets say about 50k miles. I personally think the issue with the factory is because of water getting on them and in the bearings. Even though I thought they were sealed bearings. either way, I have never seen an aftermarket idler fail like the factory and the only failures I have seen with aftermarket are the bearings. I will take spending money on new bearings any day over the risk of spending hundreds replacing parts because a steel idler splits.



BF bearings aren't bad. I have had BF and RR idlers. no issues with either and before someone says anything about me being a dealer for BF, I am a dealer for lethal as well and direct with RR and Metco, so I can get any idler out there. My personal experience is with BF and RR and never had problems with either.



I highly recommend using a press, but a socket and hammer works fine as well. you need to make sure the bearing goes in straight.



I have seen then go bad as well.

These companies making aftermarket idlers do not make the bearings. Every
company has failures and there could be other reasons the bearings may go bad and not just because the company making them has a bad batch or something (user error). Some of you making claims about places using bad bearings, show proof of it instead of just some internet post. Go do some proper testing/research on different bearings and report back your findings.

If I remember I will have to locate some different idlers and check out the part numbers for the bearings. how ironic would it be if they were the same bearing in different companys idlers. Then what would be the argument?
OP, once you start modding, the idlers should be changed for the simple fact of peace of mind. While yes, we know some have lasted, the likelihood is not that great that they will. Along with that they look like crap. lol

I agree. I have Billetflow idlers and have had no problem with them. Just like what's already been said Billetflow gets the bearings from another company and there will be a bad one every now and then. Same with any other company that makes idlers. The thing that makes Billetflow stand apart is that over the years Doug has gone out of his way to making customers happy even replacing bearings. So if quality parts and great customer service(even after the sale) is what you are looking for get the Billetflows.