If you were running a Kenne Bell supercharger system we actually make a billet plate system that sits under the supercharger that places in 2 nozzles to spray methanol. Great system and works amazingly!
Nitrous or Meth?
- Thread starter DavidHasselhoff
- Start date
do you want to buy my meth kit off my GT500, Im going to convert to E85. Meth isn't doing my GT500 any good. I have the snow performance kit as you can see mounted where my battery use to be.
Maybe. Which kit is it?
Bottle for the win just have a decent tune in it and throw a high quality race gas in it maybe like half c-16 half pump gas (when you spray) and I would think you would have the best of both worlds. (waits for flaming)
-Cameron
-Cameron
Been on vacation for a few days.......this statement is nuts.....never implied or said my blower wasn't hot after a pass.....simply stated methanol injection will allow you to run an agressive race tune on pump gas and it will help your car to be more consistent by not pulling timing after several runs. Does my blower get hot with a 2.2 pulley and a 10% underdrive pulley.....of course.....could I run 20lbs. of boost and 23 degrees of timing on 92 octane.....no way.....The "it's corrosive" claim is a little strange when the turbo guys have been running gallons of the stuff with awesome results through their motors for years.:shrug: Just wondering how many guys with factory blowers and factory cams without NOS are running consistent 10.50-10.60's on pump gas.:beer:
BJ had those times on c-16
If the cooling fails I'll still have the octane boost right? The cooling isn't all that important. It stays around 120 during 85-90 degree weather while I'm cruising at 20 mph. If y'all understand, I'm trying to make my tune to where it's aggressive and doesn't retard timing at 125 IAT2s like it does right now. Worst come to worst, I'll have a higher octane with the same IAT2s and I'll be able to up my timing to be pulled at around 140-150 IAT2s which I very very seldom see, so timing will never be pulled. I'm not expecting a giant drop in IAT2 temps, maybe 10 degrees max. I figure this is a better alternative to race fuel and swapping between tunes etc.
^^ Yea, I'm debating on what to go with now. It's a daily driving and it gets hot her. If the tanks in the engine bay I don't think I'd want to have 100% meth then because it's boiling point is 147 and it'd get that hot under the hood easily. I'm going no less than 50/50, but I heard 70/30 is the best for roots style blowers.
You want to make sure you are consistent with your mix in regards to ratio and quality of what you are mixing. Personally, just because it was easy, I used Snow meth premix. Have you contacted Snow or Aquamist to see if they have knowledge of any other GT500s running their kits? Might be worth a shot to see what they say.
I spoke with John Lund & he recommended alkycontrol. I talked to the guy at alkycontrol and the kit is a pretty nice setup. Lund approved of that kit & I guess I'll go with this kit since my tuner is comfortable with tuning this kit. Also I need to figure out what mix I will go with because the guy from alkycontrol said if I go with a 50/50 mis he'd put a smaller nozzle with the kit instead of the nozzle he'd run with 100% meth. For daily driving purposes, 100% meth may not be my best bet. I'd like to test a few mixes out though.
So who will take responsibility if the engine goes ? I can answer that for you from experience. You will. Why do you think so many guys with 2007/2009's blow engines. Because they push it to the max with no protection. Its your pockets that will be paying for an engine. So you are the one that needs to take care of it and make the right decisions. Or just go ahead and build a new one. Then you can raise the comparison and lower the boost. Making more HP with lower ITC safely. I'm telling yea. When the red LED comes on. Its way to late if she is WOT @ 6 K. Go ahead and push it. If you have the money. Everyone will say its your fault anyway. I like the bad gas story. Heard it a million times.
Jon lund said you make the a/f richer, not leaner when you tune for Meth. So if the Meth fails it'll be rich and safe anyway. I'm not going to be running a super aggressive setup that puts my a/f past a 13.0 if the system fails. I'm looking into the safest way to use this. I'm more than likely going to use a 70/30 or 80/20 mix to keep the Meth/water mix from over richening my a/f but also reduce the risk of detonation and help cooling a tad more.
I was recommended to use pure Meth but since its hot here n the car would be sitting n a hot parking lot at times with the Meth tank in the engine bay...it'd boil. The water will help keep the Meth from boiling at those temps.
The bottom line is that if you tune for meth and the system fails, odds are your motor will blow. That's just the nature of the beast. You might get lucky but I doubt it. When you run NOS or Meth, you need to understand that there could be the instance of a catastrophic failure. Regarding the proper mixture, here is advice direct from Snow Performance. I didn't mess around with home brew mixes....I saw what happens to the motors of people who did. Likely better than taking a less than educated wild arse guess:
Quote from Snow Performance:
We hear various opinions on the subject on "if it is safe to run 100% methanol with Boost Cooler Systems". There will always be opinions but here are the facts related to the most common questions we get on this subject.
Q: Can I run 100% pure straight M100 methanol in my system?
A: YES
Q: Will 100% methanol damage my Boost Cooler system?
A: NO
Q: Should I run 100% methanol in my system?
A: NO
Q: Why Not?
A: SAFTEY
Q: Please explain....
A: OK
Methanol has a boiling point of 148F (65C). What happens when a liquid boils? It changes from liquid state to vapor. If there is enough vapor present it can be ignited with a spark, open flame, or spontaneously combustion if it is hot enough. Now, what is the temperature in the typical automotive engine bay? Well because of SAE specs I design all our electronics for 221F (105C). But on an average hot day the typical engine bay temps might be in the range of 150F to 185F. So see the issue?
This would be a good point to note that if methanol is burning the flame is nearly invisible.
Ok, so the autoignition temperature of 100% methanol is 851F (455C) that is well above engine bay temps so no worries right? .
Wrong.
What was the temp reading on your EGT gauge last time you looked 800F, 1000F,....1600F? (note if you see 1600 while using a Boost Cooler call our tech line as something is not right)
So in short running 100% methanol in your engine bay you risk the chance of an invisible fire while refilling your methanol tank after that last 1/4 mile pass.
Q: Ok so I will install my Tank, pump and 100% methanol in the trunk.
A: Good idea, also would be safer to vent the tank to external of the vehicle. Use a SFI rated fuel cell or tank and proper venting install to prevent any fumes from accumulating in passenger area of the vehicle.
Q: So the only reason Snow does not recommend 100% methanol is just because of safety?
A: Well safety is a good reason, but at 100% methanol you are basically running a dual fuel engine. There are many benefits to mixing water with methanol besides safety. Injected in the right quantity water increases the detonation resistance of the air fuel charge (or octane rating if you want) and has a steam effect on the power stroke of the engine cycle leading to more torque. (Same principle that Steam engines were designed around)
Our research and testing has shown that a 50/50 mix of water and methanol produces the best combination of intake cooling and detonation control.
Any more questions let me know.
Best regards,
Dan
Quote from Snow Performance:
We hear various opinions on the subject on "if it is safe to run 100% methanol with Boost Cooler Systems". There will always be opinions but here are the facts related to the most common questions we get on this subject.
Q: Can I run 100% pure straight M100 methanol in my system?
A: YES
Q: Will 100% methanol damage my Boost Cooler system?
A: NO
Q: Should I run 100% methanol in my system?
A: NO
Q: Why Not?
A: SAFTEY
Q: Please explain....
A: OK
Methanol has a boiling point of 148F (65C). What happens when a liquid boils? It changes from liquid state to vapor. If there is enough vapor present it can be ignited with a spark, open flame, or spontaneously combustion if it is hot enough. Now, what is the temperature in the typical automotive engine bay? Well because of SAE specs I design all our electronics for 221F (105C). But on an average hot day the typical engine bay temps might be in the range of 150F to 185F. So see the issue?
This would be a good point to note that if methanol is burning the flame is nearly invisible.
Ok, so the autoignition temperature of 100% methanol is 851F (455C) that is well above engine bay temps so no worries right? .
Wrong.
What was the temp reading on your EGT gauge last time you looked 800F, 1000F,....1600F? (note if you see 1600 while using a Boost Cooler call our tech line as something is not right)
So in short running 100% methanol in your engine bay you risk the chance of an invisible fire while refilling your methanol tank after that last 1/4 mile pass.
Q: Ok so I will install my Tank, pump and 100% methanol in the trunk.
A: Good idea, also would be safer to vent the tank to external of the vehicle. Use a SFI rated fuel cell or tank and proper venting install to prevent any fumes from accumulating in passenger area of the vehicle.
Q: So the only reason Snow does not recommend 100% methanol is just because of safety?
A: Well safety is a good reason, but at 100% methanol you are basically running a dual fuel engine. There are many benefits to mixing water with methanol besides safety. Injected in the right quantity water increases the detonation resistance of the air fuel charge (or octane rating if you want) and has a steam effect on the power stroke of the engine cycle leading to more torque. (Same principle that Steam engines were designed around)
Our research and testing has shown that a 50/50 mix of water and methanol produces the best combination of intake cooling and detonation control.
Any more questions let me know.
Best regards,
Dan
Should I pickup the Stage 3 Meth kit from snow from a buddy, used for $350, or get a brand new AIS trunk mount kit for $600. The Stage 3 kit I'll have to add a bunch of crap to so it'll come out to be the same price with dual nozzle upgrades etc. I talked to snow & it just seems that they don't know wtf they're talking about on the phone......Rodney from AIS seems to know his shit though and makes me feel like the kit was better laid out by himself than it being thrown together by snow. I just need an opinion on this matter. Also the AIS is alot easier to install.
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with meth you can tune your car that if the IAT's skyrocket you can have the computer pull an assload of timing....thus saving your motor
AIS.....keep it simple.....most guys on this forum do not run meth let alone know the difference between a Snow kit and an AIS kit.....Rodney reminds me alot of Van when it comes to customer service.....IMO he deserves the business and has the best kit. If you have to add a bunch of parts to a used Snow kit I don't see how it could be worth the hassel.
That's what I was figuring. I'm getting the stage 2 kit from AIS. My tuner recommended the controller.
Meth is crap with a top mount blower...NOS all the way!! The blower heat will typically negate the cooling affect of meth. If it was a cent blower or turbo meth would be the bomb!!! You could always buy a turbo!!
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