BMC Blown Motor Club

[serickson1]

I have had excellent results with a trunk mount methanol injection set up by AIS. The arguement everybody has on this forum is it does not work to lower IAT's......or that if it malfunctions you will blow your motor instantly......first of all I have a dual fan heat exchanger and 5.5 gal trunk mount innercooler resivour to deal with the IAT's......secondly my car is tuned to run A/F #'s in the high 11 range without the methanol and mid to low 10's with the methanol. I run 100% methanol with a dual nozzle system directly into the back of the blower. When you run 100% methanol the car will make great power with A/F #'s that otherwise would be considered fat. This gives you some margin of error if you have a malfunction. With the common problem of poor fuel that we all face I have no idea how anybody can drop $15,000 to $25,000 on an engine build and not have a methanol injection system. We are seeing motors on this thread that are overbuilt by proffesional shops that are dropping pistons because of poor fuel.
The same guys will dis meth injection......but I'll take my 110+ octane all day long......the 10.56 in my sig is on 92 octane pump gas with a factory blower....I ran that time with a stock throttle body.....I currently hold the record on this forum for MPH with a factory blower at 135.35 and have backed that up with a 134.99 and 135.05 all on pump gas....:beer:

 

[bull3441]

I have had excellent results with a trunk mount methanol injection set up by AIS. The arguement everybody has on this forum is it does not work to lower IAT's......or that if it malfunctions you will blow your motor instantly......first of all I have a dual fan heat exchanger and 5.5 gal trunk mount innercooler resivour to deal with the IAT's......secondly my car is tuned to run A/F #'s in the high 11 range without the methanol and mid to low 10's with the methanol. I run 100% methanol with a dual nozzle system directly into the back of the blower. When you run 100% methanol the car will make great power with A/F #'s that otherwise would be considered fat. This gives you some margin of error if you have a malfunction. With the common problem of poor fuel that we all face I have no idea how anybody can drop $15,000 to $25,000 on an engine build and not have a methanol injection system. We are seeing motors on this thread that are overbuilt by proffesional shops that are dropping pistons because of poor fuel.
The same guys will dis meth injection......but I'll take my 110+ octane all day long......the 10.56 in my sig is on 92 octane pump gas with a factory blower....I ran that time with a stock throttle body.....I currently hold the record on this forum for MPH with a factory blower at 135.35 and have backed that up with a 134.99 and 135.05 all on pump gas....:beer:

do you have any pics of your set-up? i'm a big fan of meth and ran it for years on my turbo car.

 

[slocum1946]

I have had excellent results with a trunk mount methanol injection set up by AIS. The arguement everybody has on this forum is it does not work to lower IAT's......or that if it malfunctions you will blow your motor instantly......first of all I have a dual fan heat exchanger and 5.5 gal trunk mount innercooler resivour to deal with the IAT's......secondly my car is tuned to run A/F #'s in the high 11 range without the methanol and mid to low 10's with the methanol. I run 100% methanol with a dual nozzle system directly into the back of the blower. When you run 100% methanol the car will make great power with A/F #'s that otherwise would be considered fat. This gives you some margin of error if you have a malfunction. With the common problem of poor fuel that we all face I have no idea how anybody can drop $15,000 to $25,000 on an engine build and not have a methanol injection system. We are seeing motors on this thread that are overbuilt by proffesional shops that are dropping pistons because of poor fuel.
The same guys will dis meth injection......but I'll take my 110+ octane all day long......the 10.56 in my sig is on 92 octane pump gas with a factory blower....I ran that time with a stock throttle body.....I currently hold the record on this forum for MPH with a factory blower at 135.35 and have backed that up with a 134.99 and 135.05 all on pump gas....:beer:

well done and intelligently set-up

 

[serickson1]

do you have any pics of your set-up? i'm a big fan of meth and ran it for years on my turbo car.

Here are some pics of my set up



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well done and intelligently set-up

Thanks:beer:

 

[slocum1946]

you're welcome

 

[mustang loco]

I have had excellent results with a trunk mount methanol injection set up by AIS. The arguement everybody has on this forum is it does not work to lower IAT's......or that if it malfunctions you will blow your motor instantly......first of all I have a dual fan heat exchanger and 5.5 gal trunk mount innercooler resivour to deal with the IAT's......secondly my car is tuned to run A/F #'s in the high 11 range without the methanol and mid to low 10's with the methanol. I run 100% methanol with a dual nozzle system directly into the back of the blower. When you run 100% methanol the car will make great power with A/F #'s that otherwise would be considered fat. This gives you some margin of error if you have a malfunction. With the common problem of poor fuel that we all face I have no idea how anybody can drop $15,000 to $25,000 on an engine build and not have a methanol injection system. We are seeing motors on this thread that are overbuilt by proffesional shops that are dropping pistons because of poor fuel.
The same guys will dis meth injection......but I'll take my 110+ octane all day long......the 10.56 in my sig is on 92 octane pump gas with a factory blower....I ran that time with a stock throttle body.....I currently hold the record on this forum for MPH with a factory blower at 135.35 and have backed that up with a 134.99 and 135.05 all on pump gas....:beer:

appreciate your time and knowledge\experience,congrats on your great times at the track and nice pics on your set up!! thx a lot :beer:

 

[rodfarva]

I ran a Snow Meth Injection kit with my old Whipple 2.9 setup with C16, 24 psi boost, and 24 degrees timing on a stock motor. I never had any trouble with it. There were no signs of detonation when I disassembled the motor. I wish that I'd kept this setup with my 4.0 Whipple setup.

 

[bull3441]

Where was your nozzle placement?

 

[rodfarva]

I had dual nozzles in the inlet just before the throttle body

 

[GOTSVT?]

Nice setup!

 

[Illtaketwlight]

If you DONT depend on the stock IA2 readings and use the right race fuel. You'll bypass all this BS.

 

[IEatGt's]

Subscribing.
Interesting reading material.

 

[Blackmax]

Have you guys found the heads suffer much damage when the motor goes lean? My motor still runs but #8 cylinder is hurt some how.

 

[bull3441]

Have you guys found the heads suffer much damage when the motor goes lean? My motor still runs but #8 cylinder is hurt some how.

The heads should be taken apart and properly checked and cleaned. I was lucky and the heads were ok.

 

[stkjock]

The heads should be taken apart and properly checked and cleaned. I was lucky and the heads were ok.

Agreed and same here.

 

[Blackmax]

Agreed and same here.

Could someone explain what happens when our motors go lean? Why is plug #8 the worst and what is the route that the shrapnel takes as it goes through the motor and blower?

 

[stkjock]

The #8 is the last in the cooling circut on mod motors IIRC

Lean will detonation, that explosion instead of burn, hits the piston tops hard, causes breaking of pistons, rods, bearings.

As to shrapnel, it will depend on what breaks.

I lost my motor to a blown oil pump, lack of oil took out the short block, wrecked the bearings, etc. the short block itself didn't fail.

 

[bull3441]

Could someone explain what happens when our motors go lean? Why is plug #8 the worst and what is the route that the shrapnel takes as it goes through the motor and blower?

Too many variables and I'm not an expert. My local shop has seen blown motors with pieces of piston end up in the intake tubes etc. Everything needs to be taken apart and checked. That's why I suggested to you to also purchase a new oil cooler. Last thing you want is to put the motor back together and a piece of debris from the cooler causes damage. I blew #7, I've read and was explained that 7&8 are the leanest on mod motors. Ford allows variances in the timing per bank. Motors have varied as much as 8 degrees of timing between the two banks. Tuners can't really cure that. You can drive yourself nuts going over this crap. Heat is the major enemy, you may not have "run lean" as you may have beat the balls out of the car and heat got you. Mine went after a lot of high runs over and over again, day after day. Motor lasted 26k miles of me beating the shit out of it. Lund and L&M looked at my prior tune from my Local tuner and said it was good. The stock motors can only handle so much pounding, they were built to last at factory specs with "some" wiggle room. They weren't built for daily beatings at high HP. I found out $18k later :lol1:

 

[rw95gt]

Too many variables and I'm not an expert. My local shop has seen blown motors with pieces of piston end up in the intake tubes etc. Everything needs to be taken apart and checked. That's why I suggested to you to also purchase a new oil cooler. Last thing you want is to put the motor back together and a piece of debris from the cooler causes damage. I blew #7, I've read and was explained that 7&8 are the leanest on mod motors. Ford allows variances in the timing per bank. Motors have varied as much as 8 degrees of timing between the two banks. Tuners can't really cure that. You can drive yourself nuts going over this crap. Heat is the major enemy, you may not have "run lean" as you may have beat the balls out of the car and heat got you. Mine went after a lot of high runs over and over again, day after day. Motor lasted 26k miles of me beating the shit out of it. Lund and L&M looked at my prior tune from my Local tuner and said it was good. The stock motors can only handle so much pounding, they were built to last at factory specs with "some" wiggle room. They weren't built for daily beatings at high HP. I found out $18k later :lol1:

18k?

 

[bull3441]

18k?

Yep and that's w/o tax. That includes labor and Lund tune. Only re-used part of OEM motor were the heads. There are a few guys here who are over the $20k mark. Don't blow your motor!!! ARP hardware, rings, bearings, gaskets, fluids, billet oil pump, billet tensioner etc add up fast. Oh you want cams? $1500, oh wait you need new springs and retainers for that. Those cams need to be degreed, that's a days labor to do that. The list goes on and on.