NSR Cam Choices - Best Option

[Streetpwr281]

No offense but I don't buy that torque for a minute. I'll also say you don't want that much anyway, will never hook.
Look at my 965rwhp dyno, that's the torque curve you want I think mine was 830-840rwtq
-J

No offense taken. That’s why I have an inquiry in to discuss the stated TQ and what attribute of their cams created the inversion. Hopefully they have other examples to substantiate true cam characteristics. I’m still running 3.31’s and in being a 100% streetcar most interested in 45mph - 150mph zone. Def not a drag racer as I hate how each trip jolts the car and creates a new creak or rattle if not broken parts. My interest is in the occasional McLaren or modded GTR that rolls up on the hwy or possibly a 1/2 mile event.


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[biminiLX]

I understand and I think you have right idea BUT long pulls are about hardest on a vehicle and if you're going this far just put some rods in it.
I would fear for your stock rods on a mile pull over 800rwhp which is where a called Gen 3 Whipple better be.
JDM winter sale--drop in rods and drop in cams 900rwhp at 7200rpm easy
-J

 

[Streetpwr281]

I understand and I think you have right idea BUT long pulls are about hardest on a vehicle and if you're going this far just put some rods in it.
I would fear for your stock rods on a mile pull over 800rwhp which is where a called Gen 3 Whipple better be.
JDM winter sale--drop in rods and drop in cams 900rwhp at 7200rpm easy
-J

Your a bad, bad man


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[biminiLX]

Devil on your shoulder?
Guilty
-J

 

[Catmonkey]

Wish I had the duration info @ .050” on our stock 2013-2014 cams to judge size relative to stock.

The numbers posted previously are correct. 197/197 @ .050. Yes, they are that mild.

 

[Streetpwr281]

The numbers posted previously are correct. 197/197 @ .050. Yes, they are that mild.

Holy Chit!!! Seriously??? No wonder I can lug my car at 800rpms. By contrast, that makes the 238/247 L&M NSR cams huge.


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[hostile500]

No offense taken. That’s why I have an inquiry in to discuss the stated TQ and what attribute of their cams created the inversion. Hopefully they have other examples to substantiate true cam characteristics. I’m still running 3.31’s and in being a 100% streetcar most interested in 45mph - 150mph zone. Def not a drag racer as I hate how each trip jolts the car and creates a new creak or rattle if not broken parts. My interest is in the occasional McLaren or modded GTR that rolls up on the hwy or possibly a 1/2 mile event.


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If you're looking to do highway races from 45-150 you definitely want to change those gears out. I also run a 4;10 gear and love everything about it on the streets. They are highway monsters that really are hard to beat with the torque these cars make.


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[biminiLX]

If you're looking to do highway races from 45-150 you definitely want to change those gears out. I also run a 4;10 gear and love everything about it on the streets. They are highway monsters that really are hard to beat with the torque these cars make.


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Agreed. I'm not sure why people feel that way about the gears but I feel like it probably depends on the MPH range you want. I'm pretty confident 40-160 there's nothing that touches a modded '13-14 with 4.10s and DRs.
I believe 5th would top out around 160mph on 4.10?

Streetpwr281--yes the stock cams are that mild that's why you don't have to huge and kill your low end and risk the rods with the high shift points of the bigger cams. Milder cams and average torque huge on street.
-J

 

[hostile500]

Agreed. I'm not sure why people feel that way about the gears but I feel like it probably depends on the MPH range you want. I'm pretty confident 40-160 there's nothing that touches a modded '13-14 with 4.10s and DRs.
I believe 5th would top out around 160mph on 4.10?
-J

The 4:10s a bit of a struggle for myself at the track (not the greatest driver). But I'm finishing 4th at the 1/4mile at 136. At 6100rpm. 5th being overdrive should be around 160 yeah. I just see bad things happening at those speeds. We run to 140 max, if they haven't gone by at that point they won't go by.


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[biminiLX]

True a 4.10 modded car rocks 40-140.
Your obviously not that bad a wheelman trapping high 130s, but trust me from all my stick experience, run bias plys on track.
-J

 

[hostile500]

With the extra added top end from NSR cams you wouldn't have any problems running on the highways or even back roads. Just changing the gears will wake that car up tremendously over the stock 3:31s. With all the suspension mods you already have you should hook up just fine.


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[Turbo98GT]

2.73s... 40-140 with 1 shift

 

[hostile500]

2.73s... 40-140 with 1 shift

Chevy called. They want there corvette gears back.


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[Streetpwr281]

Given all the info shared here and knowing my daily driver streetcar goals I’m going to look closer at this Cushman Motorsports Stg 1 camshaft:

CMS 07-14 GT500 NO SPRING UPGRADE REQUIRED cam grinds! Stage 1 Blower are the perfect upgrade for your 07-14 GT00. They have an aggressive idle and a RPM range of 1800-6000. Will work with stock springs/stock heads. Will need to be tuned after install. Perfect for stock to lightly modded GT500's.

.450"/.450" lift, 228/232 .050" duration, 115 LSA

Major duration increase over the 197/197 dur stock cams and tighter INT/EXH Duration split than others which is more comparable to stock cams configuration. Operating range most closely matches my stock rods/shortblocks safe limits. I’d bet these will pull hp strong up to 6500 - 6700rpms easily while not sacrificing as much TQ as the L&Ms.

Cam gurus....Thoughts???


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[Streetpwr281]

Double Post

 

[Catmonkey]

Given all the info shared here and knowing my daily driver streetcar goals I’m going to look closer at this Cushman Motorsports Stg 1 camshaft:

CMS 07-14 GT500 NO SPRING UPGRADE REQUIRED cam grinds! Stage 1 Blower are the perfect upgrade for your 07-14 GT00. They have an aggressive idle and a RPM range of 1800-6000. Will work with stock springs/stock heads. Will need to be tuned after install. Perfect for stock to lightly modded GT500's.

.450"/.450" lift, 228/232 .050" duration, 115 LSA

Major duration increase over the 197/197 dur stock cams and tighter INT/EXH Duration split than others which is more comparable to stock cams configuration. Operating range most closely matches my stock rods/shortblocks safe limits. I’d bet these will pull hp strong up to 6500 - 6700rpms easily while not sacrificing as much TQ as the L&Ms.

Cam gurus....Thoughts???

Fairly close to my current specs. NSR cams tend to have less aggressive ramps than cams that require springs. While I've yet to fire mine, I think it will be a good all around choice. My previous cam spec'd 222/222 and it had excellent street manners and insane torque. Probably ideal for a 5.4. While I was in doing all the timing upgrades, I went ahead and got something a bit more aggressive.

 

[Streetpwr281]

Fairly close to my current specs. NSR cams tend to have less aggressive ramps than cams that require springs. While I've yet to fire mine, I think it will be a good all around choice. My previous cam spec'd 222/222 and it had excellent street manners and insane torque. Probably ideal for a 5.4. While I was in doing all the timing upgrades, I went ahead and got something a bit more aggressive.

So you’d have a favorable opinion of the specs on the Cushman Stage 1 for my combo?


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[Catmonkey]

I think it would behave better on the street than something a little more aggressive. Granted it won't be as choppy if you're solely in it for the rough idle aspect. Unless you run around in drag radials, you'll probably blow the tires away regardless. The only redeeming value of the loss of low-end torque with a more aggressive cam, is it's not so peaky when you lay into it. The downside is it's a good bit more sluggish off idle and lower rpm ranges... basically non-aggressive street driving. You may also need to overdrive the blower to make up for the loss of boost. Spinning it harder generates more heat.

If you're like me and don't visit the drag strip much at all, or is 90% more street car than race car, I think it's a good choice. Everyone's idea of a street car can be different too. I think you'll need 3.73s at a minimum with the low 6th gear ratio.

Cams are expensive. Cost of installation just escalates the cost of admission, unless you do your own install, so it can be an expensive mistake. I think you're better off making an under cammed decision than an over cammed decision. It's still a pretty far cry from stock specs. But you have to make that choice.

 

[Streetpwr281]

I think it would behave better on the street than something a little more aggressive. Granted it won't be as choppy if you're solely in it for the rough idle aspect. Unless you run around in drag radials, you'll probably blow the tires away regardless. The only redeeming value of the loss of low-end torque with a more aggressive cam, is it's not so peaky when you lay into it. The downside is it's a good bit more sluggish off idle and lower rpm ranges... basically non-aggressive street driving. You may also need to overdrive the blower to make up for the loss of boost. Spinning it harder generates more heat.

If you're like me and don't visit the drag strip much at all, or is 90% more street car than race car, I think it's a good choice. Everyone's idea of a street car can be different too. I think you'll need 3.73s at a minimum with the low 6th gear ratio.

Cams are expensive. Cost of installation just escalates the cost of admission, unless you do your own install, so it can be an expensive mistake. I think you're better off making an under cammed decision than an over cammed decision. It's still a pretty far cry from stock specs. But you have to make that choice.

All good points and I agree. I drive daily and do run Nitto 555Rs. The cost of replacing every 12 months is just necessary IMHO. I’ll certainly lean towards conservatively camming as I’ve been there/done that with too large a cam choice w past cars.


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[Streetpwr281]

All good points and I agree. I drive daily and do run Nitto 555Rs. The cost of replacing every 12 months is just necessary IMHO. I’ll certainly lean towards conservatively camming as I’ve been there/done that with too large a cam choice w past cars.


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I spoke to L&M today about my application and use as a daily driver. They agreed the off the shelf L&M NSR @ 238 INT duration would be too aggressive and that I’d likely be unhappy w the low speed driveability in traffic. Not going to be able to lug it at 1200 - 1500rpms on the commute. They recommended a custom NSR grind in the 225 - 228 INT duration range that could achieve good low speed and still capture 75% of the available gains up to ~ 6700rpms. So that’s an option same price as their off the shelf.


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