try this.....watch the video
[video=youtube;ZNxXM75zJOw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNxXM75zJOw[/video]
Kennebell throttle Body issues
- Thread starter 1fast4d
- Start date
try this.....watch the video
[video=youtube;ZNxXM75zJOw]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNxXM75zJOw[/video]
The brass gears are part of the problem...that's why ford uses plastic...L&M uses delrin...and Whipple uses plastic idler gear and brass shaft gear...no binding.
I guess the only solution would be to build the throttle body correct or tell the pcm there isnt a problem with it... i guess the second option would be a bad one due to the liabbility in altering fail safes in the pcm...
:rolling:
Thanks for the vid! I did that and also did another remote tuning session with Lund. Everything looked good on the data logs, but my IAT's are through the roof! Air coming into the T/B was 156 degrees with IAT2's @ 200!! Intercooler pump seems to be working and I have all the supporting mods. It was 107 deg ambient that day and we had made three back to back pulls on the street, so maybe that had something to do with it. Car doesn't do it as often, but it still goes into failsafe! :mj: The throttle body is literally so hot you cant touch it, so Im thinking of going with a different hood for better airflow and heat extraction and a larger volume intercooler pump. Ugh! Car makes 770 rwhp on 93 and Torco. With boost peaking at 24 psi didn't help things in the 107 degree heat neither.:nonono:
Last edited:
Yup....ding ding ding. Not to mention. The new revised tb's from kb don't spring back at the bottom.
Last edited:
I have the 3.2LC kit with 168mm tb and and its horrible taking off from a light. Drivability is really bad. If anyone knows someone selling a 75mm or 168mm kb tb with the old spring loaded stop , please let me know.
Couple quick questions:
Who is tuning your car?
Im assuming you have a new V9 168?
Whats your tps voltage set at with KOEO?
Whats on it for an intake ?
Who is tuning your car?
Im assuming you have a new V9 168?
Whats your tps voltage set at with KOEO?
Whats on it for an intake ?
I can't pm you but I have a V7 ported dual 75 for sale
Last edited:
Anyone ever come up with a definitive solution for the KB 168 sticking closed when hot?
I was doing initial idle and cruise logs on mine today and seem to have the same issue. From looking at the log it looks like limp mode is triggered when the delta between throttle desired and throttle actual goes over +/-6. Code 2112 is being thrown and all is well after shutting down and restarting.
My log indicates the TB is getting stuck closed, throttle actual is much lower than desired when the CEL pops. Doesn’t seem to happen until the car gets warm and then it’s nonstop. Popped 3 more times on the 1 mile drive back to the house.
I was doing initial idle and cruise logs on mine today and seem to have the same issue. From looking at the log it looks like limp mode is triggered when the delta between throttle desired and throttle actual goes over +/-6. Code 2112 is being thrown and all is well after shutting down and restarting.
My log indicates the TB is getting stuck closed, throttle actual is much lower than desired when the CEL pops. Doesn’t seem to happen until the car gets warm and then it’s nonstop. Popped 3 more times on the 1 mile drive back to the house.
First thing you might want to try and make sure it's not bolted on too tight. I also hear someone mentioning putting a little dab of grease at the point of contract and the rubbing area eventually wore the needed clearance between the bore and the blade.
Is it a new TB or used? When did you buy it?
We have 2 KB168 cars in the garage without an issue.
-J
I bought it from @Robert M on the forum here. I got the impression that he had been holding on to it for quite some time. Not sure if he bought it used or new, but it looked brand new, not a scratch or smudge on it.
It’s fine until it gets hot and then it’s constantly stuck closed. Either that or the PCM thinks it’s stuck closed. It seems that I’m definitely not the first guy to have this issue.
It’s definitely not bolted on too tight. I’ll put a dab of grease in there and see if that helps.
Have you made any ground on this? I have the exact same issue with my 168 after bringing the car out of winter storage. So far I have replaced the electronics and that didnt fix it.
I saw on the GT500 Facebook forum another guy with this same issue.... some replies indicated that putting some antiseize on the sides of the shaft of the throttle blade will solve the issue. I have not tried this yet as my weather has been junk for the last week.. but it makes sense. My car ran fine all last summer then right out of winter storage; this happens. Perhaps the 168 has stiffened up over winter storage period and needs some lube.
Also worth noting: only throwing the P2112 code. No other codes.
No luck. I tried a little grease around the circumference of the blade as well as on the shaft. Are you throwing the code from the get go, or only once the car warms up? I'm moving on to a VMP 160. They're on backorder at the moment, hoping it ships soon as I've been down for about 3 weeks now and we're having some good racing weather on the weekends....very frustrating.
Only once the car warms up. Seems to only happen when the car is cruising at a low rpm then if I let off the gas it gets stuck closed.
When I changed the electronics it seemed like it was happening less. I’m not sure if that’s because when I had the TB apart I manually opened and closed it a few times.... perhaps that loosened it up? Or maybe just luck.
Not knocking VMP . I had and still have VMP parts on my own '13 & my prior '08 GT500. Swapping TB's is always an option. But my experience with the KB168 was made extremely simple with a Lund tune. I had major off idle & tip in issues with the CJ Mono that were not resolved. Once I swapped to the KB 168 I found Lund adjusting my TB voltage for the KB 168 solved ALL the problems for similar to stock type driveability, TB response, idle..off idle.
So far one winter storage had no effect.
$250 invested for a Lund tune or just a Tune Evaluation which might disclose a TB voltage problem.
So far one winter storage had no effect.
$250 invested for a Lund tune or just a Tune Evaluation which might disclose a TB voltage problem.
Mine is tuned by Lund. This issue is not related to the common diveability problems that people have with 168s. It is a totally separate issue.
I gave KB a call and eventually got on the line with one of their engineers. He had me do a few things and send some pics. In his estimation the TB seemed fine, but he said I could send it in and have it refreshed/repaired for $200. So that's an option for you if greasing it doesn't work.
Users who are viewing this thread
