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Could swap the front O2 sensors and see if it changes or stays the same. I'd check for soot marks on your long tube to mid pipe connections and for leaks and around the exhaust manifold flange for a leak. check for vac leaks, might have to get your hands on a smoke machine..

Stud, right before where the nut puts pressure on the exhaust manifold flange.

smoke machine that gets hooked up to vacuum hose on the intake. smoke is used to expose vacuum leaks. i had one i bought from harbor freight. worked pretty good. so if you clear all the codes and fire the car up and the check engine light comes on what's the first one?

look into the o2's and than check for vac leaks like mentioned above. you might have to get a smoke machine on it.

When I did my MAC lontubes years ago on mine I got rid of the studs and nuts and used bolts with the best loctite for the application i could find. I torqued to the factory specs, got the engine up to operating temp and re torqued to factory specs. I did it once more like 2-3 weeks later to...

I sure do like the coyote seats more than the SN95 ones after sitting in my former gf's 2011 5.0. keeping this swap in mind cause my tan 97 ones are beat.

not entirely sure. I'd ask Bama that question. I'd be prepared to get the right size rear tires. if your brakes are pulsating like you say they are why not just pull the ABS fuse till you get situated.

seems like the height difference between the front and rear are to much of a difference for the abs and traction control to work properly. Did the tuner put the front tire measurements in the tune?

maf cleaning wouldn't hurt it but a dead non reading o2 is a giveaway to a problem. check with your app to see the voltages and there movements. i use a blue tooth blue driver by Lemur.

I'd check the wiring for the driver side o2 sensors to see if one is damaged/not plugged in from the transmission swap myself. check the o2 sensors with a obd2 reader that shows voltages for all of the o2's. See if any of them are lazy or dead. Is the car in closed loop? check engine light on?

Looking for information on better than stock stall torque converter with my '97 GT 4.6 SOHC 4R70W. What's a decent stall for a PI motor with full boltons and 100 shot with the gadgets? Are there any other converters that are better than what I have that are in other fords that can be swapped...

I think it looks good. So the C springs are the same or close to the eibach sport springs? I got a friend that is looking to get rid of the stock stance with his GT. He's running 18" staggered salleens. He's been looking for a daily driver style and feel kinda springs that don't require off set...

driving the great roads of Pennsylvania with long tubes and catted h-pipe I wouldn't want anymore of a drop on a daily driver than what you have now Revv.

if the springs are brand new and not used ones i'd wait a month, by than the front and rear would settle.

from what I've read it's 71-106 inch lbs. multiple pages are using 90 inch lbs.

is there a point where a -6 return line is just to small? my goal is to put on a 255lph or a 340lph fuel pump, a FPR, 24lb injectors.

Instead use a length of 3/8" The evaporator core housing has a sump that slopes forward and drains through a nipple passing through the firewall. The drain opening is as others have said kind of a bitchy thing to get at. I do not recommend blowing air into the drain as all that does is blow...

more fuel being returned back to tank.

how bad would be the aeration of fuel?

that's great

Gonna be dropping the tank soon to clean it in my 97 GT 4.6 w/ return fuel system. I want to put a 255lph fuel pump kit in it. Do I have to install a fuel pressure regulator like a Kirban or will the stock fuel pressure regulator work fine? Pic of my Stang

Good idea

Lincoln Mark VIII 4.6 4v, Mercury Maruader 4.6 4v, 03-04 automatic tranny Mach 1 4V had 8 bolt cast cranks. wouldn't doubt there's others

it seems that way. wonder is i should swap to a 8rib coversion instead of the 6 rib