03 Cobra 550-600rwhp?

[03VenomBite]

Ok guys I need a little help! I'm thinking about putting 2.3 Whipple on my 03 Cobra. I have seen prices on them and have read alot of different things needed to run the whipple to the limits. Now I would like 550 for street-everyday driving and 600rwhp for the strip every now and then. This is my summer car driven on most days except for very rainy days. I would go to the strip maybe 3 times a year. I was wondering what supporting mods would be need as far as the fuel system goes. No nos running going on here! I would run track fuel at the track and 93 on the streets. Any input would be great.

Thanks

 

[03VenomBite]

I may have asked the question to soon. I looked for more on the whipple and KB web sites. They both said that they can take the stock fuel systems to 650rwhp! Has anyone done this is it a safe tune or are things at there limits?

 

[Posi]

You need to

1. Upgrade Mass Air Meter with either a Mafia or a SCT dedicated Meter

2. Upgrade Fuel Pumps with either a KB Bap or Twin GT Pumps both with wiring upgrade

3. Single Modified FPDM

4. 60+lb injectors

5. Accufab SBTB

6. Probably a clutch also lol.

 

[03Snake04]

whipple with a 3" upper for a 4lb lower
60# injectors
sct2400 or larger sct meter or a mafia for your stock maf meter
kb bap will push your stock pumps to 600rwhp without the need for larger ones(if you wanna go the cheap route)
sbtb
cooler plugs
handheld tuner
tune

or in shorter words... see sig for a basic setup:beer:

 

[03VenomBite]

Hey thanks guys! Does anyone sell a kit that would cover all that?

 

[03VenomBite]

or in shorter words... see sig for a basic setup:beer:

Any 1/4 mile times with your set up?

 

[Avispa]

I installed a Whipple 2.3 on an essentially stock car a year and a half ago. Running stock lower pulley and 3.5 upper. Also running Accufab SBTB, SCT 2400 MAF and JDM air filter (not really a CAI kit) and 60# injectors. JDM did the tune for 93 octane. It ran 546 to the tires on a Mustang dyno, which sounds pretty much like what you want. Also running stock catted H-pipe and quiet flowmasters cat-back. Should make 590 to the tires with a 3.0 pulley. This car is my DD and it's extremely well mannered in traffic, etc.

The only other thing I'd like to do is a McLeod dual disk clutch. The pedal pressure makes my left leg sore after a while when stuck in traffic.

 

[03VenomBite]

Thanks Avispa. Thats what im looking for easy driving and wild with pulley change!

 

[03Snake04]

Any 1/4 mile times with your set up?

i have a buddy with my setup except for a sra(which i will be going to, i have no track times with the irs) and he runs 10.60s @ 130-131 with the same power mine makes

 

[Silver03Termi]

you're building my car. check my sig. 11.47@122 on a hot day. i paid 1900 for rebuilt blower. 500 for BAP, 60's, and sct3000. 150 for pulley. 400 for hand held. 700 for bushings. 150 for flsfc's. 200 for gaskets, bolts, and oil. 40 for belt. 15 for plugs. 175 for throttle body. 50 for idler. 1200 for input shaft, clutch, and flywheel. 200 for shifter and boot. most parts were bought on here.

 

[mdrc347]

Thanks Avispa. Thats what im looking for easy driving and wild with pulley change!

Don't do it with a pulley change. Just run the most aggressive pulley setup that is safe for racing fuel at all times, and tune the car on 104 octane (or your fuel of choice). Then have the tuner pull timing for pump gas. You can store multiple tunes in the handheld. Then simply load the race gas tune at the track and the pump gas tune on the street. Simple. Running alot of boost on pump gas isn't an issue if you drop the timing to compensate. To my knowledge, 104 is the best you can get in unleaded. Leaded fuel will screw with your oxygen sensors.

 

[Posi]

I ran 22lbs on the street with straight 93 octane for a while. Just gotta be smart on when you crack on the car is all IMO. I believe it had 15*'s of timing also.

 

[Avispa]

Don't do it with a pulley change. Just run the most aggressive pulley setup that is safe for racing fuel at all times, and tune the car on 104 octane (or your fuel of choice). Then have the tuner pull timing for pump gas. You can store multiple tunes in the handheld. Then simply load the race gas tune at the track and the pump gas tune on the street. Simple. Running alot of boost on pump gas isn't an issue if you drop the timing to compensate. To my knowledge, 104 is the best you can get in unleaded. Leaded fuel will screw with your oxygen sensors.

There's some truth in that. I can barely keep 315-35-17s Nitto 555Rs on the back from spinning in 1st gear at 1/4 throttle with the 3.5 pulley. Same thing will happen in 2d if you're not completely wound out in 1st before shifting. Every Saturday morning when I get up, I think about putting on the 3.0 pulley, and just think, "forget it, the car's enough of a beast as it is." The car was tuned to handle the 3.0 pulley on 93 octane, but what's the point with all that wheel spin anyway.

Leaded fuel won't just screw with your OXSs, it will poison your cats so they don't work any more.

 

[03VenomBite]

Thanks guys the multi-tune sounds even better! I'm still getting used to these mod motors and all the different things you can do electronically! I'm used to the simple days of the bolt-on and tweak and go!!!

 

[Jomo1994z71]

I agree with Posi above. great info.
Look at my sig for my info.
560HP is plenty for the street.
I run the 40amp BAP and the lethal wire upgrade for that, plus 60s