1000hp motor

[Biff-Mach1]

Hi guys, so I lost compression in 2 cylinders. Going to rebuild the motor.
Car makes 700hp
Need to handle about 1000hp
It has the following parts
4.6 teskid
Stock crank
Ross pistons, 2 are damaged
Manely rods
Ported heads
Titainum Works valves
Stage 2 comp cams
E85
3.4 whipple

Head is going to need to be repaired due to the spark plug threads on cylinder 6 stripped out and pieces fell onto the piston smashing it into the piston.

I think all I'm going to need is the bottom end built and repair the head.

I was thinking of going
5.0 the teskid?
Stroke or no stroke? Heard about timing issues
Diamond pistons?
Oliver or Carrillo rods?
Coatings on the pistons?

Please list what you have in your 1000hp motor, want to do this for the last time, even tho I know its not always %100

Thanks in advance

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[Biff-Mach1]

Bump

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[Biff-Mach1]

No one?

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[stradt03]

I'm in the process of building a 1000+ HP engine

Boss50 Modular Iron block (debured)
Forged 8-bolt crank
Diamond custom milled and coated pistons
Oliver Billet I-beam rods
ARP2000 Rod bolts
Ported heads
Comp springs and retainers
All new timing components (including passenger side secondary tensioner fix)
Billet Oil Pump gears
ARP2000 head studs
ARP Side Bolts
MMR 7-qt Pan

 

[04whitesvtlight]

If you don't have the upgraded dowl pin for the timming guide it would be a good time to get that done. Oliver I beams and diamond pistons are a good choice that's what I run. I can't really comment on the piston coating but I have read that it wears right off in a short time . And just use arp everywhere and you should be in good shape.

 

[SlowSVT]

Achieving 1000 hp on a PD blown engine will be very hard on the internals, turbo would be a better choice. At that power level expect lots of down time and have your credit card "ready"

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

Stock stroke crank (maybe double key it)
10:1 flat top pistons
Manley Billet I beams
Dowel pin upgrade from AED/Accufab/Cobra Engineering
Accufab tensioner upgrade with upgraded chains
Debur Teksid
Accufab Cam bolt kit
ARP2000 head studs, main studs, sidebolts, rod bolts(come with the rods already)

That reciepe will make 1000rwhp all day long on less boost and less stress since you run E85

 

[Biff-Mach1]

Thanks for the responses. Gives me some ideas on what to go with. Y'all really like the diamond pistons? I thought they had thin piston skirts.

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[98 Saleen Cobra]

They do, and I don't like their valve reliefs.. They have super sharp edges that attract detonation lol. I went with a custom set of JE pistons.

 

[stradt03]

They do, and I don't like their valve reliefs.. They have super sharp edges that attract detonation lol. I went with a custom set of JE pistons.

No sharp edges here...
http://www.horsepowerjunkies.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148193

 

[MalcolmV8]

Thanks for the responses. Gives me some ideas on what to go with. Y'all really like the diamond pistons? I thought they had thin piston skirts.

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Regardless if you go with Diamond or JE etc. they all have to thin a side skirt for 1000 hp when ordering off the shelf. You can custom order pistons. Diamond's off the shelf flat top has .050" exhaust reliefs and .151" intake reliefs. I custom ordered mine with no exhaust reliefs and .050" intake reliefs, thicker side skirts and I had the upper ring moved down .050 to increase the strength of the ring land and pull the top ring down from the flame front some. I also had the distance between the first and 2nd ring increased. This puts the oil control rings overlapping the wrist pin so they have a custom setup to make that work.
Speaking of wrist pins you'll want to upgrade those too. I went with the h13 steel which is supposed to be incredibly strong. I spoke to a variety of high HP engine builders and most agreed that the 1.80 wall thickness would work but suggest going with the 2.20 for insurance even though it's 10 grams heavier. Only one builder suggested I go with the 2.50 which seemed overkill so I went with the 2.20.
Use a steel upper ring, not chrome moly at those hp levels.

I saw someone else above suggest ARP everywhere and pointed out the rod bolts already are ARP. True but they're regular ARPs not the 2000s which you'd probably want to upgrade to if you're shooting that high.

Also on the teksid block you'll want to upgrade the dowel pins for the timing chain guides. These have been known to snap. They're a small M6 thread where as the stock Romeo block in our cars uses a thicker 8 mm pressed in pin. Cobra Engineering has a DIY kit you can purchase (it's what I did) and drilled and tapped the teksid block and upgraded to the custom made M8 dowels also supplied by Cobra Engineering.

Double keying the crank is a controversial topic. If you ask someone in the industry such as Innovators West they'll tell you the key is nothing more than for alignment and it's the press fit that holds the pulley on the crank. So by putting in a second key you're actually reducing the surface area of the clamping force and actually have a weaker setup. I did not know this in 09 when I rebuilt my first motor and double key'd my crank.

Now rebuilding my second motor I've discovered I need to re-do the factory key and make it beefier because instead of using the factory timing gear which is one solid unit I'm going with two individual aftermarket timing gears so I can degree in the exhaust cams. This means each timing gear only grabs the end of the key and not the center which is bad. See pics below.
So if anything I'd suggest you re-key the factory key and make it dig in the crank all the way. It'll be stronger and allow you to run aftermarket timing gears without risking snapping a key and you'll still have a full snout on the crank to hold on the pulley.

 

[04cobrawhine]

I'd also recommend the Oliver billet I-beams. Really nice rod.

 

[mr. b_98GT]

I just recently had a shortblock built, and wound up building a block capable of 1000+hp. It has a stock Eaton on it for now, with a 2.8 pulley. The plan is to eventually throw on some ported 9 thread heads, a 3.4 whipple, and maybe some aftermarket cams.

I went with the following:
03 Cobra block, bored .20 over
Stock Cobra 8-bolt crank
ARP mainstuds
Stock sidebolts (for now, asked shop for ARP, they forgot to put them in)
Billet Oliver Rods w/ ARP 2000 bolts
JE Pistons 9:1 compression
FRPP oil pump w/ Billet TSS gears
Stock headstuds (correction head bolts, for now)
Stock 03 Heads, cleaned up and valve job only

I picked up a low mileage bare 03 Cobra block and forged 8 bolt crank (along with some sweet wrinkle black valve covers and a few other items) from a fellow member, Gabe1530, a few months ago. Thanks again Gabe! I was negotiating with someone to pick up a Teksid block and stroker crank, but after researching and thinking it over, I wanted to go with a stock stroke for longevity reasons. I wasn't planning on going with billet Oliver rods, but the shop recommended them once I started talking about future plans with the car, and I was already spending alot of money on this motor as it is. My goal, just like you, was to build this shortblock just once, and hopefully get to enjoy it for years and years to come. I'm still breaking the motor in as we speak, I just got it out of the shop last month, and in a year or two, if funds allow, I'll be swapping out the heads for ported 9 thread versions, adding ARP 2000 headstuds, sidebolts, cambolts, beefier chains, and a 3.4 whipple on top. Between now and then, I"ll be preparing the rest of the car for more power by ftbr'ing the IRS, adding a return style fuel system, and beefing up the t56. Well, that's "the plan" for right now; might change a little here and there as I move forward. My immediate goals are to get different springs to raise the car up (sits too low for me), fix a few cosmetic things like broken 3rd brake light and cracked cowl vent cover, and a few other small things. It will be a few years before I can join the 900 or 1000 hp club, but hopefully one day, I will.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Stock headstuds (for now)

Stock motor uses head bolts not head studs. So if you have head studs its aftermarket.

 

[SlowSVT]

Note the undercut fillet as well :nonono:

that plus a 3.4 spun to deliver 1000 hp engine can get you a whole lotta this :cryying:

 

[MalcolmV8]

Note the undercut fillet as well :nonono:

that plus a 3.4 spun to deliver 1000 hp engine can get you a whole lotta this :cryying:

That would make me cry too. Pics like that are why I keep my lower cage pulley. Knock on wood my 2.9 hasn't done it yet

 

[mr. b_98GT]

Stock motor uses head bolts not head studs. So if you have head studs its aftermarket.

Doubt I have studs then. Guess I have head bolts. Thanks for the correction. The shop recommended the ARP head studs, but I knew I was going to be replacing the heads down the road, so I didn't want to spend the money on the head studs just yet.

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

No sharp edges here...
http://www.horsepowerjunkies.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148193

Thank god they changed the design!! Here are mine.. All 8 of them had the point on the valve relief rounded off from it heating up

 

[MalcolmV8]

Doubt I have studs then. Guess I have head bolts. Thanks for the correction. The shop recommended the ARP head studs, but I knew I was going to be replacing the heads down the road, so I didn't want to spend the money on the head studs just yet.

Head studs are reusable unlike the factory bolts which are one time use. Would have been cheaper to have just gone with the head studs now.

 

[Wiseguy]

If custom crank is out of the budget, at lease re- drill or buy a crank that requires a GT-500 bolt. Shot peen or nitriding helps also. 1000 rwhp engine foundation starts at the crank with a PD for anything that will be done once and not seasonally. I would use a one piece gear also.