15x10 rear for dual duty? NOT worth it.

ebrow21

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I try and research before I purchase/install anything, but this is ridiculous. Nothing is compatible between manufacturers, and not 1 manufacturer makes everything I want/need in one place.

I drag race my car, so I buy lca/reloc brackets to help. Then I find out higher hp cars (especially with reloc brackets) have issues with axle tubes. Well, BMR's lca relocation isn't compatible with one of the only axle braces on the market (CHE). So, not much choice but to buy CHE reloc brackets and axle brace.

I look around on a few forums, and find out you need sway bar relocation brackets for a 15 x 10. Yeah, but you also have to grind half the lca relocation brackets away if you have CHE's parts. BMR? Yeah, they make the direct fit item, but then you cant use it with the brace. So, no go on grinding.

Then I move to replacing the rear swaybar, as a roll bar setup is a bit extreme for the amount I drive on the street. Whiteline? Looks great! Yet again, everything I've seen shows you can't use it with CHE's axle brace.

If you like to be proactive about your vehicle's modifications, I suggest you run a 15 x 8 and keep the stock swaybar mount. Or, just throw the rear swaybar in the garbage and run a 15 x 10.


OR am I missing something here?
 

ebrow21

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So why not sell the CHE stuff and buy BMR. Then get the wheels you want.

Its not the wheels as much as tire size.

I guess because it isn't compatible with that axle brace

Bingo. I'm not breaking my rear end, and I don't trust that they can be welded properly around here.

I run all BMR stuff, problem solved. The CHE axle brace isnt very compatible with much.

Then I can only assume you have welded axles, or different goals. I went low 1.5's on a small shot of nitrous with everything stock. Next time the car goes to the track its going to have a whipple (not at stock boost) and a Circle D. I would like to see pretty consistent high 1.4's - low 1.5's without issues.
 

pohnjarker

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just take off the rear sway bar...you dont need it at the track so unless you autocross your car, put it on a shelf in the garage. it goes on and off quick enough.
 

Sof Top

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just take off the rear sway bar...you dont need it at the track so unless you autocross your car, put it on a shelf in the garage. it goes on and off quick enough.

The rear sway bar is IMO needed at the track. Its the front sway abr thats not needed. At least I tried launching from a dig with the rear sway bar disconnected and almost put my car into a corn field.
 

pohnjarker

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The rear sway bar is IMO needed at the track. Its the front sway abr thats not needed. At least I tried launching from a dig with the rear sway bar disconnected and almost put my car into a corn field.

ahh, then i retract my previous statement

i have some weld rt-s 15x10 sitting at home so hoping it wont be an issue, i wont be using the CHE brace so everything should bolt right up....thanks for the info about the relocation brackets
 

Dtony

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I am not sure why you are having so much trouble. I run BMR LCA's and relocation brackets with a CHE axle brace. Also use a sway bar relocation bracket with Race Star 15 by 10's. No issues with compatability with any of these parts.

FWIW, I never checked to see what was capatable with what, I just put the parts on. I installed the CHE brace when I added the SC. I had been running the other components for quite some time. It was a tight fit, but no issues at all.
 
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Yagermeister

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Have BMR relocation brackets with the JPC Racing sway bar relocation brackets along with Shelby Performance rear swaybar all with 15x10s. Yes a little bit of clearancing is needed but nothing that a decent welder/grinder can't handle. Not sure of the need for the axle brace...just get the axle tubes welded and you'll be all set.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 

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