2001 Cobra: Newbie Engine Build Thread

[6mtsedan]

Well here it goes and a little bit of a story...
I am absolutely clueless on motors but i have been involved in automotive stuff for the last 15 years. I love mechanics but I I break more things then fix. Well, me and my dad picked up a 2001 Cobra Convertible with about 65000 miles on it. We took it to a performance shop whom completely dismantled it and gave a rather large repair back for a rebuild. We decided we would take the parts back and attempt a rebuild ourselves with advice from this forum and youtube.
This epic thread will be dedicated to this build. The only information i have is that the crank was twisted and two something rather on one channel or area and one something all the others (will update with pics of the service card).

Bareblock:

 

[6mtsedan]

 

[6mtsedan]

Whats first? I bought the 4.6 rebuild guide by george reid.
I've discovered that the motor was rebuilt in 2012. I measured the cylinder diameter (bore) and it measured out to approximately 90.65-90.70mm.

 

[01yellercobra]

What are you using to measure? There should be a list if things to check. Like roundness and taper of the cylinders. You need to make sure the deck is flat. I use a metal flat bar and feeler gauge usually.

Does the guide have the specs in it? If it doesn't you'll have to track down a shop manual so you know what clearances and measurements you need.

 

[6mtsedan]

What are you using to measure? There should be a list if things to check. Like roundness and taper of the cylinders. You need to make sure the deck is flat. I use a metal flat bar and feeler gauge usually.

Does the guide have the specs in it? If it doesn't you'll have to track down a shop manual so you know what clearances and measurements you need.

I am a complete newbie! This will be a miracle if I can build this motor. What I've understood to this point is all research based. I understand I will have to buy tools and parts and that a ok as im having fun doing this! This is all a learning experience for me

I've already learned from your post that I need to check the taper of the cylinders. I didn't realize that before.

I was going to buy a dial bore gauge (brand? Size?), Feeler gauges (brand, size?), and a precision straight edge (brand, size?). Is there anything else that needs to be checked? If the block doesn't need to be sent to a machine shop then thats cost savings that can be used elsewhere. Any other tools at this time that I need?

 

[01yellercobra]

I'd look on Summit for the dial bore gauge. Stuff like the feeler gauges can be picked up at your parts store. As for the straight edge you just need a flat bar. It doesn't have to be precision machined. The last one I had was about a foot long. You'll also need to check the main bore clearances.

Where I'd spend the money on tools is on torque wrenches. You'll need a good ft-lb and in-lb torque wrench.

 

[6mtsedan]

I'd look on Summit for the dial bore gauge. Stuff like the feeler gauges can be picked up at your parts store. As for the straight edge you just need a flat bar. It doesn't have to be precision machined. The last one I had was about a foot long. You'll also need to check the main bore clearances.

Where I'd spend the money on tools is on torque wrenches. You'll need a good ft-lb and in-lb torque wrench.

When i got the car from the shop, the window was down. Considering there is no motor in there or battery, how would i go about rolling up the window? If i can roll up the window i can get the shell out of my garage and put the engine in there instead of the laundry room as ive only got a 1 car garage

 

[01yellercobra]

Hook the battery up. Just make sure there aren't any exposed wires hanging or touching the frame.

 

[6mtsedan]

[video=youtube;8yb416kGbDM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yb416kGbDM[/video]

original condition of the motor

 

[CJK440]

Bring the block to a reputable machine shop. Have them check it out for bore wear. If in acceptable specs, have them give it a hone for new rings and clean it.

 

[6mtsedan]

Bring the block to a reputable machine shop. Have them check it out for bore wear. If in acceptable specs, have them give it a hone for new rings and clean it.

This weeks update and questions...
Took it to the machine shop to have the block, crank (although its 20 under on one bearing and 10 on the rest), connecting rods, pistons, and heads inspected. I will have the shop also clean and inspect the block for cracks and wear and hone or bore as necessary.

Now the for help for this stage...
1. Whats the maximum bore that I should be allowing before the block is questionable in terms of reliability.
2. What brand pistons, connecting rods, and bearings should i be looking at?
3. How can I prevent a spun bearing from happening in the future? What primarily causes this issue in these motors? I don't plan on beating on the car but if i get frisky i don't want to worry about blowing the motor!

Thanks for all the help guys!(and girls)

 

[01yellercobra]

1- .020" is the standard overbore for these. But some have taken them out to .030". I think as long as you're not hitting high boost you'd be ok with .030"

2- Manley, Diamond, and JE are the ones that come to mind. I think Manley has some decent prices. Modmax seems to be a popular place to buy rods and pistons from. I have Federal Mogul and Clevite bearings in my engine. King is another that has a good rep. You don't need anything special. A good factory style replacement will be enough.

3- Keep an eye on the oil level. That's why everyone says to run 7 quarts.

 

[6mtsedan]

1- .020" is the standard overbore for these. But some have taken them out to .030". I think as long as you're not hitting high boost you'd be ok with .030"

2- Manley, Diamond, and JE are the ones that come to mind. I think Manley has some decent prices. Modmax seems to be a popular place to buy rods and pistons from. I have Federal Mogul and Clevite bearings in my engine. King is another that has a good rep. You don't need anything special. A good factory style replacement will be enough.

3- Keep an eye on the oil level. That's why everyone says to run 7 quarts.

Well it seems that the last rebuild wasn't quality or it could have been that the guy beat on the thing and took it to canadian tire (every canadian knows never to take their car to canadian tire as they will somehow damage more than they were meant to fix).

What about the MMR 7qt oil pan and high flow oil pump? Is it a waste of money? Just want to do whatever I can with the engine torn apart to prevent this from happening (besides using quality parts and hoping the machining is done well)

 

[01yellercobra]

Wait and see what your machine shop says. You might get lucky and just need a hone.

The stock pan and pump will work fine. Someone on here once did a test and found out the stock pan can hold 9 quarts with no clearance problems.

 

[Nightmare90gt]

I just went through this with my Mach engine trust me when I say get a machine shop to assemble the short block it's well worth the money. I paid 1k for bore, hone, heads decked, cam tower honed, line bore checked with studs and short block assembled in 4 days it runs great and was werth every penny for the peace of mind knowing it was done right. Just make sure you choose a machine that is great with these engines.

 

[01yellercobra]

He says he has the time and wants to learn. We're here to help when he needs it. The worse that'll happen is he'll get everything together and decide it's too much.

 

[6mtsedan]

I have alot of time right now and its keeping my brain working. Long story short, a workplace assault left me with some brain damage and ptsd so this is a way to help with my thinking

No updates today. Will find out on monday how bad this motor is and if its worth it to fix. The machine shop seems fairly competent as thats all they do (build motors). Not sure about installing it in the car. I don't have access to a jack. At that time ill have to figure out how to go about installing the tranny and engine.

 

[SlowSVT]

As long as he has a straight block and crank to work with he should be fine assembling the engine as long as he asks question before each task.

Did you say this engine spun a bearing? I take it the shop is checking the line bore as well.

An oil pump with billet steel gears will be a little more reliable than the factory powdered metal gears. Lethal Performance and Mod Max is a good place for engine components.

Here is a list of parts you should consider for the short block

Pistons: Manley are pretty good inexpensive pistons, CP and Diamond are very good can be made to order but are expensive

Rods: Manley H-beam are very good and I have never seen one break. Here is a Terminator rod assy next to an Oliver rod and CP piston.

Bearings: King, Federal Mogal or Clevite steel backed bearings (no aluminum)

ARP 2000 main and head studs

Canton makes a nice baffled road race pan that adds a quart and a full length windage tray. The 5.8 windage tray which is also the pan gasket but you may have to modify it to work with your oil pick-up.

Building an engine is not as complicated as most people think. I would focus on the short block first before tackling the heads and the valve train which is a little more complicated. Are you planning to keep the car NA or are you going supercharged? That will determine what piston and ring package you will want.

 

[6mtsedan]

Wow! Thanks for quite the informative response!

The car will never be forced inducted. If anything we may do some work on the heads but need a running car first, or with the advice of forum users, to do worthwhile upgrades while the motor is dismantled.
I have to admit, this is one of the better communities ive been to (Honda/Mazda/VW).

Thanks for all the help. Hoping to provide some actual numbers soon on how bad the block is and where to go from here in terms of chosing pistons/rings/rods/etc.

To clarify, i am going to get the shop to check the block flatness, bores and hone as neccessary, line bore which ensures the crank lies straight, and clean and check the block for cracks....anything else i am missing?

 

[01yellercobra]

Will the Trinity pan fit our chassis? It's a popular upgrade in the S197 community. I've been curious if it'll work for us.