2012 Coyote - Spun Rod Bearing

NoVAGT5.0

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I've lurked in the forums here for a few years now as a non-member, but decided to join today because I wanted to share a recent experience with the community. Not sure if it's particularly helpful or useful, but I thought at the very least it would add some additional data concerning failure points in these motors and the conditions under which they occur.

I have a 2012 GT Premium in Kona Blue. The car was purchased used about two years ago from the Ford dealer. At the time of purchase, the vehicle had 47,700 miles on it, which is fairly high for a two year old car, but it was in fantastic shape inside and out, and I fell in love with it on the first test drive.

Over the years, I've owned three generations of these cars, including an old fox body 5.0, a 2001 4.6, and now the 2012. In general I've always found them to be tough cars, standing up to a fair amount of abuse, and reliably getting me from point A to point B without a hitch. I've never actually raced any of them, saving the occasional road race, but they've all been subjected to what I'd call spirited driving.

A couple weeks ago that changed, when I started the car in my driveway and it developed a ticking sound that I knew was not good. I've always done all the maintenance on my own vehicles, and have been religious about making sure that the oil, oil filter, plugs, and other consumables are regularly serviced and replaced.

Initially, I thought the problem was somewhere in the cylinder heads, or something related to timing chain tensioners. Generally speaking, I'm not afraid to dive into something, but I will admit that taking apart the whole front end of the vehicle, and top for that matter, is a bit more than I wanted to take on here at home. I have most of the tools, but not all, and it would just take me a very long time - time that I don't really have.

This vehicle was 90% stock. The only thing ever done to it was an email tune from one of the popular tuners around, not even a cold air intake.

So, I decided to man up and take the car to the Ford dealer to have them take a look. It was still under warranty, and I figured that the repair would be costly, but I certainly did not expect to hear that the motor was torpedoed.

Unfortunately, I've spun a bearing, and needed an engine replacement. This happened at ~70k miles, so I've put approximately 23k on the vehicle in the last two years. The service representative that I worked with was very helpful, but he was also very honest. This kind of situation is involved and would require essentially a new engine, and approval for warranty coverage can apparently require quite some time: tear down of the engine to determine cause, pulling the PCM, etc.

I know some would probably suggest pursuing the warranty, but I feared being out of a vehicle for months while going back and forth with Ford corporate, and while the service folks were very helpful, I just wasn't sure that coming out of pocket to the tune of $10k made sense, fiscally or otherwise.

Ultimately, I made the decision to back out of the warranty claim, and instead contacted the folks over at JPC racing in Millersville, MD.

Everyone's financial situation is different, and I really didn't have the cash to build the motor the way I would've really liked to, but I have to tell you my experience with this shop has been nothing short of outstanding so far. They've been extremely helpful, accomodating, and jumped right on the job as soon as my initial payment was made.

It's clear that they know these cars inside and out. They talked me out of things that I didn't need, and into things that made sense while the motor was out of the car.

In the end, I'll have a nearly new engine, at least the bottom end, and I'll walk away with a new clutch (McLeod RST), new timing chain/tensioners, billet oil pump gears, and a set of Kooks long tube headers, all for no additional labor cost.

The cost of the job, including parts, is still less than what I was looking at through the dealer, and I would've gotten a replacement motor - that's it.

I'll do my best to add a few pics this afternoon for those interested.

Figured this was worthwhile to share since obviously these types of failures can occur even with a car running near stock power levels, and with regular oil changes and maintenance. *interior maintenance is another story!!* (she's dirty).

The tune may have been a contributing factor, and Aaron over at JPC mentioned this to me specifically, but I am hesitant to really place blame there, since there are many variables that could influence this type of break down, not the least of which is my own driving habits.

It did seem like ~70k was a bit young for the motor to grenade itself, and I wonder if a few of my 7500 rpm pulls may have also been a factor. I've been told that the occasional spin to 7500 should be relatively safe. I'll probably never know for sure.
 

Weather Man

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With the tune in the car, you made the right decision and probably saved yourself a very large headache.
 

CPRsm

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Sorry to hear. But you're likely correct on the tune not causing the spun rod. A tune can cause it over time, but unlikely because it takes a good set of rods and Pistons to take abuse, and pass it to the bearings. Has enough miles on it it wasn't a build problem. Could be a fluke. Doubt 7600 rpm play time had anything to do with it unless there was another factor.
Did you check the oil often? Make sure high rpm wasn't starving the engine?
 

5lho

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Just no way to know what happened to it before you got it but, I'd say spinning to 7500 on the stock intake manifold isn't really worth the risks. That thing's dropping power fast after 65. Now you're probably pretty safe with a built short block...though you're still going to want something that likes it up there, like a CJ or Boss....and maybe some slightly beefier valvesprings, too, wth.
 

SHIFTYBUSINESS

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I had a similar problem. Spun a main bearing at 29,000mi and sank everything block, crank, heads, and cams. I had a vmp stage 2 85mm on for about 4500mi and this is why Ford sent me away. I really did'nt run the car hard it was a daily driver with the occasional get on it. Sorry to hear about it, I know how it feels.
 

Shaun@AED

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I've seen it before, factory stock engines and others. When oil level is lower than ~6qts it's quite common.

The Coyote, like any other modular, is extremely dependent on oil control. In general the Modular line of Ford engines is OK with oil control, but not the best. There is a significant amount of oil that gets wrapped up in the air around the crankshaft at high RPM.

The engine itself has roughly 2qts of oil lubricating it at all times. Another 1/4-1/2 in the filter and oil cooler (if equipped).
These engines hold 8qts total, so we should have 5.5-6qts of oil in the sump at all times during normal driving conditions, and we do until the crank windage at high RPM holds the oil in suspension. Ford modulars push the oil/air mix forward thru the holes in the main webbing of the block into the front timing cover where lower windage allows the oil/air to separate and drain back into the sump. It's not a bad way to do it, but you do need to realize there is at least 3qts of oil wrapped around the crankshaft mixed with the air (windage) at higher RPM's.
That's 2.5qts of oil in the engine and 3qts stuck in suspension at high RPM, which leaves 2.5 in the sump for the oil pump to pick up. Running these engines 2 qts low on oil will take out bearings quickly. And due to the high amount of windage and the placement of the PCV without any baffles under the valve cover, we all know how much oil the engine can suck into the manifold under heavy compression braking after a high RPM blast.

Another contributing factor is the air/oil mix takes time to separate, the oil in the sump at high RPM has a lot of air in it, reducing the lubricity of the oil getting pumped thru the engine.

For more detailed explanation see here: (start with post 95)
http://www.modularfords.com/threads/126692-Coyote-4-valve-5-0/page7
 
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NoVAGT5.0

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Thanks guys. I appreciate the comments and moral support. Hah. Clearly this was not in my plan, but few things that happen in our lives ever are. Where would the fun be in that? No element of surprise. I'm stoked to have the car in competent hands, and absolutely confident it will be back on the road in no time. On the plus side, I've never had a vehicle with a full exhaust on it before, only catback or axleback setups, and I'm thinking long tubes with an x-pipe are going to change the character of the exhaust significantly. That is not to say I'm going into this completely blind. I have a rough idea, but something tells me I am going to be wearing a very large smile on the ride home.

Shaun - thanks for chiming in here. Based on your comments, it's clear that oil is not a matter to be entered into lightly with this engine. I honestly feel as though I've been pretty thorough, but I am not the type who looks at the dipstick regularly. I change the oil frequently, often before 3,000 miles just because I am a telecommuter and the car sits more than it doesn't, but I'll be even more aggressive about this in the future. I doubt that I have an oil change interval problem, but I can't absolutely rule out that it may have gotten low at some point, simply because I wasn't pulling it and checking between those changes. I did when I first got the car, but it never burned any oil, and I eventually stopped worrying about it.

I also read in some other threads that it was hard on the motor if you beat on it when it's cold, that you should allow it to come up to operating temp before flailing on it. I live in the country, and my driveway opens up straight on to a highway where there's often not a car in sight. I've left more than my fair share of rubber stripes pulling out the driveway. It is, of course, fun, but these are just examples of things that I'll be paying closer attention to in the future.

If anyone has any other pointers, please share. I am far from a know it all, and certainly not when it comes to auto mechanics, but admittedly I did not see this one coming.

I'm sure some of you can imagine the dialog with my spouse for the last few days!! You did what? :nonono:

Life goes on, of course - as does the car. There was no way I was going to let this be the end of the road.
 

Kman11

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Great information in this thread. I hope you get it back, up and running soon! It's great you will get it back with some extra goodies too. Any other plans with it from here ( boosted, etc)?

I bought mine used with 38k miles, the dealer had the engine rebuilt before i purchased it. I spoke to the company who did the rebuild and he told me it had spun a bearing, and believed it due to running with low oil.
 

NoVAGT5.0

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Congrats kman! This was probably the first Mustang I've ever owned that I was honestly going to leave alone.

Now that the motor has gone belly up, all bets are off...lol.

My preference would've been to have JPC installing some kind of FI, but clearly that isn't in the budget given the circumstances.

That said, I am probably going to bite the bullet and do something on the intake side since I'll have the exhaust to complement that setup. I haven't pulled the trigger yet, but only because I've been weighing the pros and cons of the options and trying to decide whether or not I want to spring for the CJ setup, or stick to the less financially burdensome Boss bits.

I'm no expert, but based on the reading I've done it seems like the CJ is the better choice. There's obviously a significant cost delta, so I've been ruminating and trying to decide how deep into the rabbit hole I want to go. :banana:
 

KushBandit

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If you plan on staying NA, get the Cobra Jet setup. If FI is your end goal, I'd save the money and just get a Boss intake for the meantime.
 

Kman11

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Congrats kman! This was probably the first Mustang I've ever owned that I was honestly going to leave alone.

Now that the motor has gone belly up, all bets are off...lol.

My preference would've been to have JPC installing some kind of FI, but clearly that isn't in the budget given the circumstances.

That said, I am probably going to bite the bullet and do something on the intake side since I'll have the exhaust to complement that setup. I haven't pulled the trigger yet, but only because I've been weighing the pros and cons of the options and trying to decide whether or not I want to spring for the CJ setup, or stick to the less financially burdensome Boss bits.

I'm no expert, but based on the reading I've done it seems like the CJ is the better choice. There's obviously a significant cost delta, so I've been ruminating and trying to decide how deep into the rabbit hole I want to go. :banana:

I did alot of research about the boss intake. Seems like it's not worth it, and the cobra jet is the way to go. Of course if you plan on boost, you might as well wait.

It's tempting to go the cobra jet route and stay N/A as these cars are pretty damn fast stock, never mind with usual bolt ons. Problem with the cobra jet, is if you get the desire for more power down the road you'll end up with nitrous or selling the intake(boost route) and wasting money on the switch.

Update the thread when you get the car back, looking forward to hearing how it all works out!
 

ford20

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Oh wow that is pretty similar to what happened to mine. I spun #7 rod bearing and trashed the entire motor so I know what you are going through haha. If the heads are trashed the 2015 heads are fairly cheap and will bolt right up to the block with no issues you will gain a few HP in the process as well.

20141116_150832_zps38ef7de0.jpg

I had JPC do a build for me; we tackled the motor and did just about everything you could do it short of changing the compression and the results were pretty awesome haha. Aaron, Eric, Adam, Ronnie, Kevin & everyone else were absolutely amazing to deal with and honestly just a pleasure.
 

NoVA_Mike

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I'm reading this thread and getting all sweaty with my heart pounding. I've been boosted since mile 2,000. 67k miles and 48 payments later I'm getting a funny feeling about my car. This thread is freaking me out. For the past few months I've kind of felt like my power is a little down. I've been swapping fluids and checking everything but something feels not quite right, and my S/C belt snapped yesterday afternoon.

I actually made the decision last night to trade in my beast and get a luxury barge. Having a complete animal for a daily driver has been AWESOME, but a wise man once told me, "Always make sure you have a seat BEFORE the music stops." I LOVE my car, but I think it's time.
 

NoVAGT5.0

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Mile - don't let me scare you off from your car! One of the reasons that I created the thread was to better understand what causes a bearing failure. I was fairly confident that something I did (or didn't do) caused the problem. I don't really think it's typical for a bearing to spin unless there are extenuating circumstances. At least in my case, there was a fairly obvious audible indicator of the issue. I couldn't isolate it at first, but when I pulled a coil and the sound stopped, I knew I was in trouble. It sounded an awful lot like a sewing machine actually. Are you hearing any abnormal sounds coming from under the hood? I'd hate to think that I was scaring anyone away from their vehicle. These are great cars. I was heartbroken by this experience, sure, but I also realized that I've been pretty hard on it, and sooner or later something was bound to break. It's hard for me to wrap my head around the idea of a low oil condition causing the problem, but only because for all my shortcomings, I am normally pretty obsessive about oil related maintenance of my vehicles. I'm reasonably sure that it simply must've gotten low at some point, and all it took was getting behind the wheel under those conditions, not realizing there was a problem, and putting the hammer down (in a not so gentle kind of way).
 

Douglas White

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I'm convinced that many of the ticking issues link back to bad bearings from the factory. Too many people have had spun bearings on these motors and it always started with a "tick" sound. It seems the BBQ igniter tick is the one to worry about. The rhythmic ticking, not so much.

I'm also more than a little worried because i have not seen many posts about these engines hitting 200k without major issues, and only a few hitting 100k.
 
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GBCoyote

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If you're boosted and worried about a rod bearing, don't modify. No offense, but it's implied that eventually your motor is going to pop somehow. If not the bearings, the rod or piston.
 

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