2012 Stang Rear Brakes Squeaking!!!!

slo-5.0

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Whats up, I have a 2012 5.0 6 speed with 3:73 gears with 9k miles. The past few weeks, Ive noticed that the rear brakes make a slight squeaking noise from low speeds to about 70mph(could be still making the noise at higher speeds, but i just dont hear it). Once i hit the brakes of course the noise goes away. Which leads me to believe its the brake pads or something near there. Just curious to see if anyone else has experienced this or something like this. Only mod is a heartthrob axleback.
Thanks
 

MikeLTDLX

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Mine squeak when I hit the brakes. There is a TSB for the caliper anti-rattle clips. I have been meaning to take mine in, because it sounds like a Sherman tank when I come to a stop. LOL.
 

slo-5.0

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Yeah i might just have to take it in. Was trying to avoid it because they will keep it for a while lol. Thanks for the response
 

Swetrid

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Mine has same problem, just got the hardware under the tsb.
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TSB
12-1-1 BRAKE SQUEAK/SQUEAL - REAR BRAKES - BUILT 7/19/2011 THROUGH 12/1/2011

Publication Date: January 5, 2012

FORD: 2012 Mustang


ISSUE:
Some 2012 Mustangs built 7/19/2011 through 12/1/2011 may exhibit a squeak/squeal from the rear brakes during brake application and/or when making turns. The squeak/squeal sounds like a metal-on-metal noise (similar to a brake wear indicator noise). This concern may be due to a rear brake anti-rattle spring clip contacting the brake rotor when applying the brakes due to a broken locating tab on the anti-rattle spring clip. This may allow the anti-rattle spring clip to lightly contact the rotor causing the noise.

ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Remove rear brake pads, refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 204-04.
Care must be used when servicing rear brake components without disconnecting the parking brake cable from the brake caliper lever. Carefully position the caliper aside using a suitable support or damage to the parking brake cable end fittings may occur.
Do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose or damage to the hose may occur.
Replace new anti-rattle spring clips from brake hardware kit on both rear calipers even if the clips do not have broken retaining tabs.
Install all hardware supplied with the hardware kit.
Install original brake pads.
Position the brake caliper on the anchor plate.
Install the two (2) brake caliper guide pin bolts until snug.
Tighten the right hand caliper guide pin bolts in the following sequence:
Tighten the top bolt to 33 N-m (24 lb-ft).
Tighten the bottom bolt to 33 N-m (24 lb-ft).
Tighten the left hand caliper guide pin bolts in the following sequence:
Tighten the bottom bolt to 33 N-m (24 lb-ft).
Tighten the top bolt to 33 N-m (24 lb-ft).
Install the wheel and tire, refer to WSM, Section 204-04.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
5U2Z-2321-H Brake Hardware Kit


WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
120101A 2012 Mustang: Install The Rear Brake Hardware Kit Following The Service Procedure (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 0.6 Hr.

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
2321 01

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford or Lincoln dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.

Copyright © 2012 Ford Motor Company
 

12GTPDX

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Completely agree that the first thing you should check is the TSB that others have mentioned so far.

However, if that doesn't fix the problem permanently, you may have a bent axle flange -- how do I know? I had this problem, and it took 4 trips to the dealership and me mentioning that I'd seen the bent axle flange problem mentioned on several Mustang forums for them to check it -- once they did and replaced the part, I've been squeak free for about 5K miles now (previously, when they tried to apply the TSB fix and a couple of other things to my car, the problem would go away for a couple of days to a week, and then gradually come back until it was as bad as ever.)

Just keep that thought in your back-pocket in case the TSB doesn't fix your issue. Good luck!
 

TheYeti

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ahh crap....guess I will have to do this as well. Just noticed mine a couple days ago and I only have 3700 miles on it. I thought there was no possible way I needed new brakes.

EDIT: I've never had to take in a car for a TSB before...is there a TSB number or something that I need to reference when I schedule my appt?
 
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BlackDragon

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Completely agree that the first thing you should check is the TSB that others have mentioned so far.

However, if that doesn't fix the problem permanently, you may have a bent axle flange -- how do I know? I had this problem, and it took 4 trips to the dealership and me mentioning that I'd seen the bent axle flange problem mentioned on several Mustang forums for them to check it -- once they did and replaced the part, I've been squeak free for about 5K miles now (previously, when they tried to apply the TSB fix and a couple of other things to my car, the problem would go away for a couple of days to a week, and then gradually come back until it was as bad as ever.)

Just keep that thought in your back-pocket in case the TSB doesn't fix your issue. Good luck!

Same here. Bent axle found after 4 trips. What a pain in the ass

-Ant
 

99mstng

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How did they fix? Just a new axle or full rear end? My rear end whines too . . . What were your symptons?

My rear brakes chatter/squeak while driving and it gets slightly louder when I accelerate then goes away the second I apply brakes or pull the e brake up 1 notch. I've got a Brembo car built 6/6/11 and the dealer replaced my rear pads at about 2k miles (had been making noise since 600ish) and it was gone for a few days and now has returned.
 

12GTPDX

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How did they fix? Just a new axle or full rear end? My rear end whines too . . . What were your symptons?

My rear brakes chatter/squeak while driving and it gets slightly louder when I accelerate then goes away the second I apply brakes or pull the e brake up 1 notch. I've got a Brembo car built 6/6/11 and the dealer replaced my rear pads at about 2k miles (had been making noise since 600ish) and it was gone for a few days and now has returned.

In my case, they replaced the driver-side axle components.

The symptom I had was a rotational squeak that went away when the brakes were applied, and which also went away temporarily when they either applied the TSB fix, or just slathered a bunch of grease onto the brake components (which they tried a couple of times.) Of course, as the "adjustment" normalized or the grease wore away with the continued rubbing of the bent flange, the squeaking would return.

I would also get increased squeaking when the rear suspension loaded, either upon acceleration or when going over uneven surfaces (like speed bumps.)
 

99mstng

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Nice - sounds like I have a bent axle . . . how the F did I bend the axle of a brand new car within 600 miles? Never hit anything, never drag raced, etc. This has to be a weak design - I do have the 3.73's and the squeak certainly does increase or is more noticable under load/acceleration.

Could the increased gear wine I'm noticing too be being caused by the axle? Could my gears be shot now because of this?
 

12GTPDX

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Nice - sounds like I have a bent axle . . . how the F did I bend the axle of a brand new car within 600 miles? Never hit anything, never drag raced, etc. This has to be a weak design - I do have the 3.73's and the squeak certainly does increase or is more noticable under load/acceleration.

Could the increased gear wine I'm noticing too be being caused by the axle? Could my gears be shot now because of this?

If it's just the flange, like it has been for most everyone I've seen have this problem, then I wouldn't think your gears are being impacted (but I'd ask the dealership this if that's what they diagnose.)

And assuming you have the same issue that the others have had with a bent axle flange, YOU didn't do anything (esp. if you're sure you haven't done anything to cause it.) This would be a factory flaw (as evidenced by the no-questions-asked replacement that everyone has gotten from Ford once this problem was diagnosed.)
 

99mstng

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OK - I assume they changed your rear end fluid too if they pulled the axle? Someone suggested I add some friction modifier to see if it helped but if Ford is going to have to do that anyway I won't touch it . . .
 

12GTPDX

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OK - I assume they changed your rear end fluid too if they pulled the axle? Someone suggested I add some friction modifier to see if it helped but if Ford is going to have to do that anyway I won't touch it . . .

Pretty good assumption there; just be sure you tell them that you specifically want them to check the axle when you take it in, even if they want to start with the TSB solution -- they're going to be under the car anyway, and it'd be great if you didn't have to go through frustration of multiple trips to get an ultimate fix, like BlackDragon and I did ...
 

99mstng

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They already replaced the pads and last I talked to them said they were going to sand down some of the pad this time. Their thought was that something was on the pad or in the pad material causing the noise. Clearly not the case and my car doesn't fit the build date for that TSB.
 

12GTPDX

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LOL! I think the "sanding of the pads" was what my dealer tried on the second visit ...

I'll really be interested to hear how this turns out for you!
 
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BlackDragon

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Same story like you guys. A rotational chirp and highway whine. 3.73's with bbp built the end of june.

First trip they couldn't duplicate. Second trip they heard it and cut the rotors. Third trip they cut the rotors again and put new pads and hardware. Forth trip they found the bent axles and replaced both sides with new axles, rotors, and pads. Then they ordered a new diff and gears. Replaced it and the new gears were even louder, so they replaced them again. Six trips and 3 weeks total downtime.

Still whines a little, but its better than before and I'm tired of bringing it in.

Funny was the part when they asked if I raced. I asked them how I could possibly bend the axle flange in a side to side fashion by racing (which is the way they are bent btw, and why you don't feel a vibration) and he just changed the subject.

-Ant
 

99mstng

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WOW - so if I can pull this off in two visits I'll be lucky huh . . . better give me a sweet rental car!
 

99mstng

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Nice - I used to have Grand Prix GTP, that was in service every other week for GM's typical wiring issues, etc. and I used to get mostly Malibu's or even a couple Equinox's. Then one time I went in and all they had for me was an HHR LOL felt like such a tool driving that car and when I pulled back in with it everyone was laughing . . .

The Grand Prix was the reason I ordered a new 5.0 - I've had a 99 v6 mustang since 02 and its got 130k on it (DD) and I've never taken it to a dealer!
 

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