Appreciate it!
Steel panhard bar
gt rear springs
adjust the suspension properly
26 inch slicks
6500rpm clutch dumps
460whp/390wtq SAE!!!
- Thread starter EJR
- Start date
Appreciate it!
Steel panhard bar
gt rear springs
adjust the suspension properly
26 inch slicks
6500rpm clutch dumps
Exzactly....
Slicks and high rpm launch will shave ET easy. Leaving harder may help bring the mph as you are adding power sooner in the run. But then again a slick can hide some mph too. My car with the stock intake went 11.44 but only at 116 mph. That was on a 28 Hoosier stiff wall. That mph seems low for that ET. Gotta be because of the slicks and headwind that night.
Good luck with the clutch. Did you install a new slave cylinder when you did the conversion?
Good luck with the clutch. Did you install a new slave cylinder when you did the conversion?
I expect to gain 1.5-2mph with a strong 60 ft at NED. I expect to be right at 124mph at that track. While a slick can hide mph yes... Ill take a slick at 12-15psi for mph any day over a DR at 12-15psi to pull harder in the back half. A drag radial is just not optimal at that psi... but it was what i had to do for the day...
As far as the clutch. No new slave. Any shifting issues came from the stock pressure plate hanging up at WOT.
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Regardless of your track times and trap speeds your car runs very hard on the street.....to me that's what is important.
11.2 @ 128 mph DA 2800 at island in NJ had some tuning issues with meth. Will get out in 2 weeks just put a new clutch in will run without meth. So as it sits should be good run with you according to all your street videos. Dynos are great for tuning mine said 620 ish to the wheels but by my last track time more like 500 will see without meth the way the car was originally tuned. I'm not trying to say your car isn't fast but dynos are for tuning and the track and street tell the story.
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Oh, I thought you had a aftermarket clutch in the car. Seems slave cylinders failing in the 2005 and up cars is not too uncommon. And that is when you get goofy clutch pedal dis engagement locations and such.
I am sure the ET will drop significantly with a slick. That is what really matters anyways. Good luck
Maybe a better drag radial
I believe there is a balance, claiming good numbers with a full slick is cool but being able to drive 100 miles to track and go straight to the staging lanes and run is another thing. Believe that is what makes a true street car. However I will say everything runs better with more traction. Also remember if you go with a 28 inch tall tire you are effectively decreasing your rear end ratio numerically. So if 28 inch tall tires are in your future I would go with a 4.30 gear or higher otherwise stick with a 26 inch tire. Just my .02 cents. Nice vids and runs by the way.
I believe there is a balance, claiming good numbers with a full slick is cool but being able to drive 100 miles to track and go straight to the staging lanes and run is another thing. Believe that is what makes a true street car. However I will say everything runs better with more traction. Also remember if you go with a 28 inch tall tire you are effectively decreasing your rear end ratio numerically. So if 28 inch tall tires are in your future I would go with a 4.30 gear or higher otherwise stick with a 26 inch tire. Just my .02 cents. Nice vids and runs by the way.
All I do is swap the rear tires at the track. Doesn't make it a race car. I daily drive my car, so I refuse to even run a drag radial due to rain and snow traction concerns. So a slick is a better choice if I have to swap tires anyways. Plus the local tracks around here swing wildly as far as prep goes from day to day. Heck, even hour by hour. Being consistent on a drag radial, with a stick car in a street car is very hard.
I prefer to be consistent and show a better ET. Other people like to show MPH as a "better" degree of performance while drag racing. To each their own.
I prefer to be consistent and show a better ET. Other people like to show MPH as a "better" degree of performance while drag racing. To each their own.
LOL one person mentions AED in this forum and everyone jumps on that person so fast.. the guy makes good tunes guys, but lets not make him seem like there's no other options or better yet ones better than his.
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Im not sure I understand.... you said me making 455whp and going 122 was a happy dyno...but you making 620 and going 128 wasnt?
I have a mcleod RST in the car
Im actually going to a 26.5 inch slick.
There always has to be that one guy that has to say something stupid, I'm guessing that's you. :burn:
I saw all your video wins figured while I was up in your area you could chalk one more up... Good luck with your car hopefully you meet your goals. Can't wait to get my car back and get the clutch broken in, because to date my track numbers and 60-130 #s are almost identical to the ones you have in your sig.
My 60-130 numbers are much more optimal then my track times/trap. Ideally a perfect pass at Atco in low da would run me 126-127mph trap. I am eventually going to make a trip to Atco to see just how generous those hero times/traps are. But i wont bother until this car is running at 100% before hand
Well wont be headed up this weekend. Have more work to do then expected. I apparently smoked my factory torsen carrier. Making some nice clicking/grinding noises. So changing it out to a carbon clutched cobra posi and new bearings all the way around. Adding my BMR panhard bar to replace my junk aluminium one. Also adding a BMR differential upper bushing where the third link is. That should get rid of the remaining deflection in the rear end. Then cutting down the GT rear springs i have to the correct ride height and setting the proper geometry. Should work nice when all set and done. Just going to need a solid 26.5" slick now.
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