'5.0 Stroker Aluminator Build' Picture Heavy

[jrgoffin]

Matt,

I hope you put some dabs of silicone on the front head and block joints before the timing cover went on! This was something that they did at Romeo, but I don't think it is in the service manual (there are also two small beads that go on at the base of the rear main seal retainer before the oil pan gets mounted). Definitely don't want any other setbacks due to small oil leaks!

More details on this page of my thread at MF's:

http://www.modularfords.com/threads...build/page13?p=2148929&viewfull=1#post2148929

Here is a pic from the Romeo assembly manual:

Also, a pic from my build thread showing the beads before the timing cover went on:

 

[matthayn]

Very nice build! It might seem like a lot of work now....but once it's done, it's always worth it! Trust me. Good luck with the rest of the build.

Thanks, it has worn at my patience some over the last month, more than anything I'm ready to have my car back. I hate seeing it just sitting there collecting dust! You definitely find out how much you like your car when you try going without it for a little while.

Matt,

I hope you put some dabs of silicone on the front head and block joints before the timing cover went on! This was something that they did at Romeo, but I don't think it is in the service manual (there are also two small beads that go on at the base of the rear main seal retainer before the oil pan gets mounted). Definitely don't want any other setbacks due to small oil leaks!

Thanks for the heads up Joe! We did dab some silicone on those junctions/corners. If you look close in the engine bay pic above you can see some poking out on each side on the head to block connection, more so on the driver's side, but it's there on both sides. I could definitely see those spots seeping some oil if someone were to overlook that little detail!

 

[jrgoffin]

Thanks for the heads up Joe! We did dab some silicone on those junctions/corners. If you look close in the engine bay pic above you can see some poking out on each side on the head to block connection, more so on the driver's side, but it's there on both sides. I could definitely see those spots seeping some oil if someone were to overlook that little detail!

Good to hear, Matt - crisis averted! That page I posted should also be good reference for anyone doing this in any case.

One favor to ask since we have the same blocks: can you get a pic from the valley of one of the heads showing any of the studs (if you have one before the covers went on)?

I'm curious about how far yours threaded in. Since my block came from a PP car, the bores for the original head bolts may not have been as deep as the production blocks, but the studs still stick up about 1/4" above the top of the nuts. Not a big deal, but all the other engines I have seen show them threaded down enough that the nut just covers the top. I did make sure to thread mine all the way down, and all the bores were identical in depth.

Anyway, here's how mine look:

 

[matthayn]

One favor to ask since we have the same blocks: can you get a pic from the valley of one of the heads showing any of the studs (if you have one before the covers went on)?

This is the best I can do - wish I would've thought to snap more pics with the cams out! Unfortunately we can't see the threads...

The previous owner had the fuel lines routed oddly and it always bothered me how sloppy it looked, so took the lines I had and rerouted everything to have a much cleaner look with the same effect of fuel delivery. I do not have decent before picture but I have a diagram drawing of how it was done. The feed lines came out of a Y block, one looped over the intake and pass side valve cover, the other side went around behind the blower and over the driver side valve cover, and the regulator was sitting on the driver side valve cover unsecured. I hated it!

So I ditched the Y block and a couple lines and basically made a loop from one rail to the other, keeping the driver side rail the second rail of course, since it holds the FRPS and wideband. Then the lines exit and route back around the regulator which is now secured to the passenger side strut tower. One side of the regulator is now capped off and the return line exits just like it did before. I still am going to tweak the line and fittings that route over the blower, but for now it is rigged where it will not interfere with the throttle cables.

That is how it sits now. I have the new trans input shaft here, we will be assembling trans and installing this week, I'm hoping for first start this weekend...

 

[jrgoffin]

This is the best I can do - wish I would've thought to snap more pics with the cams out! Unfortunately we can't see the threads...

That's perfect, thanks Matt. Yours appear to thread in a bit more, but it still looks like some of the stud - maybe 1/8" - is still above the nut. It must be an aluminum block thing that the bores aren't as deep. Yours go in just a bit more than mine, so it must have been an "update" as the blocks progressed.

 

[matthayn]

Car is up and running! Here is a sound clip from the other night.
I cannot figure out how to embed a video - someone please pm me and explain it to me lol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJWleu82lrs

I may also upload a video of first start later on. It fired right up on my old tune and went fairly smooth overall!

I've put around 300 miles on the new setup, so far so good. I've had a few small kinks to work out but nothing major. It won't be long before I get the first WOT pull and datalog done - I'm anxious to get it completely tuned and see how it fares against other cars!

 

[Roots-type]

Sounds good! I bet it fares well.

 

[Packerfan88]

Can you pm how to set the timing correctly I'd greatly appreciate it!

 

[jrgoffin]

Nice job, Matt. You definitely beat me to the finish line! Hoping to turn the key on mine in the next several weeks. Nothing like a sense of accomplishment when you've built one of these!

Can you pm how to set the timing correctly I'd greatly appreciate it!

It's all in the other build thread linked in Post #2. The FRPP instructions are in there for the timing kit in PDF format.

 

[matthayn]

After over 400 miles I've had a bit of a setback. I was halfway through a third gear pull when the countershaft of my T56 let go. Luckily I was only a few miles from home and able to limp the car to my garage in 4th, the only gear I had left, and it still was making some God awful racket down there...

To give some history on what caused this see an earlier posted pic of my old input shaft (edit: bottom of post #16). That should have been a red flag to me that something has been really wrong in this trans for a while, now I know it was most likely a countershaft issue, clearance, shims, something way off. The trans had always whined a bit, but it was worse after pulling it and getting the input shaft right, and seemed to continue to get a louder whine after making pulls to datalog/tune up until it popped. I'm sure that new input shaft is trashed now too.

So I need a new trans, I want to start fresh, i'll let someone else rebuild this one if they want it. I can't decide on sourcing a stock T56 with 26 spline input or pulling the trigger on a Magnum. Anyone have recommendations? I know there's a few modifications needed to make a Magnum work, just not sure if it's worth the hassle.

Also thinking of selling my pre production 03 longblock to offset the cost.

 

[matthayn]

Here's the carnage, it turns out the countershaft is not broken... Would love to hear some opinions on what happened here :fm:

 

[BLKFOX]

Here's the carnage, it turns out the countershaft is not broken... Would love to hear some opinions on what happened here :fm:

Good lord!!!!!!

 

[Roots-type]

That happened while you were in the middle of 3rd gear? Bizarre..

 

[gabe1530]

cool build!

any updates?
plans with the trans?

 

[matthayn]

cool build!

any updates?
plans with the trans?

Mag T56 has arrived! Hoping to get cracking on install this weekend. I'll get the trans in and bolted up, measure for DS length with the new yoke, and send it off to be cut down and rebalanced. The driveshaft shop told me about a week turnaround, and then I have 500 miles of trans break in to look forward to. :bored:

 

[matthayn]

Magnum install complete and I have around 100 miles on it so far, and it feels great. For any Mach 1 guys wanting to convert to the magnum, I would suggest taking a look at Malcolm's thread about this trans here: http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...one-a-T56-Magnum-I-m-getting-conflicting-info
- much of the install info I got from there. Here's a few pics to help show the little things you'll run into on install.

The magnum comes with two small slots in the face of it to accommodate the movement of the clutch fork, but if you're running a twin disc clutch those slots are still not enough. I opted to grind on the clutch fork as it is much cheaper and easier to replace if something were to happen to it as opposed to grinding the face of the trans.

The top side will need the most work, the bottom just a little, and notched the corner off the clutch weight as it was touching.

Another issue as most know is the driveshaft length. The new Sonnax 31 spline yoke was also 1/2" longer than the standard 27 spline T56 yoke. I measured the magnum to be 3/4" longer overall the T56. I had the DS shortened 1.25" and it turned out perfect. This pic was to show the stock DS and yoke held up to the magnum after installation.

Mach 1 guys, with my firewall adjuster and quadrant I was still on the edge of having the correct preload on the clutch. Not sure if this is something others would run into but for me that was the case. I grabbed a new Cobra clutch cable from Ford and installed which that brought it within spec. The Cobra cable a tad thicker than stock Mach cable too. Something to keep in mind if you're thinking of doing the swap.

This build is done for a while! Hopefully the next round of mods will include a fat Whipple up top...

 

[SID297]

This makes me feel like I need to get into the garage and turn some wrenches.

 

[bleedingfordblu]

very cool man!

 

[DSG2003Mach1]

nice build!

Im so close to firing up my Mach1 rebuild I cant stand it

 

[sonicdan]

Any updates? Ordered the whipple yet???epper: