A/C issues

toomanytoys

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The a/c in my car was blowing warm air and I figured it just needed a recharge. When I connect the manifold to the system I get a high side reading of 110 psi which rises to 150 until the compressor shuts off. Low side is down around 20 psi. I started to add Freon through the low side and the system took about 5 minutes to accept it. Now the high side pressure is at 220 psi and the low side around 40. The compressor keeps cycling on and off and the air coming out of the vents is just cool. If I drive the car the air gets warmer until I take my foot off the gas. The car will start to put out cool air at idle

Is the low side pressure too low? Does it seem that there may be a clog in the orifice valve? I’m assuming the air gets warmer when driving due to the compressor cycling off because of too high pressure. Is this correct? What’s my next step?
 

DSG2003Mach1

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do you get equal pressure on both sides once the AC has been off for a few minutes?

I dont remember the low and highside cutoff pressures but sounds like youre hitting one of em
 

toomanytoys

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I didn’t check the pressure when off. I am now wondering if I have a vacuum leak. When I turn the a/c on it blows out of the floor vents for a second or two and then moves up to the dash
 

DSG2003Mach1

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I didn’t check the pressure when off. I am now wondering if I have a vacuum leak. When I turn the a/c on it blows out of the floor vents for a second or two and then moves up to the dash

if the ac stays stuck on the defrost vents (default) that's usually a vacuum leak

if the AC is on high the compressor shouldnt be cycling to the best of my knowledge
 

hotcobra03

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Mine has been sitting more for the ac not working.

Issues I have.

Air does come out defrost vent.

Ac stops blowing when just slightly accelerating

I’m about to just replace lines and compressor and what not.

Really miss driving this car
 

toomanytoys

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My air comes out on the floor then moves to the dash vents. Mine also goes warm at light acceleration
 

zredfire04

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You have trash in your orifice tube and system is overcharged.

40psi low side is normal with ~110psi high side. 110/20 is too much restriction. Going up to 150 and cutting out is a dead giveaway.

Recover refrigerant, install new orifice (they're $3.00), evacuate, and properly charge. Don't use the crap that has oil in the freon. Too much oil is bad.
 

zredfire04

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It's in the line that exits the condensor. Somewhere. Never pulled mine, so can't give more info than that. There's probably a manual that will show where it is. It'll be right after a union, in a hard line.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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the ac system is sealed, if theres trash in the orifice tube it may well be the compressor coming apart. I suppose it could be a hose failing inside out as well but either way a clogged orifice tube isn't a good sign
 

shurur

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The orifice is actually crimped into the line that exits the condensor..as said above. You will be able to see the crimp.
Unless the terminator is different from previous years, you just generally replace the entire line.

You could probably cut the line to each side of the crimp and put a santech compression union/orifice tube holder. It might be worth a try.
 
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hotcobra03

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The orifice is actually crimped into the line that exits the condensor..as said above. You will be able to see the crimp.
Unless the terminator is different from previous years, you just generally replace the entire line.

You could probably cut the line to each side of the crimp and put a santech compression union/orifice tube holder. It might be worth a try.

Manual says replace line.
Scrader valves im finding don’t come out. Broke 2 tools trying to get 1 out at bone yard

I had a place repaired a hole in my low side .
air filter was rubbing line.

I recall them saying they can make new lines not sure on cost. Repair was 10bucks
 

shurur

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The orifice is actually crimped into the line that exits the condensor..as said above. You will be able to see the crimp.
Unless the terminator is different from previous years, you just generally replace the entire line.

You could probably cut the line to each side of the crimp and put a santech compression union/orifice tube holder. It might be worth a try.

"you just generally replace the entire line."
 

zredfire04

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There's a youtube video on an 03 gt orifice tube replacement. If it isn't a scam, the tube is right at the condensor outlet. Cobra should be the same.

It's def not a good sign to have a stopped up orifice. Changing it can delay the need for a new compressor though.
 

hotcobra03

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There's a youtube video on an 03 gt orifice tube replacement. If it isn't a scam, the tube is right at the condensor outlet. Cobra should be the same.

It's def not a good sign to have a stopped up orifice. Changing it can delay the need for a new compressor though.


Was this the one you watched?

I’m going to look today on mine.
 

wckdvnm

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Orfice tube is located in the upper hose that comes from the condenser on passenger side of the radiator; You can replace just the tube.
 
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toomanytoys

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I’ll just replace the tube and see what happens. As far as it being clogged it might be due to A/C Pro. I made the mistake of using that crap in my 98 Expy when I was in Florida on vacation and my a/c went out. It worked for a while and then it backed up. When I pulled the valve it looked like it was fill of gray rubber. I guess that pro crap has some kind of stop leak in it. The previous owner might have done the same to my cobra. There was a empty can of that crap in the trunk when I bought the car
 

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