Aluminator In

elyrain

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Yes, the teksid is stronger, but 99.9% of people won't be making over 700hp, so what's the difference?

This motor is an absolute steal if your going for less then 700hp. Keep in mind that you can part out your stock crank, block, v/c, timing cover, oil pan, ect and heads for more then $1000. I've seen these motors for sale for as cheap as $5600 shipped. Subtract $1000 from that and your getting a brand new long block with better heads for $4600. Without waiting 1-4 weeks for them to rebuild your shortblock. Good luck getting your engine rebuilt for $4600 with a new valve job.

I'd be very interested to see what the aluminator n/a dyno's.
 

99COBRA2881

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Good luck getting your engine rebuilt for $4600 with a new valve job.

Good luck??

Luck had nothing to do with it, it seems most guys on here just like to pay way too much when it comes time to rebuild these short blocks.
 
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olgreydog7

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Good luck??

Luck had nothing to do with it, it seems most guys on here just like to pay way too much when it comes time to rebuild these short blocks.

I gotta agree here. Pretty sure I can get a big bore for that price. I still think the Aluminator is a good deal, but for my money, I'm going big bore. Maybe if this had come out earlier, I would have thought about this with some big cams and a Sully. I've already sunk alot into the heads, cams, and intake though.
 

Gallows

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Good luck??

Luck had nothing to do with it, it seems most guys on here just like to pay way too much when it comes time to rebuild these short blocks.

I've noticed quite a discrepancy in rebuild prices as well. When my engine is toast i'd look at one of these before a rebuild.
 

elyrain

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You people must not know what it cost just to SWAP a shortblock, your looking at least new head gaskets and studs, that's more then $300, and another 600 for a correct valve job, then the labor, $400+ to put the engine together. Just a street mod 800 with an aluminum block is 3600 from mmr, and they are the cheapest of the cheap, oh and you get to reuse your own 99/01 heads or maybe you'll spend $500 porting them to flow as much as the 03/04's. It adds up very quickly...

Obviously anyone who can perform engine work for themselves is at a huge advantage here, but most people can't.
 

olgreydog7

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Actually, teh street mod 600 is cheaper, and if you use your old block and crank, I think it comes in a less than 2 grand. I doubt Ford is using anything other than stock gaskets and bolts. I just bought every gasket and bolt to do my head swap from Steve at Tousley, it was less than $200. If you aren't swapping cams, why are you doing a valve job? You can pick up new fully assesmbled "05" heads, the improved 03-04 ones, from Steve for less than 2 grand. So there, MMR block, Ford gaskets and bolts, 05 heads, you are right at 4 grand. Even upgrading to the mod 800 using your own block and crank is only $2500. Port your stock heads and you save a grand over buying new. There are LOTS of ways to do this on a reasonable budget. Gone are the days of the $1500 5.0 rebuild, but you can do this reasonably cheap. Cheaper than a Ford crate anyway.
 

Thunder5.0

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I have nothing against MMR. They probably have real good stuff there. I was just in the market for a longblock. I compared the two. Ford Racing's price was more competitive and they were ready to ship as soon as I placed the order.
So far, I have no complaints with the Aluminator. For anyone that is looking into purchasing one, it comes with sparkplugs, studded header bolts and steel gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, new waterpump, all wrapped up in a nice wooden crate package. Oh, and I only payed $15 for shipping.
 

droptopsnake01

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since when did aluminum blocks only handle 700rwhp? ill take my .020 motor w/ cp pistons and my h-beams anyday over some overpriced regular shortblock or some big bore/ stroker crap. I would rather put my $$ elsewhere like the turbo kit or a real fuel system
 

elyrain

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Actually, teh street mod 600 is cheaper, and if you use your old block and crank, I think it comes in a less than 2 grand. I doubt Ford is using anything other than stock gaskets and bolts. I just bought every gasket and bolt to do my head swap from Steve at Tousley, it was less than $200. If you aren't swapping cams, why are you doing a valve job? You can pick up new fully assesmbled "05" heads, the improved 03-04 ones, from Steve for less than 2 grand. So there, MMR block, Ford gaskets and bolts, 05 heads, you are right at 4 grand. Even upgrading to the mod 800 using your own block and crank is only $2500. Port your stock heads and you save a grand over buying new. There are LOTS of ways to do this on a reasonable budget. Gone are the days of the $1500 5.0 rebuild, but you can do this reasonably cheap. Cheaper than a Ford crate anyway.


you do a valve job because most people spin a rod bearing from burning oil, from bad valve seals. So your just going to throw some new parts in your old block and crank with no other $$ involved? No micro polishing, no decking, no bored .020 over, no shop checking your clearances or putting it together? All that cost money. Parts are one thing, labor is the culprit in these engines.

You'll see once your engine rebuild is complete, I thought I was going to do it cheap also, but all those little things add up.
 

olgreydog7

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you do a valve job because most people spin a rod bearing from burning oil, from bad valve seals. So your just going to throw some new parts in your old block and crank with no other $$ involved? No micro polishing, no decking, no bored .020 over, no shop checking your clearances or putting it together? All that cost money. Parts are one thing, labor is the culprit in these engines.

You'll see once your engine rebuild is complete, I thought I was going to do it cheap also, but all those little things add up.


No. Hence why I said that new heads would be 2 grand and some ported heads would be around $1000. The micro polishing, decking, bore, all that would be done by MMR. I'm not talking about just buying new rods and pistons and slaping them in there. Yes I know it all adds up. I'm kinda a nerd like that, I have a spreedsheet with EVERYTHING on it. Every bolt, gasket, fluid, and part. As for labor, nothing a good set of tools won't cover. Especially since most shops will not cover things anymore. At least it's no one's fault but my own if the whole thing flies apart.

I still think the Aluminator is a good deal, but there are options if you can't quite afford one. It is nice to have a genuine Ford part.
 

Nazman

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since when did aluminum blocks only handle 700rwhp? ill take my .020 motor w/ cp pistons and my h-beams anyday over some overpriced regular shortblock or some big bore/ stroker crap. I would rather put my $$ elsewhere like the turbo kit or a real fuel system

Crap? You need to get off your "FI" little cloud bud. FI is not the end it all.

My little "crap" motor will destroy 98% of all FI cars out there on the streets bud....on motor!

At the end, you will spend the same or MORE on a FI car than on a fully build NA motor and guess what, the NA motor will kill that FI car 2 time out of 3, be more reliable and be lots more fun.

And if you dont know what a NA Big Bore/Stroker is capable of producing...dont run your mouth.

Naz
 

zPipes

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lol Naz.

<----- Huuuge n/a fan. Goal for me is 500 rwhp n/a.
 
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