^^^^better then a factory stock motor that has the weaker rods and pistons...
^^^^better then a factory stock motor that has the weaker rods and pistons...
I'd be curious to hear how the Aluminator Pistons/Rods compare to the Boss shortblock Pistons/Rods. I'm guessing the Aluminator rods are better but just my opinion.
There are a couple of aluminators making over 1000whp, not sure if stock bosses have made that, but if they have... i'm pretty sure they'd be on borrowed time. The same thing thing can't be said about the aluminator. It should hold 1000whp just fine.
^ We can then agree to disagree.
I'd be curious to hear how the Aluminator Pistons/Rods compare to the Boss shortblock Pistons/Rods. I'm guessing the Aluminator rods are better but just my opinion.
I was told by a very reliable source that Jon Lund and team tore up an Aluminator in the 1200 rwhp range. This was in the twin turbo car that KenB built.
I want to say there was something experimental about this engine that isn't available on standard issued Aluminators, but I do not recall the details.
Aluminator > Boss
I'm guessing they had the sportsman block from what I "heard".
Built Motor >>>> Aluminator.
Basically all the Aluminator has over a Boss is better H beam rods and "maybe" better pistons (oil pump gears if you get the 9.5 version). I looked at the specs and don't see Main studs, head studs, billet rods etc.
Built Motor >>>> Aluminator.
Basically all the Aluminator has over a Boss is better H beam rods and "maybe" better pistons (oil pump gears if you get the 9.5 version). I looked at the specs and don't see Main studs, head studs, billet rods etc.
I agree. I said it before, if I had an excessive surplus of cash I would have an L&M Tornado block setup. For 7500 bucks cam cover to oil pan, the Aluminator is a good option. Aluminator has ARP rod bolts, thats it. I haven't seen any inadequacies in the main bolts or head bolts up to this point.
Why would you want billet rods when the block itself is not reliable above 1000whp ? :dw:
H-beam rods will support over 150whp per rod, i don't see why there would be a need for billet rods. Also, have we seen people with aluminator motors lifting heads, blowing headgaskets or having problems with head and main bolts?
I agree. I said it before, if I had an excessive surplus of cash I would have an L&M Tornado block setup. For 7500 bucks cam cover to oil pan, the Aluminator is a good option. Aluminator has ARP rod bolts, thats it. I haven't seen any inadequacies in the main bolts or head bolts up to this point.
There are a few modifications/fixes out there that can take the block over 1000hp. If I'm building a motor right the first time, I'm putting billet rods, but like you said, that power level requires block modifications.
I think we are still in the early stages of the 5.0 modifications, but running head and main studs is always wise on High HP motors, be it a 5.0, 4.6/5.4 etc. The 4.6/5.4s didn't start pushing gaskets until high HP levels.
I agree as a complete package, the Aluminator is a good solution, but it's basically a Boss motor with better rods. I see the Aluminator uses the Mahle forged piston, probably the same as the Boss Mahle piston.
I don't think I'd ever trust a TTY bolt at the high hp levels like some of us want to make. As I said before, a lot of cars are having success with them, but that's not to say we won't see failures.
I don't think I'd ever trust a TTY bolt at the high hp levels like some of us want to make. As I said before, a lot of cars are having success with them, but that's not to say we won't see failures.
if you read the aluminator descrition, it says "forged mahle pistons with xxxxxx coating"
are the boss302 pistons trully forged? We know they have some type of coating, but is the metal in them trully forged?
also how much is a boss 302 turn-key longblock?
you don't trust any TTY bolt eh... then you wouldn't trust a boss302 motor at all, right?
I trust them.