Aluminator Long Block Q

Is the Aluminator Long Block to be Trusted in the Long Run?

  • Wouldn't worry about it - It's a great motor!

    Votes: 21 77.8%
  • I don't have full confidence in it - Stock block is a better way to go.

    Votes: 6 22.2%

  • Total voters
    27

DJG

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Alright, so I have an 03 termi that I was pretty much sold on until I did my due dilligence on the Aluminator. Long story short, this car only has 8k miles on it, owner blew a vacuum line of the blower and fried one of the banks of the stock motor - Hence the new Aluminator long block now in the car with roughly 2k miles on it.

Here's my concern: I would like to build this car into an all around performer that will be reliable enough to drive on a daily basis, if I choose to do so, competitive on a road coarse, and (a given) fun to blast down the quarter. The stock Romeo block is tried and true for a good 525-575 RWHP on a daily driven vehicle. I've not seen any long term results out of the Aluminator; in fact, all I've heard about is the problem with the crank pulley wearing a hole in the engine cover. I REALLY want this car, but I'd be beyond livid if I bought it, drove it for 5, 15 or even 30k miles, and wound up with a hole in my block...

Does anyone have more experience with this particular engine? I need to know if this is something I should absolutely not worry about, or if there is uncertainty about it. I really can't afford to spend (nor do I want to) this kind of money on a car if I don't know the engine in it is going to be strong or reliable enough to handle what I'm buying it for - Driving, racing, fun.

On a side note, I'm well aware that racing results in breaking parts... But unless you're careless, or have something unfortunate happen (like a vacuum line come off your blower) the engine should fail - I can deal with replacing clutches, shift forks, even a differential, but I don't want to replace an engine.

Your insight and opinions would be greatly appreciated.

I've made a poll, just to make it easier for me to see how many people are confident in this engine compared to how many have doubts.

Thank you
 

97desertCobra

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Should be just fine. The aluminum block is nice if you want to compete on the road course. Less front end weight. The block they use in the aluminator can handle a beating. I would worry about the pistons melting before I worried about splitting the block. There are Mach 1 owners running 500-700 rwhp on thier factory blocks without issue. Linemup is pushing over 1000rwhp with his BB stroker factory Mach 1 aluminum block.
 

DJG

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Thanks for the feedback, guys. I'm still wary because of all of the horror stories I've read on this site...
 

Chris'04TERMY

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call svt and talk to them. They were telling me that it is stronger than the stock block. Hard to believe but its what they say. IDK if i had the 6 or 7'g to buy one i would.
 

97desertCobra

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Thanks for the feedback, guys. I'm still wary because of all of the horror stories I've read on this site...

Pretty much everyone that has problems with the aluminator had got them when they first came out. Now FRPP has sinced fixed the issues. I wouldnt worry about it anymore.
 

DJG

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Pretty much everyone that has problems with the aluminator had got them when they first came out. Now FRPP has sinced fixed the issues. I wouldnt worry about it anymore.

The guy I'm possibly buying this car off of did the swap back in like June of 08, I believe. Seems to be about the time people were reporting problems.
 

97desertCobra

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The guy I'm possibly buying this car off of did the swap back in like June of 08, I believe. Seems to be about the time people were reporting problems.

And the people that had problems with the engine had problems on start up. You said the engine has about 2k miles on it, which means its past its break in miles period. It has ran fine so far right? The engine is fine, I wouldnt worry about it at all.
 

jumperjack

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EDIT PLEASE READ MY POST IN THE ALUMINATOR SWAP THREAD
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/668233-aluminator-swop.html
I have 5,000 miles on mine and everything is NOT good. I have had it at as much as 21 lbs. boost and over 625/570. While it is true the first batch had problems and I got one of them FRPP has since fixed the problem. It is a pretty good deal for a factory longblock and for an added + you get the revised heads on the longblock. I am in the process of taking mine out and switching over to the Boss 302 iron block only because of power level I will be running on the new set up. I have done both compression and leak down tests on mine and all is good after 5,000 miles.
 
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97desertCobra

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........and to think you cudda had a Boss 5.0 block :nonono:

The car in question is a car the OP is considering buying. The car already has the aluminator replacement shortblock in the car and running. Besides, with the OP's desire to get this car onto the road course having that heavier Boss block vs the much lighter than stock aluminum block is a not the ideal block. Aluminum FTW.
 

SlowSVT

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The car in question is a car the OP is considering buying. The car already has the aluminator replacement shortblock in the car and running. Besides, with the OP's desire to get this car onto the road course having that heavier Boss block vs the much lighter than stock aluminum block is a not the ideal block. Aluminum FTW.

I hear ya on the heavier engine thing. For a road course and what he plans on doing a Boss block actually makes more sense then an aluminum block. Road racing is much more punishing on an engine over drag racing which only gets thrashed in 10 seconds intervals. After many 1000's of hard miles break down both engines and check the blocks for straightness. My money is on the Boss block 7 days a week and twice on Sundays. The trade-off for a stiffer more durable block is adding 83 lbs on the nose of the car is. That's the only thing the sucks about iron. Everything else is "all good".
 

MVD

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with the OP's desire to get this car onto the road course having that heavier Boss block vs the much lighter than stock aluminum block is a not the ideal block.

I hear ya on the heavier engine thing. For a road course and what he plans on doing a Boss block actually makes more sense then an aluminum block. Road racing is much more punishing on an engine over drag racing which only gets thrashed in 10 seconds intervals. After many 1000's of hard miles break down both engines and check the blocks for straightness. My money is on the Boss block 7 days a week and twice on Sundays. The trade-off for a stiffer more durable block is adding 83 lbs on the nose of the car is.

You guys must not be aware FRPP sells an aluminum BOSS 5.0 block. Best of both worlds.
 

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